My Risky Emag

So, I thought that this post would be going into the tech section but I'm so happy it didn't turn out that way.:D
I took a risk on an all stock emag on Cl, the owner was asking $600 (Crazy High) and this was with the knowledge that the lowers did not function.
The problem the owner explained was the screen would turn on and he could cycle through the options fine, but as soon as he plugged in the hall sensor the screen would spaz
out and the marker would not fire. Given my little experience with electronic markers I just assumed that the board was bad and made him an offer ($200) with the thought that I would
be replacing the board. The owner accepted the offer, probably because he had done everything in his power short of replacing the board.
So, the marker showed up today. Upon opening the box I thought that I had bought a brand new emag straight from agd, the marker looks brand new. Here is the best part though, I took the grips off to inspect the board. Board looks clean, next I plug the battery in and the screen comes on with the sensor unplugged. Upon plugging in the sensor, the screen goes blank and when I try to adjust the options the screen flashes a diodes. Next, with the sensor plugged in, I push up on the solenoid plunger allowing some space. Now when I plug in the sensor the solenoid activates, but it would only activate once (not on the next trigger pull). So at this point, I'm stumped (maybe one of you has figured it out by now, but I'm a wee slow). Using Occam's razor to find my next step, I decided to take apart the Hall sensor. I pulled the sensor apart and using a allen key propped the sensor wire up away from its natural position. Now I plug the battery in and the sensor, (Ah sweet progres s) this time the screen stays lit and I can adjust the options with the sensor plugged in. But i'm still somewhat flummoxed:confused:.
Then all the sudden ding, I think well somehow the sensor is getting activated and not being allowed to reset! Like a fool, the first thing that pops into my mind it the the frame must somehow be magnetized from some source (click, click, gears a jamming, IT's aluminum). So in the end it turned out that a simple trigger adjustment to pull the magnet away from the sensor was the solution! And this is the story of my Risky emag, thanks for reading.
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Now you are just showing off, two good CL scores in a week or so :)

It's been a good couple of weeks, scrounging those CL ads. I'm done for awhile though, well unless a clean micro pops up :rolleyes:

I have 2 very clean micro mags that I would trade for your Emag ;) Just saying.. Great find on CL.

Very cool dude. I'm about to go check what your other CL find was..

Edit: Ah the Pittsburgh one, that's right. Nice!

steals on steals on steals.

Nice work

I did the same thing a couple years ago - scored a perfect condition Emag for dirt cheap because "the lowers don't work" and it was estimated that the HES was bad and needed replaced. Turns out that the HES was just installed incorrectly. A 5 minute fix and I had a perfectly working black teflon Emag.

Those scores are nice to come by, but few and far between. Good job on that one!

Good score!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Justus

I did the same thing a couple years ago - scored a perfect condition Emag for dirt cheap because "the lowers don't work" and it was estimated that the HES was bad and needed replaced. Turns out that the HES was just installed incorrectly. A 5 minute fix and I had a perfectly working black teflon Emag.

Those scores are nice to come by, but few and far between. Good job on that one!

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Yeah, they don't come around that often. It's just nice when you buy one with the possibility of expensive fixes only to be surprised by an easy solution

Sk8ermog- pm me some pics of your micromags
Thanks

This happens a lot with emag lowers. The trigger magnet is either installed backwards or too close to the HES. It often results in people thinking that the board is defective, when all it needs is an adjustment.

I offered that person $250 a few weeks ago. I told him that he wasn't going to get anywhere near 6 for it and that he wouldn't have to ship since I'm in yinztown. He said lowest was $550. I told him he should listen, but no, AND I told him I would take a look at it since I have owned a few emags and that they sometimes act up because of something little. What an idiot. I am so glad that you fixed it in 30 minutes and now have a brand new emag for 1/2 price and that joker has cake on his face.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thecroatiansensation

I offered that person $250 a few weeks ago. I told him that he wasn't going to get anywhere near 6 for it and that he wouldn't have to ship since I'm in yinztown. He said lowest was $550. I told him he should listen, but no, AND I told him I would take a look at it since I have owned a few emags and that they sometimes act up because of something little. What an idiot. I am so glad that you fixed it in 30 minutes and now have a brand new emag for 1/2 price and that joker has cake on his face.

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Haha, I wonder what made him change his mind. He didn't even try to barter with me, I was like would you take $200 since there is a good chance I will have to buy a new board. He responded that night with a yes. I thought that I had no chance, just taking a random shot at the moon! Sweet marker, toke it out today and put a few hundred balls through it.

Check and keep an eye on the battery. If the battery is more than 5 years old or if it has been stored in an uncharged state, then there is a good chance that it will have no capacity. If that is the case, have a new pack built. They aren't that expensive.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by athomas

This happens a lot with emag lowers. The trigger magnet is either installed backwards or too close to the HES. It often results in people thinking that the board is defective, when all it needs is an adjustment.

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H.E.S. was ahead of its time and way different than anything else out there - microswitch, optoswitch. Unless you had AO as a resource, it was black magic.

It still is. I'm still trying to pop the cover off the HES so I can change the battery. :)