E/Xmag PredII/Mini Morlock install/guide

[flyingpootang]

*****THIS GUIDE IS FOR REFERANCE ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED BY ANYONE WHO DOSE NOT UDERSTAND HOW TO INSTALL/WIRE A PRED II BOARD. I WILL NOT ANSWER ANY DUMB QUESTIONS, SO PLEASE DON'T ASK . THIS IS HOW I WIRED MY OWN XMAG AND IF YOU DIDN'T GET AT LEAST 90% OF WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT HAVE SOMEONE ELSE INSTALL IT FOR YOU***********************


I just completed an X and it rips pretty good . I thought i'd share the info for those who choose to try and do it on their own, but be warned if you screw it up it's your bad ......

To start off the Pred II and the Mini Morlock are the same boards and are both made by
KM2 exarin.com. The Pred II are programed with psp, nxl, ramp etc by tagsportz.com. Although eyes are included I did not use them because the lvl 10 will more than likely never chop.

Now for the install:

(1) HES: The Hall Effect Sensor has 3 wires red, black, & yellow. The red is the postive side of the trigger switch. The black is the negative side of the trigger switch and the yellow is the signal side of the switch.

(EDIT) On some HES the red wire is the signal and the yellow wire is the positive.

How I verified the HES wire: Remove the HES connector from the AGD board and test each pin starting from the top.

Black wire: No voltage = trigger -
Yellow wire: @ 5volts at idle but drops off to 0volts when the trigger is pulled.
Red wire: Constant @ 5volts (dosen't drop) when the trigger is pulled = trigger +
(see above edit)


(2) The battery: Although 18v the board is made to handle it and can be connected directly to the positive portion of the battery. You can split the positive wire and attach a switch or use the AGD battery saver pin. The negative is connected to the frame of the marker. I used the origanal grounding point/board mount screw for the ground.

(3) Solenoid: The polarity has to be correct to avoid trigger bounce. To verify this use a compass under the noid with either west or east closest to it. When the trigger is pulled the compass should point to south.

(4) Intelli feed/Warpfeed: The boards have another set of (2) wires for a second solenoid or Warp/Intelli feed system. I haven't used them, but I would assume that if they where connected incorrectly your feed would'nt work or turn in reverse, but fear not a simple switch of the wires should cure the problem.

Now for the wiring codes: (WARNING I SUGGEST YOU VERIFY THESE FOR YOUR SELF AGAINST THE PRED II MANUAL AND ANY AGD WIRE GUIDE FOR YOUR MARKER. IT MAY DIFFER)

PRED II................................................ ................................MY XMAG

(Trigger +) #12 Grey.............................................. ...............(HES + trigger) Red
(Trigger -) #11 Black............................................. ...............(HES - trigger) Black
(Emmiter +) #4 Orange............................................ ........(HES signal trigger) Yellow
(Solenoid 1) #7 Red............................................... .................(Sol) White
(Solenoid 1) #8 Blue.............................................. .................(Sol) White
(Pos batt +) #10 Red............................................... ...............(Batt) Red
(Neg batt -) #9 Black............................................. .........(grnd/board mount screw)


Pred II manual from Tagsportz

Predator-Morlock
Operation, Functionality and Troubleshooting
LED:
Solid - ball in breech Blinking slow - breech clear Blinking fast - eyes disabled
Dip Switches:
Either or both switches in the ON position activates the tournament lock. You will not be able to go into program mode
unless BOTH switches are off.
Activation:
Switch on the power switch located on the gun
Eye Operation:
You can turn your eyes on and off by holding the trigger down for 2 seconds.
Wiring harness - Front, Writing Down (HKS) (wires pointing away)
1 = White (eye +5 volts at 150ma max) short lead
2 = Green (eye signal)
3 = Black (emitter -) short lead
4 = Orange (emitter +)
5 = Red (solenoid 2)
6 = Yellow (solenoid 2)
7 = Red (solenoid 1)
8 = Blue (solenoid 1)
9 = Black (battery -)
10 = Red (battery +)
11 = Black (trig -)
12 = Grey (trig +)
Example for programming your Predator:
1. Your tournament LOCK must be off if your board has that feature. We strongly suggest you turn your
tournament lock on while playing.
2. Pull and hold the trigger then turn the gun on by using the button on the back of the gun
3. Release trigger
4. You are now in the REGISTER select area
5. Pull trigger the appropriate number of times to go to register. Example: 2 pulls will take you to the MROF
register (register 2)
6. LED will flash the current setting of the register you selected
7. You are now in MODE select area
8. You can now pull the trigger to insert the new setting.
9. The LED will flash 2 times to indicate it has taken the new setting
10. You are now back in the REGISTER select area
11. You can now move to a new register by simple pulling the trigger the appropriate number of times or turn the
gun off and back on to use the new settings
NOTE: If you select Register 1, you are expected to enter a fire mode, again in trigger clicks. After you have made a
selection, the light will flash and remain on. The gun is now prepared to fire. We suggest you make the fire mode the last
register you select as the board will reboot after it has been selected.
Programming advanced firing mode example on Predator board:
Player wishes his or her marker to ramp once they reach 6 bps but NOT start ramping until they have fired 10 shots.
1. Go into programming mode by turning your board on while holding the trigger back
2. LED will flash once to indicate you are in program mode
3. Release the trigger
4. Pull trigger 5 times to enter the RAMPING ROF register (register 5)
5. LED will flash the current setting
6. Pull the trigger 6 times to set this register to 6bps
7. LED will flash 2 times to indicate it took the new setting
8. Pull trigger 6 times to enter the RAMPING SHOT COUNT register (register 6)
9. LED will flash the current setting
10. Pull the trigger 10 times to indicate you wish the ramping to start after you have fired 10 shots
11. LED will flash 2 times to indicate it took the new setting.
12. Pull trigger 1 time to enter the FIRING MODE register
13. LED will flash the current setting
14. Pull trigger 6 times to enter FAST RAMPING mode
15. LED will flash 2 times to indicate that it took the new setting AND the gun will reboot and be ready to fire. The
gun reboots automatically after you set register 1. This does not happen after any of the other registers.
5.0 Registers
Register Default Description
1
Firing Mode:
1. Semi
2. Auto Response
3. Full Auto
4. Smooth Ramp (debounce slowly drops)
5. Assisted Ramp (turbo style ramping where it adds shots based on the rate of fire.
Slower trigger pulls add less shots. Faster trigger pulls will add more shots.
6. Fast Ramping (Shots are added as soon as you reach the settings in register 5 and 6)
7. Triplet Shot Ramping (fires 3 shots every time the trigger is pulled. This speeds up
the faster you pull the trigger)
8. PSP1 (3 shots semi then fast ramping) (no need to set register 6 as this feature is built
in. However, you can set the AFA ROF in register 5)
9. PSP2 (3 shots semi then super-fast ramping) (no need to set register 6 as this feature
is built in. However, you can set the AFA ROF in register 5)
10. PSP3 w/Triple Shot ramping (3 shots semi then fires 3 shots every trigger pull) (no need
to set register 6 as this feature is built in. However, you can set the AFA ROF in register
5)
11. NXL (3 shots then full auto)
12. Breakout (Full Auto then fast ramping. Settings in registers 5/6 are honored)
13. OMFG (cant really explain it but it is amazing) WARNING: Don’t stand behind your own
players when using this one.
14. NXL Breakout First shot is full auto then 3 shots semi then full auto again. We have no
idea why we do this stuff
2
Rate of Fire: This is the GLOBAL rate of fire. This controls the MROF in all modes with the eye
on. IF register 11 is set to 1 this will also be your EYE off MROF. Otherwise your eye off MROF is
controlled by the number you enter in register 11
3
Electronic and Mechanical Anti Bounce: A higher setting will keep the gun from firing extra
shots with each trigger pull. The board monitors the noise and firing rate then adjust the
mechanical debounce to work best with the electronic bounce settings.
4 Dwell: Bolt Forward Duration. Length of time the bolt stays forward
5
AFA ROF: 1 = off, 2 and above is the rate of fire that must be reached and maintained before the
advanced firing modes activate.
6 AFA Shot Count: Actual number of trigger pulls before ramping activates
7 Fire Hold Off: Delay before the gun will fire again after cycling, in ms
8
Eye Hold Off: Delay before the gun will fire after seeing a ball, in ms. If you are using a slow
hopper it might be necessary to increase this to avoid chopping.
9
Anti Bolt Stick: This is the time the board waits before increasing the dwell to compensate for a
gun that has an issue with bolt stick. NOTE: Using this feature on a gun without this issue will
result in the first shot being hotter.
1 = off 2 = 5s 3 = 10s 4 = 15s
10 Anti Bolt Stick Time: This is the increase in dwell when register 9 is engaged.
11
Eye Off Rate Of Fire: 1 = rate set in register 2, 2 and above equals the maximum rate of fire
when the eyes are turned off. Example: If this register is set to 1 then the rate of fire you select in
register 2 will be the same with the eyes on or off. If this is set to 11 then your eye off rate of fire
will be a maximum of 11 bps.
12 ROF Additions in .20 of a second: 1 = off, 2 = .20, 3 = .40, 4 = .60, 5 = .80
13
Disable Eye thru trigger: 1 = yes, 2 = no (this feature allows you to turn the eyes off by holding
the trigger back for 2 seconds)
14
Clearing Shot: 1 = yes, 2 = no (This allows you to fire a ball if you hold the trigger back for
¾ of a second in the event the eyes do not see a ball)
15
DM4/WMD board: Not used
Shocker Board:
Eye Type: 1 = Break Beam, 2-20 = Reflective with sensitivity control) 2 = most sensitive 20 being
the least. YES we can see black paint with our new reflective eye logic. Currently our shocker
board is the only one that uses a reflective eye system.
NME/Intercepter Board:
Eye sensitivity: 1 - 20 (20 being more sensitive). If your eyes are not “seeing” each other
increase this setting.

[BigEvil]

Great job with the write up. I always wanted to do something like this myself.

Hey, did you get the ACE to work with the Pred?

[flyingpootang]

Great job with the write up. I always wanted to do something like this myself.

Hey, did you get the ACE to work with the Pred?

I'm not using the ACE system, because the lvl 10 will not allow you to chop anyway. I did read in the dealer forum that Ryan from Logic wrote: you would have to scratch through/cut the traces on the to the ACE board then connect the (4) eye wires to the ACE sensors's 4 legs. KEEP IN MIND YOU HAVE TO PARALLEL/SPLIT THE EMMITTER + (PRED ORANGE WIRE #4) WITH THE HES SIGNAL WIRE (YELLOW). As for which wires go where it' will have to be trial and error. If you want to do this mod I would suggest a different singal 4 legged pronged eye hot glued into the eye hole. I haven't looked yet, but try www.jameco.com or you can desolder your eye off of the ACE board, but be careful ACE boards are a little hard to come by now a days. I didn't even consider this because I wanted to be able to convert my X back to the stock condition. Hope this helps

[BigEvil]

I'm not using the ACE system, because the lvl 10 will not allow you to chop anyway. I did read in the dealer forum that Ryan from Logic wrote: you would have to scratch through/cut the traces on the to the ACE board then connect the (4) eye wires to the ACE sensors's 4 legs. As for which wires go where it' will have to be trial and error. If you want to do this mod I would suggest a different singal 4 legged pronged eye hot glued into the eye hole. I haven't looked yet, but try www.jameco.com or you can desolder your eye off of the ACE board, but be careful ACE boards are a little hard to come by now a days. I didn't even consider this because I wanted to be able to convert my X back to the stock condition. Hope this helps

I think it could be done easier than that, but Im afraid to try it. There is 4 wires on the Predator, 2 on the ACE. A +5v and a sig. The board appears to be grounded to the frame via the screw and space used to mount the ACE board. My theory is this, take the +5v and sig wires from the ACE and connect them to the appropriate eye port on the Predator. Take the remaining 2, which are both ground, and run them up and unde the ACE board, and attach them to the mounting screw.

Curt and I had this discussion once, he said it sounded good, but I never tried it. Coolhand couldnt get one to work what ever way he tried and I got paranoid about it.

I will dig up the emails I had with curt and post the info here later.

[flyingpootang]

I think it could be done easier than that, but Im afraid to try it. There is 4 wires on the Predator, 2 on the ACE. A +5v and a sig. The board appears to be grounded to the frame via the screw and space used to mount the ACE board. My theory is this, take the +5v and sig wires from the ACE and connect them to the appropriate eye port on the Predator. Take the remaining 2, which are both ground, and run them up and unde the ACE board, and attach them to the mounting screw.

Curt and I had this discussion once, he said it sounded good, but I never tried it. Coolhand couldnt get one to work what ever way he tried and I got paranoid about it.

I will dig up the emails I had with curt and post the info here later.

Sounds great the more info the better. Please re-read the orig install/guide post since I have moddified it since this morning.

[Chrishew09]

This may be alittle of topic, but I saw this post and it peaked my intrest. I was looking at the Worlock manual and it says they are using a "Transistor" to activate the solenoid, this concerns me because of the massive amount of current the E/Xmag needs to fire properly. A MOSFET would work much better and disipate less power, just wondering if a transistor is actually what they are using?

If you guys dont know how a PNP or NPN junction transistor works the Collector Emitter current is dependent upon the Base Emitter current, so the max current the transitor can conduct depends on how much current the "PIC" can source to the Base of the transistor.

The Gate on a MOSFET is voltage controlled so the Gate voltage and current function indepently from the Drain Source current, not only that but a MOSFET can support much high current levels and have a lower Rds_on (resistance when the MOSFET is closed), so they would disipate less power.

Just my two cents, but if they are really using a MOSFET then ignore my rant....


Good luck with the ACE controls.

[flyingpootang]

This may be alittle of topic, but I saw this post and it peaked my intrest. I was looking at the Worlock manual and it says they are using a "Transistor" to activate the solenoid, this concerns me because of the massive amount of current the E/Xmag needs to fire properly. A MOSFET would work much better and disipate less power, just wondering if a transistor is actually what they are using?

If you guys dont know how a PNP or NPN junction transistor works the Collector Emitter current is dependent upon the Base Emitter current, so the max current the transitor can conduct depends on how much current the "PIC" can source to the Base of the transistor.

The Gate on a MOSFET is voltage controlled so the Gate voltage and current function indepently from the Drain Source current, not only that but a MOSFET can support much high current levels and have a lower Rds_on (resistance when the MOSFET is closed), so they would disipate less power.

Just my two cents, but if they are really using a MOSFET then ignore my rant....


Good luck with the ACE controls.

So far with all of the PredII mods that have been done I have never heard of a fried board due to current draw from the solenoid. The brightside to all of PredII boards carry a life time warranty from Tag.

As for the ACE system and if it's needed or not on an E/Xmag I find it's like carrying around a extra pair of shoes with you just in case you wear a hole in one of them while walking down the street. I've been shooting my A4 with a PredII board with eyes in it and with even modirate paint I have never chopped a ball. So I don't stay awake at night thinking how can I mod an AGD Level 10 bolt into my angel "JUST IN CASE "