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Thread: Pneumatic Trigger Frame v2.0 !!!!!!

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghost068
    phish, undescriptive: ill send the file this afternoon.

    I was thinking, insted of choping the crap out of your frame, couldn't you just use a longer drill bit? Drill right through the trigger guard then into the frame body? The bit might be too fragile for anyone to make it that long, I dont know, just a thought.
    Thanks!

    the drill bit is too fragile and making the bit long enough to go thru the trigger guard AND the frame would guarantee the bit breaking.....

    ps...updated the parts list in my first pnuematic thread to include MSV-1

  2. #32
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    Phish, what's the efficiency like with this one compared to the first one you tried?

    if you use a ULT, is it pretty good?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocken
    so its now 10 megs just need someone to host it
    hope it helps

    save some bandwidth

    What are your settings? My PDF is less than 5.

    If I PDF'd the 1M version it'll probably be tiny.
    Last edited by SlartyBartFast; 04-21-2005 at 12:42 PM.

  4. #34
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    Maggot6: You'd be amazed what you can do with a couple good files

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by undescriptive
    Phish, what's the efficiency like with this one compared to the first one you tried?

    if you use a ULT, is it pretty good?

    i haven't field tested this mod yet but i will soon. Right now i know it is more efficient cuz of the lower operating pressures thanks to the ULT, but how more efficent i dont know yet. The ULT seems to perform better than anticipated. i haven't experienced any shoot down like i thought i would. It seems the operating pressures of the pnumatic trigger is around 40-50 psi.....but if you go stock on/off, i don't think you will be wasting that much air, operating pressures for stock is around 70-80psi......either way you go, you cant loose....i got one of each

  6. #36
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    i downloaded both files and both are corrupted or something. can someone try emailing it to me? or putting it in some other format like pdf or something? id be very grateful.

    that is the cleanest pneutrig mod ever. kudos.

    my email btw is dyeguy65@gmail.com
    Last edited by dyeguy65; 04-21-2005 at 09:03 PM.

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  7. #37
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    NEW Versions of THE GUIDE

    i posted new SMALLER versions of THE GUIDE for all. Look in the #1 post, the links are there. There is a PDF and DOC version. Choose the one that suites you. Thank you Ghost068 for providing these smaller versions!

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by phishphen


    txaggie: im confused....can you explain a little more?
    why did you drill a new hole to bring air into the ram, instead of widening the frame out a bit more(im assuming this rear hole is the air inlet for this thing). after looking at it i dont know if it would have worked with the smav-3(i dont have one of the three ways yall are using.....i ordered the smav-3 before this realy got rolling to tinker with and am now going to electrify mine instead of mech...)

  9. #39
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    ...

    txaggie: I drilled a new hole in the MPA-3 becuase, overall, it would mean less milling/grinding of the frame. I could have used the original hole in the back of the MPA-3, but i wanted to make a pneumatic version that required as little milling/grinding as possible. So making a new hole and placing the QEV like i did helped accomplish that goal. But remember, you can do whatever you want with this mod. If you feel that using the existing hole in back of the MPA-3 is good, do it. Be sure to share your versions of this mod with us....

  10. #40
    yeah i had already started milling on my frame so i just continued the process, but what you di is probably no more work than what ive done...

  11. #41
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    AMENDMENT to THE GUIDE

    ok, i've done some tweeking of this mod and here are the results...

    Taking the spring out of the MSV-1 proved to be BAD for me. 3 reasons why:
    1) I almost jacked the valve trying to unscrew the back. This screw is on TIGHT and you better have the RIGHT screwdriver and a well anchored VISE.
    2) without the spring i noticed the valve wasn't sealing properly between the intake and exhaust ports. Every 3rd shot resulted in the valve getting stuck and another fire was required to seal the valve
    3) I hardly noticed any difference in trigger force with the spring out vs spring in.

    one BIG positive thing came out of this tweek,
    my ROF (rate of fire)/ability to walk DRAMATICALLY increased when i backed out the trigger setscrews a little, meaning the trigger was a bit sloppy/had some play in it. Why this happens IDK, but set the trigger so that the forward movement is a little more than valve pin movement and set the backward movement a little more back than required to activate the valve.....ADD THIS PROCEDURE TO STEP 8 of "The Guide".......
    Last edited by phishphen; 04-23-2005 at 12:06 PM.

  12. #42
    can anyone, hopefully someone with the parts, give me the dimensions of each piece involved? Dimensions being height, width, thickness, and depth? If someone also has the measurements for a y-grip, including what the measurements inside the frame are as well as how thick the frame is, that'd be so great.

    REasoning being I'll be converting a y-grip with this mod, and I'm pretty sure it has just as much room, maybe more if im not mistaken since its tilted forward, making it so I can lay the microrock in easier. If i can get the measurements I'll start planning it during classtime haha and then when I get the parts, (2 months or more cuza APs and SAT IIs,) I'll post what I did if anyone cares.

  13. #43
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    ...

    Shadow: Tell DuckHunt to sit down and finish his mod
    i think he's doin the pneumatic mod in a y-grip too. And when he finishes, tell him to post pictures and all. You can then see how he did it and you can mimic it

    To Everyone: i compared both of my versions of the pneumatic triggers and this is the results...
    - Version 2.0 is much easier to walk AND the trigger feels lighter when there is "slop" in the trigger (read previous post for specifics) verses Version 1.0 which is a little harder to walk and little heavier trigger
    Last edited by phishphen; 04-23-2005 at 12:05 PM. Reason: added comparison between v2.0 and v1.0

  14. #44
    Is it possible to do this to a stock trigger frame. (a single trigger carbon fiber). If not do you guys know of anywhere in canada where one can get a rpg vert?

  15. #45
    no space inside the carbon fiber frame, look at it

    its all filled up, plus its smaller. That and it almost requires a double trigger for that insanely short trigger pull.

    You can probably buy it from their website and pay a lil extra shipping. Go to themagsmith.com

  16. #46
    if he wont ship to canada, ill help you out getting it shipped there(pm me and ill talk to you if you need help)


    hey pish heres an interesting idea, what do you think about some two ton epoxy being used to hold the mpa-3 in(im not talking about your aplication in specific.....im looking at ideas for mine). i was thinking about applying it to the top were i could easily dremel it off. im nto realy interested in being able to remove it(except if absolutly necessary). just a thought, what do you think

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by txaggie08
    if he wont ship to canada, ill help you out getting it shipped there(pm me and ill talk to you if you need help)


    hey pish heres an interesting idea, what do you think about some two ton epoxy being used to hold the mpa-3 in(im not talking about your aplication in specific.....im looking at ideas for mine). i was thinking about applying it to the top were i could easily dremel it off. im nto realy interested in being able to remove it(except if absolutly necessary). just a thought, what do you think
    i thought about epoxying it too......i just was unsure how well it would hold up under all the stress........if it can hold up, it would definitly make this mod easier.....let us know what you find out....

  18. #48
    hmmmm i think im gonna try it. now i just have to build a plunger for it so i can stick it in place.

  19. #49
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    Stupid question,but where did you get a derlin plunger?

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by jame4091
    Stupid question,but where did you get a derlin plunger?
    it comes with the MPA-3....

  21. #51
    hey phish you have a pm.....
    Last edited by txaggie08; 04-25-2005 at 01:37 AM.

  22. #52
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    Is anyone putting together parts kits? I might if i see enought intrest.

  23. #53
    /has interest

    mostly in the nuts and screws and crap, its hard for me to collect that stuff and get the right ones, the big major parts i can find myself

  24. #54
    so question...what about us that have an adjustable tank ...i have the oldschool air america armaggedon tank how would i fit the LPR to that?


    Oh you got an anti chop bolt? Put your toungue in there and prove it to me.


    feeeeeeeeeeeeeeeddback

  25. #55
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    that should be via a T fitting...

  26. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by eNder159
    so question...what about us that have an adjustable tank ...i have the oldschool air america armaggedon tank how would i fit the LPR to that?
    t fitting into a vert asa with the thing sticking down like a front handle. or you could drill and tap the asa for a front block look. getting it in the handle.....hmm i dunno

  27. #57
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    Could the RPG Viperblade trigger be used for this mod?
    Automag RT Pro
    ULE Body
    RT Valve w/ LvL 10
    AM/MM Rail
    Intelliframe
    Custom Products Matrix barrel
    CP small drop
    Black

  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_1791
    Could the RPG Viperblade trigger be used for this mod?
    yes it can....

  29. #59
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    Cool. I wasn't sure because the Viperblade bends out where the trigger pin is, but I guess that's just because your trigger pin is lower than normal.

  30. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_1791
    Cool. I wasn't sure because the Viperblade bends out where the trigger pin is, but I guess that's just because your trigger pin is lower than normal.

    you would just trim the pin/nail to suit your needs....you can trim the pin so that the trigger sits close to the frame or far away from it, you choose.....

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