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Looking to pickup a couple used, spare "level 7" Automags for walk-on users on my private field and would like to know some of the easiest ways to spot/identify a level 7 when I'm searching ebay and craigslist, etc? Incidentally, I'm the original owner of a level 7 from the 90's so any tips (no matter how detailed) can be easily referenced - Thanks!
HA!... well take out the valve and inspect it. ~shrugs~
Yes, that would seem the most obvious now wouldn't it, but when dealing with ebay and craigslist sellers (etc...) it's never quite that easy... was hoping there might be a specific set of serial numbers (etc) which would make things easier... I run across A LOT of sellers who do not have the capability to take (quality) photos, nor have the slightest clue behind what they are selling (ie: not the original owners and selling for friends, family member ((+ 1995 was quite a long time ago)) etc...). And don't even get me started on the particular valve questions when asking folks to explain the exact type of valve that's in a particular AM that I'm interested in lol Now if only "level 7's" came with a "level 7" laser etched stamp ... I could cut to the chase but that's obviously not an option. If anyone has any additional tips/tricks... I would really appreciate it!
Hmm (perhaps I should ask) since I haven't played since the mid 1990's and my automag is currently in storage... 1) Did all level 7's come with the exact same valve design or were there changes to the valve over the level 7 production run? 2) Does level 7 refer strictly to valve design or also the name etched into the stainless steel valve body? In my search for purchasing a couple more vintage level 7's ... I want to make sure I get the same exact Automags, with the same exact valves as my original since I really like this particular Automag and know it so well (1990's learning curve aside) plus this would help simplify maintenance and parts when loaning the markers out to family and friends.
:derp:
Nope. The original level7 designation was not the bolt. It had to do with the variation design level on the valve. The power tubes were soldered on. And at one time they came with a power tube spring instead of spacer. Ect. My 94-96 era one had a spring. But it had the soldered tip. For what your looking for if the valve says classic your good to go as long as it isn't a field rental model. If it says 68automag on the valve you are most likely still good. I'm guessing the old old ones are few and far between on showing up for sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealthpanda
^ Good to know. Heh.
Thanks,
Jason
They are pretty much all level 7 valves. Very few are older level 5 or 6 valves that haven't been converted.
Hey. Out of curiosity. Other than the power tube soldering. What were the differences in the other variations? Didn't one have a shorter or longer power tube or something? Maybe I'm just delusional from lack of sleep.Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas
Info from one Jason to anotherQuote:
Originally Posted by Stealthpanda
There were several differences from level 5 to level 6 to level 7 valves. There were 3 different level 5 mags, 3 different level 6 mags, and then the level 7 that we know now. Two of the level 5 valves were different. The last level 5 valve had a drilled and extended powertube vs the first and second versions of the level 5 valve. Level 5 mags used 2 piece barrels (the breach was separate from the twist lock removable part. The level 6 mags had a larger air chamber, used a drop in sear, and used a 1 piece barrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdeath1k
Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas
Cool. In that case I'd love to find detailed pictures of the various valve designed.