Hi All,
I just bought the barrel adapter and my x valve bolt is sticking in it. Is there a way to get these to work together? Can I sand my bolt down? If so, what is the best technique?
Thanks
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Hi All,
I just bought the barrel adapter and my x valve bolt is sticking in it. Is there a way to get these to work together? Can I sand my bolt down? If so, what is the best technique?
Thanks
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Did you contact Doc?
Yes, on ebay twice. No replyQuote:
Originally Posted by luke
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https://www.automags.org/forums/membe...842-Doc-Nickel
"send private message"
That's really weird. L10 bolt nose swell should be nowhere near Doc's adapter ID.
Definitely see if you can raise him, and definitely don't go modding the bolt when you can get it sorted out from the right end of things.
Then again, do you have calipers? Just out of curiosity, what are the dimensions of each?
You're better off emailing him directly at doc@docsmachine.com you have about a 50-50 chance he'll respond (lol) in my experience he wont answer PM's here so it could be the same thing on ebay.
Lube. Just needed the bolt/ spring cleaned and lubed. Works like a charm now.
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Don't lube the bolt spring. The lube will transfer to the balls and then barrel. It will affect your consistency and accuracy. The bolt needs to work without any lube on the bolt or spring. Something is probably really close and slightly rubbing.
It must be you, cause he answers my pm's... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by luke
His loss not mine. If he bothered to answer my PM's and Emails he would have two pockets full of cash and more in the pipeline.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobody
I've always lightly oil the bolts and never had a problem. Were talking one or two drops then wiped across the whole surface, I think it's to much friction to ignore.Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas
i prefer to oil the outside of my bolts just to keep the springs from turning.
NEVER oil the outside of the bolt or spring. They will never wear out do to friction. They WILL hang up and the spring will break if you lube them.
Wow, I've heard that in all these years. From an engineering stand point I'm curious how it causes the bolt to hang up?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunaman
Try 0 lvl10 shims and the smallest spring. That's my twist lock go-to set up. I suspect the bolt is hanging up on the detents. If this doesn't work and there are two, try using only one and see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by wjesse
Most lubes will actually gum up, causing the spring to hangQuote:
Originally Posted by luke
I never experienced that because I rarely used my mags more than once or twice without tearing them down and cleaning them. Perhaps over-kill but I was obsessed with keeping them clean and fresh. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Tunaman
There are 2 strategies regarding lubrication:
- The sane person's strategy -- just enough lubrication to get the job done
- The typical paintballer's strategy -- OMG WHEEEEEEEEEE I CAN FIT THE ENTIRE TUBE OF LUBE ON THE BOLT AND SPRING!!!
(Imagine what happens when said paintballer gets his hands on sandpaper. Or Loctite.)
Whenever you have metal-on-metal movement, you want at least some thin interface layer of oil between them.
I've run my mags for months with oil on the bolt spring without any problems (reliability or accuracy), but then again, I'm not in the second category.
Back to the topic at hand: does the bolt get stuck in the adapter when both are out of the marker?
Does your body have any weird damage or obstruction in it that would make the adapter sit kind of funny?
If you're going to sand something, I'd say sand the adapter.
Never heard number 2 before.
I always just put some drops in the asa and dry fire a few times.
Oil sprays out the barrel, so if thats happening the bolt is getting oiled.
;)
I thought I read somewhere that you may need to cut the detent down for clearance.
Lmao at #2. Sadly there is some truth to that. I know in my Geo manual I am supposed to lightly grease the bolt. And to this day I've not had any accuracy issues following that guideline with the Geo or with my Mags. There is a difference in a light film of oil or grease as apposed to packing it in there like on an old shocker.
There isn't anything on the bolt or spring that needs to be oiled. The only contact point for the spring on the bolt is at the back where it snaps in place. The large end of the bolt actually protrudes into the breach area and is ahead of the end of the spring. The middle part of the bolt is narrower so it doesn't make contact with the spring normally anyway, plus as the spring compacts, it gets larger in diameter reducing contact even further. The bolt also doesn't need any lubrication except for the inner oring. It gets lubrication from the oil that goes through the gun when you add it to the ASA. The bolt shouldn't rub on the outside anywhere, so it shouldn't need lubrication. I have seen some minor rubs, but its so minor that additional lubrication wouldn't change anything. Any major rubbing should be addressed by fixing that issue rather than adding lubrication to overcome any friction.
As mentioned, lubrication in areas exposed to dirt or grime buildup can actually cause issues. Oil or grease makes a great way to hold onto dirt, instead of it just falling off. A buildup of grime reduces the clearances and tightens things up, maybe just a bit too much sometimes.
I picked up a Vibe once from Craigslist to tinker with.
I swear when I pulled the bolt out, there was more lube than actual bolt in there.
OK, so this is really hard to photograph.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E...w/IMG_0577.JPG
You see the axial direction scratches? That's from the spring. Those are the more obvious ones.
In fact if you look over any bolt you will see a particular wear pattern which looks like polished rings around the bolt. I'm pretty sure this is from the spring. As it compresses, the spring probably deforms or moves slightly because it's not an exact fit either around the bolt or mating up against the cup in the body.
Sure, oil in there will pick up dirt and stuff, but be realistic.
I just checked some of my level 10 bolts and they too have the marks that coincide with a spring at rest in the body, but none that coincide with a compressed spring when the bolt is fully forward. The bolt I looked at has probably 100000 shots on it. I suspect if I dug out my level 7 bolts, they would show the same.
If you place a bolt spring on a bolt, there can be some really close contact situations. Once the bolt and valve gets put into the body, that effect gets reduced. Sure, there might still be some misalignment, but the amount of actual side force of the spring on the bolt would be really small. I compressed the spring on the bolt and checked for some rubbing. It was close but the amount of friction was almost none existent because of the expansion of the diameter. I suspect some of the axial scratches are caused when the bolt/valve is put into and removed from the body rather than during actual game use. Even if it was game use, the amount of scratching is so small, it really isn't an issue. If it was an issue, there would be much more wear on the bolt and especially on the spring.
I was being general in suggesting that oil picks up dirt. I'm not sure it would pick up enough dirt to cause an issue in a mag unless you got into a really dusty situation and never cleaned your mag for a while. It could happen in some instances, but most mag users generally clean often enough that it shouldn't be an issue. I have never added oil to any of my mag bolts or springs just because of the oil transfer it might cause. I might wipe the springs down with oil for protection, but none of them go onto my mags without being wiped clean.