Just an idea for those old Carbon Fiber Frames

Was just thinking randomly, why has no one made an after market stylish trigger guard, that you could bolt onto a stock frame with a cut guard? Too pricy perhaps?

I mean, you can probably make a pretty nice looking guard, drill 2 horizontal holes in the trigger frame, and bolt it on.

Maybe now, it'd be even easier by using 3d printing.

All those stock frames with ugly cuts, now with a potentially gorgeous (well, maybe gorgeous is taking it too far) looking guard!

Not that I'd need it or anything :D

i think you can make a basic one, and use the standard frame screw hole to hold it on (you would need a slightly longer screw though). people have done that before in the past. i do think that a 3d-printed option might be a good idea though. you would likely have to modify the cut frame more, as people usually don't cut the entire guard off.

Yep, I know people have used thin pieces of aluminum before, but it definitely looked... slapped together

I think most people just replace cut frames.

Number one they are ugly, and nothing you can possibly do to them will look like anything but jury rigged.

And number two, most fields deem guns without trigger guards unsafe and thus not allowed.

Another issue is if your using the frame with a twist lock body/rail you may drill into the twist lock thingy

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Originally Posted by going_home

I think most people just replace cut frames.

Number one they are ugly, and nothing you can possibly do to them will look like anything but jury rigged.

And number two, most fields deem guns without trigger guards unsafe and thus not allowed.

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that's kind of the point of the thread, is a cheap way to add guards to frames that have been cut.

but, he's kind of on point...uncut carbon frames are what, $20 or so? whatever you did get would have to be like, $5 shipped lol. otherwise it's just not really worth it, aesthetics aside.

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Originally Posted by river031403

Another issue is if your using the frame with a twist lock body/rail you may drill into the twist lock thingy

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you would cut the frame with it off the gun. there would just be a hole there, kind of like how the z-grip is. the printed trigger guard (or whatever) would have to have a recess to accommodate the twistlock pin.

Well, I was thinking the attachment would be more like a hinge, so the new guard would fit over the 2 cut ends (or cut a slot into the two ends of the frame to fit the guard). The screws would be parallel to the trigger pin.

And this was meant more for a double trigger than single:D, otherwise yea, singles are cheap as they are lol.

But in the end, due to the size and shape of it, the guard would probably be too brittle if made with plastics.

The fact remains that the AGD CF frames are the lightest around; they just never made them convertible.

I've been running a converted one with a trigger guard that I plug into the TL assembly hole for a couple of years now.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6wLpsksXK...gger_guard.png

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4sbov0jhbR...0/DSCF1233.JPG

Looks a little janky, but it produces the lightest setup around.

You sort of lose the TL pin assembly; I was actually designing a "replacement" that doesn't protrude into the grip hole at all for different reasons. Haven't had time to test it out.

Oh, that doesn't look half bad. I'd personally want the lower end to meet the frame where it was cut though, just to keep the flow of things. (Or maybe make that lower end larger, like a flap going upward to meet that cut end)

Using horizontal pins to hold them in would allow one to keep the TL pin hole, though on the frame above, there wouldn't be enough meat, so you have to use on of the frames where people didn't cut it flush.


Attachment 92372

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BiNumber3

Oh, that doesn't look half bad. I'd personally want the lower end to meet the frame where it was cut though, just to keep the flow of things. (Or maybe make that lower end larger, like a flap going upward to meet that cut end)

Using horizontal pins to hold them in would allow one to keep the TL pin hole, though on the frame above, there wouldn't be enough meat, so you have to use on of the frames where people didn't cut it flush.


Attachment 92372

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that design might not work depending on where the top "pin" goes...remember, the twistlock pin is in that area. you can't really have the pin going through it lol.

Yea lol, it'd have to go below it, not sure how deep the well for the twistlock goes, and how much room there'd be to put the pin.

If the pin cant go all the way through, could probably make the top part of the guard wider, and use short screws on both sides

I like the look of that.

What about tapping the frame for screws and having the new tiger guard attach right where old trigger guard was cut. I think there is enough space there to drill and tap for small screw maybe same size that hold the panels on.

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Originally Posted by GoatBoy

The fact remains that the AGD CF frames are the lightest around; they just never made them convertible.

I've been running a converted one with a trigger guard that I plug into the TL assembly hole for a couple of years now.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6wLpsksXK...gger_guard.png

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4sbov0jhbR...0/DSCF1233.JPG

Looks a little janky, but it produces the lightest setup around.

You sort of lose the TL pin assembly; I was actually designing a "replacement" that doesn't protrude into the grip hole at all for different reasons. Haven't had time to test it out.

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What's a tiger guard ?


http://freewpzelephants.org//wp-cont...iger_caged.jpg

On an AM/MM rail, you could print an integral ring or sleeve to go around the vert ASA. A set screw on the trigger (tiger) side could hold it in place if the grip doesn't. You could do it on an RT rail, but it would need a little more art to it.

I like that trigger guard. Would def grab one if something made it to production.

Hahahaha that's why I don't like posting from my phone. Binumbers, the guard in your mock up. What if the set screw attached to the side of the frame, both at the top where it is against the rail and by the frame panels.

I would think 3d printing would be easy and yeah I would pick up 2. Have at least two frames that need it.

Guys, if you're okay using small screws in this equation, then you just lengthen Goatboy's guard and flatten the top end of it so it goes to the front of the frame. Drill a small hole in it and the guard attaches into the meat of the frame in front of the TL pin. I know some setups have the VASA right against the frame, but not many of them are so tight that you couldn't get 1/8" of plastic in there.

If you want it to curve back up behind the double trigger, then it can attach the same way into the meat of the frame that used to be the lower part of the guard.
I think Goatboy's version is slightly more attractive for the lower mounting point, but to each his own.

Why not use the grip panels to keep it in place? You should be able to 3D print one with a flat section toward the bottom of the guard to slide in between the grip panel and frame, secured by the grip screw, and that curls back toward the trigger at the top such that you can secure it underneath the screw that holds the body in place (which will probably have to be slightly longer)

I don't like the idea of connecting with the original guard for two reasons:

1.) I used this as a trigger stop when I played with a CF frame (install trigger and file down just enough for it to fire)
2.) Your fingers always end up jammed behind the guard on any style frame with this guard I have ever used

Either way, it probably looks better than my JB Weld trigger guard :D

*edit*
GoatBoy, who did you get to mill your valve and how much weight did that shave?

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Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude

that design might not work depending on where the top "pin" goes...remember, the twistlock pin is in that area. you can't really have the pin going through it lol.

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That's what I said lol I ran into that issue when I mounted my grip
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psflkvfiiy.jpg

Oh perfect, another reason why I think having the lower connection attach to the cut end would be more ideal: Grips:D, Rubber and Wood grips would have to be modified if the lower part connected anywhere else.

Also, since it wouldn't really affect the lower part of the cut end of the frame, shouldn't affect its use as a trigger stop.

The valve back isn't milled per se; it's taken from an AA raptor regulator. It saves a relatively large amount of weight. It brings a classic valve within 1oz of an x-valve.

Anyways, back to guard.

The issues are:

1. We're not dealing with a lot of space/material. I'm not the first to do anything like this; there are lots of other examples out there even if they're kind of hard to find.
2. We're not dealing with a lot of *consistency*. I have a few cut frames from other people, and they're all kind of cut slightly differently.

Not only that, I'm not even using mine on a classic rail, so I can't count on things like the foregrip hole.

I really just made thing that was simplest and still worked for my particular setup. I don't use the TL pin, and dragging the lower side back into the grip frame/grip wraparound (had to carve a slot for it) was good enough for me. I still do think reusing the TL pin hole and just making a new TL pin assembly that doesn't go below the rail is the way to go, but with a few caveats.

So trying to "make one with everything" might be asking a bit too much, but the good thing about 3d printing is you can customize your solution.

Best thing to do might be to get a base guard template with correct dimensions into Onshape or some drafting program, and then you guys can customize it to whatever you want.

This is a really cool idea. What if you reused the front frame screw and replaced the bottom the of the TL hole? Basically you could cut the top of the grip "flat" in front of the trigger. (like the cut make on the picture above) It would make the front top of the trigger guard pretty chunky, but still totally functional. I am having a hard time describing this in words. If I can find the time I can try and draw something up in inventor.