bps problem with my new rt ule NEED HELP PLEASE!

SO my brother bought a tac one years ago and i have always admired it so i finally decided to buy an automag a few weeks ago.
i decided to go with the rt ule because i like the body style a little better than the tac one(i dont ever use rails when i play so i figured i didnt need them)but when i aired it up for the first time to test fire i realized that the rate of fire was way to high for me to use at my fields(both limit me to 12 bps) and the lowest i have managed to get out of the marker is 19 bps.it is very difficult to fire 1 shot at a time.this is my first automag so im not too familiar with it yet and need some help.
im using 2 shims in my lvl 10 bolt kit,with the smallest carrier,the longest spring,1 shim in my ult kit, and have 850 psi through my reg.please help

How lucky are you to obtain a 19bps automag ,for your first one ! No adjusting , just touch the trigger and its 19bps pow LOL
What i do @ the chrono is just hold the trigger down between shots for a sec as to not activate the R/T

Or you could change the ULT out for a bone stock on/off and pin in the X-valve?

You should not be getting this " out of control R/T effect" with a 850psi reg output ? R u sure its 850? because it sound like your running 1100psi to your valve
Is it a Ninja SHP ?

Pull out the on/off pin and see what the length of it is. Use a digital set of calipers. Anything less than .740 and you will Rat greatly, off a 800psi out tank.

Also check the output of your tank. Make sure that it isn't putting out a higher pressure than you suspect.

Now, if you have no clue what i am talking about, nor the tools to check the pin length, then get a vert adapter and use a good HPR. You will have to use that to turn the pressure down so that it won't RT. So basically you are choking out the gun.

Finally, the L10 has NOTHING to do with RoF, or how fast it can shoot. The only thing the L10 does is preventing chopped balls.

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Originally Posted by Nobody

Pull out the on/off pin and see what the length of it is.

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he said he has a ULT.

i would take that valve apart and inspect it; 19 bps with 850 psi input and a ult with one shim? i think something is broken, or you are very wrong about your input pressure! LOL! check the bolt lip and sear edge that catches the bolts for excessive wear too.

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Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude

he said he has a ULT.

i would take that valve apart and inspect it; 19 bps with 850 psi input and a ult with one shim? i think something is broken, or you are very wrong about your input pressure! LOL! check the bolt lip and sear edge that catches the bolts for excessive wear too.

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I don't know about this ,,, I've had some valves that just RT better than others

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Originally Posted by maniacmechanic

I don't know about this ,,, I've had some valves that just RT better than others

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The ULT was designed to prevent runaway using a normal setup. With a standard 850psi input and only 1 shim in the ULT, the trigger pull should be light without any runaway at all. What is the velocity of each shot as it is firing at 19bps. Is there drop-off or is the velocity constant?

Something is out of whack. Check the ULT top orings, bolt lip, and sear to start. If you can get another bottle, try it just to rule out a higher than expected output.

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Originally Posted by NU_METAL

You should not be getting this " out of control R/T effect" with a 850psi reg output ? R u sure its 850? because it sound like your running 1100psi to your valve
Is it a Ninja SHP ?

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its a crossfire reg that i cant seem to find any info on but for one reason or another feel like it was 850.i also tryed a guerilla reg and a ninja(but not a shp)they all had the same result,except for the ninja which leaked uncontrollably through the asa.
i could be wrong about the pressure but i doubt that all three tanks were above 1000 psi.

There are a bunch of different factors that can come into play. Make sure you have all of your orings firstly. Secondly, there could be a max of 6 ult shims in there. Remove 1 at a time and see if that helps. Removing shims effectively lengthens the pin length and should slow the gun down. Thirdly, inspect the bolt lip and sear for excessive wear. It could be that they are not catching.


Also - depending on what type of hardware you have, something else might be causing the issue. Is it an AGD grip frame? Rail? Are the front and read frame screws snug?

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Originally Posted by Nobody

Pull out the on/off pin and see what the length of it is. Use a digital set of calipers. Anything less than .740 and you will Rat greatly, off a 800psi out tank..

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Mine measured .716.could that be the problem?

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Originally Posted by MR.DUCKY

Mine measured .716.could that be the problem?

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Emag pin = .712 so yeah that could be. Get a .740

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Originally Posted by MR.DUCKY

Mine measured .716.could that be the problem?

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are you sure you have a ult on/off? sounds like you have an rt on/off with the wrong length pin!

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Originally Posted by BigEvil

Emag pin = .712 so yeah that could be. Get a .740

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why a .740, and not a .750? isn't .750 the correct length?

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Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude

are you sure you have a ult on/off? sounds like you have an rt on/off with the wrong length pin!


why a .740, and not a .750? isn't .750 the correct length?

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You can go .750 and it should work. You will be much happier with a .740 though :) Every single one of my RTs and my classic mags have RT on/offs with .740 pins

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Originally Posted by MR.DUCKY

Mine measured .716.could that be the problem?

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Are you sure it is a ULT and not just a retro on-off with a shim installed? The shim would make the pin appear to be even shorter than the measured 0.716.

AGD no longer sells a .750 for one thing

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Originally Posted by athomas

Are you sure it is a ULT and not just a retro on-off with a shim installed? The shim would make the pin appear to be even shorter than the measured 0.716.

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THe ULT pin itself is .735 or .740, I forget exactly. If he measured tip-to-tip that doesnt change. The height of the ULT body does if Im not mistaken.

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Originally Posted by vintage

AGD no longer sells a .750 for one thing

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tunamaaaaaaaan!!

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Originally Posted by BigEvil

THe ULT pin itself is .735 or .740, I forget exactly. If he measured tip-to-tip that doesnt change. The height of the ULT body does if Im not mistaken.

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mine measured .740.

Tuna sells a (.747)

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Originally Posted by BigEvil

THe ULT pin itself is .735 or .740, I forget exactly. If he measured tip-to-tip that doesnt change. The height of the ULT body does if Im not mistaken.

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That is correct. Its the body height that changes. If the measured the pin length is 0.716", it is probably a broken pin or wrong assembly.

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Originally Posted by NU_METAL

Tuna sells a (.747)

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can someone post a link i cant find it?

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Originally Posted by MR.DUCKY

can someone post a link i cant find it?

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I can give you the link :
http://www.tunamart.com/index.php?c=39&p=108

BUT,....you will have to E-mail him regardless and tell him which size you need
@ tunaman5@verizon.net

alrite so i bought a new ult pin from tuna (it was a .747)but it didnt help at all.i borrowed my brothers trigger kit ,which i guess is a standard trigger kit,but it didnt help either so i dont think its the trigger kit.im still shooting a steady 19 bps.Anyone have any more suggestions?

I am assuming your sear and bolt are ok, since they were mentioned before and there was no mention of them being bad. Clean the regulator part of the valve and inspect the orings. Replace any that are bad or suspect. The small oring at the back of the regulator pin assembly can cause air to leak through the center of the reg pin assembly, which could cause the bolt to cycle back and forth as if it was rapid firing.

Mr. Ducky if you pull and hold, does it continuously shoot, or will it only shoot one shot?

If it continuously shoots, follow the advice in this thread:
https://www.automags.org/forums/archi.../t-165684.html

If you pull and hold and it shoots just once, then it is a reactivity issue as everyone else has said, and you can ignore my post.

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Originally Posted by ScottyBeans

Mr. Ducky if you pull and hold, does it continuously shoot, or will it only shoot one shot?

If it continuously shoots, follow the advice in this thread:
https://www.automags.org/forums/archi.../t-165684.html

If you pull and hold and it shoots just once, then it is a reactivity issue as everyone else has said, and you can ignore my post.

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followed the link and it turns out my o ring was in the wrong spot,but now my gun wont fire i reset the o ring to the where it was before and still nothing.the marker is getting pressure(the trigger is pressurized)but it will not fire.

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Originally Posted by MR.DUCKY

followed the link and it turns out my o ring was in the wrong spot,but now my gun wont fire i reset the o ring to the where it was before and still nothing.the marker is getting pressure(the trigger is pressurized)but it will not fire.

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The oring referred to in the link is the small oring I was talking about. Now that the gun gets pressure but won't fire, increase the velocity until it does.

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Originally Posted by athomas

The oring referred to in the link is the small oring I was talking about. Now that the gun gets pressure but won't fire, increase the velocity until it does.

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i tried that but it didnt help.it will occasionally fire a single shot after airing it up but then it stops.the trigger has alot of pressure behind it but no matter how hard i pull it will not fire.

Air it up without the bolt. Hold the trigger in place when adding the air source. It shouldn't leak. Then as you release the trigger, it should start to leak out the front. If it does not, then your on-off is not opening properly or your regulator is not allowing air to pass through.

Finally sorted eveything out.after swithching to a larger carrier it and adding 5 more trigger shims it is finally shooting like its supposed to. Thanks for all the help guys:)

Yes, adding the shims will open up the on-off sooner so that it is open when the sear is in the forward position.

Its good to hear that you got it working.