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Automag RT (classic)
I am new to automags so I appologize in advance.
I realize that classic RTs have air fed through the rail and do not have interchangable parts like ADG other platforms (unless mods are done). I have been seeing on ebay a lot of RT classics selling in the $120-150 range? This make an RT classic $20-50 more then a standard classic mag. Is this correct? Is that a good price?
Thanks.
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Depending on the condition, yes Classic RT's can range anywhere from $120-250. Most sell in the $150-175 range. As mentioned many if the parts are not interchangeable so there is less interest in them.
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^^^ for that reason, you usually buy a classic RT for particular reason. Meaning, you want a classic RT just for what it is as you see it, or you have a plan for custom upgrades. They are a bit heavy with all of their accessory rails, a double trigger, and a fully adjustable bottle reg. With a Luke's vert feed conversion, a lvl 10 bolt, an AGD fiber frame, and a ninja SHP reg, they are quite nice for the price.
There are some that have a chronic leak at the rail that may need to be nursed or replaced (Tuna may have some improved rails left). They are a good deal if you can work with them, but the price reflects the number of people willing to do that.
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the reason i like them is that you are not tempted via interchangeability of parts, to dump more money into an already really fun gun. i did have my vert feed modded though, just cause side feed sucks so hard, esp when you actually plan to play paintball with it.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...pscf39766d.jpg
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Thank you for the responses. I just found it odd that a am/mm will sell for $100ish and an RT classic would sell for $150ish, but the reasons that you all gave make sense. I have owned electric guns most recently and was thinking of getting a mech and I was intrigued by the ROF of the RT over a classic. But at the end of the day all i want is a realiable consistant workhorse. Also, i have concerns about fields not allowing an RT mag because it can not be capped.
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If you keep the input presssure down to in order to minimize the RT effect, most fields will go along with it. That's been my experience anyhow. It's awesome what they are capable of with input pressures cranked up. But, it's obscene in my opinion to attempt to play with in most cases.
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Notice any difference running two line?
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I've used the same classic RT since the late 90s. No real issues ever with reliability or leaks. Its still my main gun today. So far no fields have cared at all about me using it as long as I don't hose the opponent's.
Cockerpunk. You got a side view of that gun with a vert mod? I prefer the classic look of my pf. But keep considering having mine converted. Am always worried bout busting my elbow.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Flatliner333
mine is not a luke's custom, its an ego-style feed. it was a powerfeed body that was filled in, and then a new tube for an ego style feed was welded in.
best side pic i got:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...MDU2LmpwZw.jpg
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I have a few of Luke's vert feeds that I like very much. Having the loader to the side a little lets you look over the marker more. It also has another ball in the stack, so you can run a gravity hopper and still RT 3 and 4 round bursts. It lets you RT and keeps you out of trouble with the refs. You can tuck the loader in with a little roll over and it still feeds great. Actually, the weight to the side a little encourages you to do that in the first place.
Getting an RT directly verted is not a straight forward proposition, and I'm still not sure if I would give up my Luke verts on a new build if I had that option.
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I would definitely agree that Luke's mod is the most sensible way to go. That or track down one of XMT's classic RT bodies. A full vert mod from a side feed mag is a pretty tedious process involving some welding, grinding, hammering, hammering, polishing, and an absolute ton of hammering and polishing. At least that's how it was for me. If you've got the tools, the time and want something a little different, (and maybe a spare body just in case) I'd say go for it- but it really has to be a labour of love. Some machine shops will tackle it, but expect a staggering bill to get it done right.