"Classic Valve and ULT trigger don't mix"... my a**(video)

[Plazmic]

I probably can. PM me.

[Plazmic]

No problem. We're going to find a way to shrink the file a bit, though.

[Bad_Dog]

who wouldnt want to host a 45MB file ???


just kidding

[Bad_Dog]

....FIILM....


you'll see....

[danheneise]

so would you guys, that have a ult'ed classic, suggest getting a ult? btw what's the max amount of shims you can have in before it sticks out of the valve too much?i have 3 extra L10 shims still and the L10 worked perfectly the other weekend, first time experiencing NO CHOPS all day , i'm just debating whether i should buy one of these kits or procede with converting my black dragun to a closed bolt blow back

[Bad_Dog]

well, what I can tell you is that if I didnt have the ULT in my classic; I probably would have bought an x-valve... and now I see no need for it

If someone were to ask me on the street if they should get the ULT for thier classic valve, I'd say yes

but to be on the safe side, order an extra lvl10 shim or too..

[the electrician]

I think it works great.
with a little bit of getting used to, I imagine I could get more than 9 bps. these other guys are getting 11 bps. that's great for a mechanical gun and about all your gonna get with a revvy. the trigger pull is much, much lighter. I recommend it, if you're happy getting that kinda of performance(11 bps) out of it.

I will say, make sure your sear is not too awful worn. my friends old classic has been shot so many times, that the sear was worn to the point that it didn't want to return properly. so just check it, if you know it's old.

[silentdeath55]

I agree with the other guys. The ULT is a great upgrade, but only if you take the time to tune it properly.

Like Bad_Dog said, if someone were to ask me on the street I'd have to say yes. And with a price of less than $50, it's pretty cheap too.

[AGDlover]

it says i can't view it

[silentdeath55]

It works fine for me. Try right clicking and saving the target, that may work. otherwise idk.

[warfrik]

Ok, here is my thing. I have a classic valve / lvl 10. I just ordered a booyaah frame but I haven't install it. Would a ult be an ideal way to go with a booyaah frame?

[Plazmic]

Is that a Booyah electronic? In that case, no, it's not necessary.

[warfrik]

Yes it it electronic but the selenoid s not powerful(using one 9.6V battery) enough to push the sear. I had to connect two 9v battery in series for the frame to work because I think that the stock on/off of the classic valve is too stiff, that's why I was think of getting a ult but I'm not sure if its a good idea. Any suggestions?

[Plazmic]

WEll, in that case it might be just what you need. I'm afraid I can't give you a definite on that, though.

[Cool fool!]

that iz cool!

[OysterBoy]

Hey, I have 200.00 CDN and Im getting a level 10 and ULT for my classic.

Anyone have any words of advice for me? Thanks.

[danheneise]

Well, i guess i should post an update now that i have a ULT in my classic.

Right now i have 4 L10, and 5 ULT shims in the ULT on/off, and man it rips, now since i nearly used up all my L10 shims, that only leaves me with 1 shim for the L10. So until i get more shims for the LTen i will chuff.

The chuffing now only happens excessively if i'm running low on air, i have only tested it with CO2 since i can get CO2 dirt cheap here compared to N2. the 19th of june will be my first time out playing with it, and using compressed air with it so i will be posting to tell if it opperates any differently. As i stated before it only really chufs a lot with low air, this also goes for when i'm freezing the crap outta the valve with the co2. With a warm valve and full co2, i can easily walk it and mabye only chuff 1-2 times within 15 shots which isn't bad for only having 1 shim in the L10.

I don't know where i posted it before but i will quote close to what i have said before

"Worth the $45 from Roguefactor? Absolutly"
"Will I be buying an xvalve? Absolutly Not !!! "

BTW: hopefull i can get a video up soon, i don't know if verizon's server will let me do it but i will see. It stinks when i can't even break through my own firewall to host images and movies from my linux box

[stevewagner89]

Any one want to donate some level 10 shims to me so i can get my ult working? If your really generous and would like to please pm me Thanks.

[AGDlover]

i used all my shims that came with the lvl10 and the ULT and i'm still short strokeing so i ordered some more shims and a new sear and we'll see what happenes

[GordDesigns]

OK my turn for help.

lvl10 in and working but the ULT trigger will not fire, at all.

Followed all this thread used all your ideas and no dice wont fire.

Background: 68classic # CF05157 in ULE vertical feed body with an Intelaframe.

Problem is that any more than 4 shims and the valve wont go back in the body?????

ANY suggestions.

[NoForts4Me]

OK, I'm not an expert by any means, but I'll give it a stab. Maybe Bad_Dog will step in and help out. My setup works well most of the time, but is quirky. The last time I played the bolt stuck twice (out of 1200 rounds). The time before, it ran perfect. It ALWAYS sticks when my CO2 tank gets low...I know I'm out of air when it does this. Anywho...

Sniper king: How many shims are you running now? More shims may help, post when you've tried them. Also, trigger stops can help short-stroking. I think Bad_Dog has a post on this somewhere. I'm going to do this in the next few weeks.

GordDesigns: You should be able to get way more than 4 ULT shims in there. See the pictures in the previous posts. Make sure you've removed the o-rings from the old on/off. I tried about 4 ULT shims once, and mine wouldn't fire either.

Also, I've noticed some interplay between the ULE Trigger and the LvL 10. If I change the on/off I'm using, I have to re-tune the LvL 10. You all might try different shim and spring configurations with the LvL 10 as well.

Keep posting on how things are going. Hope I helped some.

Later,
NoForts

[GordDesigns]

OK thanks for the clarification of the insalltion of ULT. The little sheet says nothing about removeing the original o-rings before you put in the new on/off.
So what I gather from most of the posts now. Is that the shim stack should almost equal the thickness of the o-rings that were there.
Most guys have got all the ULT shims and three or four LVL10 shims.
So that means about 65 thousands of an inch thick.
If this is the case I will make a .05 shim and use the rest for tuning.
Does this sound right.
Thanks for the help.
Simple thing but without it no hope of getting it right.
Has anyone contacted AGD to tell them these instructions need rewriting.

[silentdeath55]

If I remember correctly, the sheet says to remove the old on/off including the o-rings. I could be wrong, but the old on/off assembly includes the o-rings. You will need all of the ULT shims, and a few LVL 10 shims to make it work properly. If you don't have any extra, you should order more, don't try and make them. Good luck!

P.S. Bad_Dog is in Canada on a fishing trip, so he's not here to help. So you're stuck with me

[GordDesigns]

Thanks and making the shim is a piece of cake. I biuld plastic injection molds for a living and a .05 shim is quite thick if you know what I mean.
Thanks for all the good intensions though.

Gord

[silentdeath55]

Oh, well if that what you do for a living, than go for it. I just figured some kid might try and mess with his mag by making his own shim, but your not a kid.

If they work well and are cheap to make, you should try and sell them here on AO.

[stevewagner89]

Do you need the tiny black o-rong that comes with the ult and if so where does it go? Thanks.

-Steve

[silentdeath55]

If I remember correctly, that is an extra o-ring that can be used if the one on the ULT gets lost or broken. I could be wrong, but thats what I remember.

[GordDesigns]

For SILENTDEATH55 thanks for the idea.
Do you think Tom K. would want to buy some off me if I make a big batch?
And another thing I noticed when I took the on/off appart after the first test shooting, the small white o-ring on the top of the on/off had unseated itself. I did some measuring and think that the o-ring is being pushed into the drilled hole in the valve. I am going to make a quick fix with some .005 shim stock and a puntched hole for the pin clearance.
Let you know what happens.
And thanks again the ULT is working fine, and the pull is very light. I think I can keep up to my buddys cocker. ( but speed is'nt everything I can still up a ball on him from further away)

[silentdeath55]

I dont think TK would buy any off of you, but other AO'ers might. The same thing happened to the little o-ring on my ULT. I dont think it's going into the little hole in the valve, but I think it is being loosened out by the rapid flow of air past it. Then when you remove the ULT it just falls out.

[AGDlover]

ok i put 1 more shim in and a trigger stop set up so well see how things go on thursday