my 68 automag don't shoot !

hi
I am mailing you from france so excuse my english !
I had an automag and it was shooting well before I change the trigger, ( I want to build a "sidearm" looking mag !! ) I had a double trigger and I ve put the original single trigger on it and it don t shoot anymore.

I have verified the gas pressure, I have pressure on the trigger

I have checked the rear screw, the on off valve, the power tube ...

when I've got the valve in hands: I put the air on and the pin of the on off valve is pushed and the bolt is going off so it's going right !

how can I Adjust the trigger rod to proper gap, I have screwed 2 turn : nothing, and unscrewed 2 turns : nothing !!

I don t understand !

thanks


luigi

There should be about a credit cards thickness gap between the back of the trigger and the trigger rod. If the trigger rod is resting against the back of the trigger it is too far forward and needs to be turned in. Member "maverick13" (https://www.automags.org/forums/membe...803-maverick13) here on AO is also from France. He may be worth contacting so that he can discuss with you in French.

there should be a small gap (1mm) between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger when it's gassed up. perhaps the gap is currently too large?

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Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude

there should be a small gap (1mm) between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger when it's gassed up. perhaps the gap is currently too large?

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thanks mate


the trigger rod is pushing the trigger there is no gap, I will screw it and i tell you ...

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Originally Posted by luigi

I will screw it and i tell you ...

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Not sure we want the details of that..... :)

aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh

it doesn't work !!


is it possible that the shape of the trigger stops the trigger plate and the bolt ??


I feel f*cked !!

sounds like something is blocking the trigger, have you checked the safety to see if its in properly? if its a stock AGD safety they have a flat spot in the middle and yours may be turned too far one way or the other.

Take the valve out and inspect the sear as you move the trigger. You can determine how far it moves and get a feel for whether it moves far enough to release the bolt and open the on-off.

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Originally Posted by athomas

Take the valve out and inspect the sear as you move the trigger. You can determine how far it moves and get a feel for whether it moves far enough to release the bolt and open the on-off.

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make sure u r putting in the trigger frame right?! maybe u r letting it sit to high not letting the sear b in the right spot in the frame.... i have done this before lol

thanks

I will check that this week end

this story about the sear and the frame could be the problem ! I will re-check that !

and for the safety, I have took it off. so no safety !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by luigi

thanks

i will check that this week end

this story about the sear and the frame could be the problem ! I will re-check that !

And for the safety, i have took it off. So no safety !

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put the safety back on ding dong lol!!!

I have found !



when I ve changed the trigger , I checked the on off valve and I have changed the white oring which was a little bit "old" , I have put a classic black and soft o ring !!!


so yesterday I have put back the old oring and ... MAGIC ... it works !

thats why AGD is putting those "hard white" orings ...


thanks all of you ...

A buna oring would work with air if it was exactly the right size. A buna oring won't work properly with CO2. CO2 causes them to swell. AGD uses the white teflon orings in the classic valve on-off because teflon does not freeze when CO2 passes it, or if liquid gets in the valve.

so my "buna" orings are perhaps the wrong size !!!!!!

probably too soft. the Teflon are a harder substance and don't swell.

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Originally Posted by vintage

probably too soft. the Teflon are a harder substance and don't swell.

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Emags use buna orings for the on-off. They work quite well. You just can't use them for CO2.

Luigi, your buna orings are probably the wrong size as you indicated.