Does anybody make these? I'd like a short back cap for a Classic valve, with a 1/8" NPT hole out the back for a gauge. Or something.
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Does anybody make these? I'd like a short back cap for a Classic valve, with a 1/8" NPT hole out the back for a gauge. Or something.
Deus Machina on MCB makes them, but he has been kinda MIA for a little. Try PMing him, he may have some extras left in stock. I actually have two, but currently am using both of them. Someone else on here had said they could make them at one point, but I lost track of who it was.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoatBoy
Currently, myself and a couple of others are trying to get him to make us some caps for Xvalves, but so far he has not delivered to anyone.
It would be nice if he made something that screwed into the same threads that the regulator did. If you could just loctite it down it would be super simple.
He made me one. I will post a pic.
Nobody is biting on my thread over here. Is it that bad of an idea?
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=261126
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/100_9565.jpg
It does? From what I get, the problem with the one for an X is there are releif vents that you have to plug. I asked about this once and no one replied.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnage reigns
I make these, and they thread right in in place of the regulator half.
This does mean that you need to run a regulator on-tank or as a foregrip.
The Classic caps are easy. The X-valve ones have proven to be a significant pain, and I will not be making any for anyone that has not yet contacted me until I can get my own X-valve to experiment with. Life and stress interrupt, and my current customers have been exceedingly patient so far. I would hate to take in any more work and delay them any more.
From what I can tell, it's because the X-valve on-off is not meant to flow very well from the top, and my current design plugs the rear input completely. I will need to use a modified on/off assembly and essentially convert it to an aluminum Classic, or drill the plug through like the original reg pin, and trust that the bolt resets before the pressure can pass through.
That appears to be the way the original works, and if so, it's merely a matter of a test and a box of O-rings before I can start cranking those out.
So are you saying if I want a capped xvalve I have to lose the RT? I'm not a fan of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deus Machina
Well, I'm not sure it would loose that completely. And I think there's a way I could keep it, to an extent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnage reigns
The problem with this is that the original let air in at 800 PSI. The valve dumps, and you get full pressure up until the regulator cuts it off again--a full-pressure burst forces the pin back down.
With it already regulated, I'm not all that sure how well the RT would work before the mod anyway...
Absolutely, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnage reigns
The reactivity comes from the air source. Pre-x-valve, the gas in ranges from 800 psi to potentially 4500 psi. That pressure is what slams the trigger back. If you remove the x-valve regulator, it will have to be regulated before before entering the valve. That pressure will be somewhere closer to 500 psi. See how this works?
Yes, that's the issue.
I don't think it's so much the issue of the design--or the modification to it--it's a problem with the pressure. A sudden drop in pressure on one side and blast of 900PSI or so on the other pushes the on/off pin pretty good. Regulating it down to, say, 500 PSI on about .012 square inch doesn't apply much shove down.
How would this valve work as an electric.
I would like one or two of these myself.
With a cap, the valve becomes an air chamber only. All air entering the chamber via the on-off area is low pressure. Therefore, it is imperative that the lines feeding from the regulator to the chamber don't have any unnecessary flow restrictions and that the regulator itself is a high flow design.