E/Xmag PredII/Mini Morlock install/guide

[flyingpootang]

Above applies to the way I have mine set up. Your 11 and 4 could be swapped per marker I'd bet. Mine I believe would work just the way you have yours set up Fly, but my brothers would be flip flop on your 11 and 4. Looking at the good ol'stock board my HES plug from the top towards the display was wired blk,yellow and red.I bet yours was the same as mine. Aaron's was stock yellow, blk, red. Can you verify this on your end?

Just to make shure we talking about the Mini Morlock 5.0. I'll post what the wiring diagram is from Tag:

Wiring harness - Front, Writing Down (HKS) (wires pointing away)
1 = White (eye +5 volts at 150ma max) short lead
2 = Green (eye signal)
3 = Black (emitter -) short lead
4 = Orange (emitter +)
5 = Red (solenoid 2)
6 = Yellow (solenoid 2)
7 = Red (solenoid 1)
8 = Blue (solenoid 1)
9 = Black (battery -)
10 = Red (battery +)
11 = Black (trig -)
12 = Grey (trig +)

As for my X's HES wiring on the stock emag board is Blk, Ywl, Rd from top to bottom like yours. After reading a lot of posts I decided to wire everything according to the Tag install manual. Compared to you and your bro's mag there are some differances, but if it works there is no reason to mess with it. I know Ryan from Logic is a real smart guy and a Tag dealer, so I'm shure he knows what he's doing. Me I'm just a humble player with no money, a lot of time, and bubble gum to try and figure stuff like this out........

[REDRT]

Nope We aren't 5.0 we have older 3.0 . Nothing really different. You just have some different ramping and break out options over us. Install I believe is the same. I should be able to pluck your board into my harness and work. That looks about right. I think that is the same thing I downloaded over a year ago now. I color matched my stock wire to the boards leads as best I could to make things easier on me. It took me about an hour and a half to do the complete job soldering and shrink rapping the wires nice and neat

Just to make shure we talking about the Mini Morlock 5.0. I'll post what the wiring diagram is from Tag:

Wiring harness - Front, Writing Down (HKS) (wires pointing away)
1 = White (eye +5 volts at 150ma max) short lead
2 = Green (eye signal)
3 = Black (emitter -) short lead
4 = Orange (emitter +)
5 = Red (solenoid 2)
6 = Yellow (solenoid 2)
7 = Red (solenoid 1)
8 = Blue (solenoid 1)
9 = Black (battery -)
10 = Red (battery +)
11 = Black (trig -)
12 = Grey (trig +)

As for my X's HES wiring on the stock emag board is Blk, Ywl, Rd from top to bottom like yours. After reading a lot of posts I decided to wire everything according to the Tag install manual. Compared to you and your bro's mag there are some differances, but if it works there is no reason to mess with it. I know Ryan from Logic is a real smart guy and a Tag dealer, so I'm shure he knows what he's doing. Me I'm just a humble player with no money, a lot of time, and bubble gum to try and figure stuff like this out........

[BigEvil]

My question:
I see that the eye elements are soldered to a circuit board. This board then has 2 wires that run to the guns main board. They are mraked "5v" and "sig". I put a voltage tester on both of them. The 5v one gives a steady 5volts. The other (Sig) give a reading when you cover the eye.

My question then become: How do I take these two wires and properly hook them up to the Pred. Morlock board? I know that there
are 4 connectors for the eyes (2 for the emmiter, 2 for the
detector)

Curt's Answer:
There has to be a ground somewhere. Is it grounded to the frame of the gun?
It takes three wires to run an eye, minimum- +v, ground, and
sig.
In any case, you can just run the signal into the morlock's eye signal pin,
Basically hook the two wires up to the two normally used for the detector and you'll
be fine. Second make sure you have a ground path, any black wire on the morlock is ground.

-Curt

[REDRT]

Isn't there a screw holding the ACE board to the frame? If so that is the ground. Then your left with the two wires that should be easy enough to figure were to place them.

My question:
I see that the eye elements are soldered to a circuit board. This board then has 2 wires that run to the guns main board. They are mraked "5v" and "sig". I put a voltage tester on both of them. The 5v one gives a steady 5volts. The other (Sig) give a reading when you cover the eye.

My question then become: How do I take these two wires and properly hook them up to the Pred. Morlock board? I know that there
are 4 connectors for the eyes (2 for the emmiter, 2 for the
detector)

Curt's Answer:
There has to be a ground somewhere. Is it grounded to the frame of the gun?
It takes three wires to run an eye, minimum- +v, ground, and
sig.
In any case, you can just run the signal into the morlock's eye signal pin,
Basically hook the two wires up to the two normally used for the detector and you'll
be fine. Second make sure you have a ground path, any black wire on the morlock is ground.

-Curt

[flyingpootang]

Isn't there a screw holding the ACE board to the frame? If so that is the ground. Then your left with the two wires that should be easy enough to figure were to place them.

RdRt: Datsa right on da snozolla. The ACE grounds via the mounting screw

BigE: Since you verified the ACE Red = @ 5vdc Yellow = @ 5vdc covered and the ground is the mounting screw. I would say that you would only have to connect these 2 wires to the Pred board. Red to #4 orange emmiter +, Yellow = #2 green eyesignal, and ground is alredy done via the mounting screw, but that is just a guess. Ryan's from Logic posted in the AO dealers forum on how to connect the ACE to an Pred board towards the last 2 pages of the post on PredII installs. Instead of cutting through the traces of the board you can just tack on the 4 eye wires to the ACE's 4 legs. Keep us updated and may the Pred II gods smile on you

[Ydna]

Hey fellas, I hope you don't mind me upping this thread; I've got some stuff to add (at least some mindless tech banter).

I just got done installing my first Morlock in an E-mag. Firstly, I see some people are using the emitter eye to power the HES, and some are using the detector eye. Functionally, the detector is straight 5 volts from the board, whereas the emitter is 5v dropped down using a resistor. In my install just now I used the detector +5 source (white wire) to power the HES, but if people are using the detector (orange wire) and t's woring alright, then nevermind.

I ended up having to wire the grey Morlock trigger wire to the yellow HES wire, and the +5 from the board (to power the HES) to the red HES wire. By my reasoning this makes sense, if not for anything else since the voltage required to power a device is usually red (meaning the red HES wire should be that to power it, not the yellow wire). In the first post he mentioned the yellow wire being +5 when idle and grounding to 0 when firing, which signifies the switch has been "closed", same as the grey wire on the Morlock board.

Enough of that. All this talk of the ACE board interests me...but I don't have one available here. I've seen them, but I don't have one to dissect in front of me. I'm not sure how good the board will work with the stock reflective eye, but I can add that if it doesn't work so hot then you can remove the stock eye and install a Fairchild QRD1114 eye instead...I've found it to work best with the Morlock's programming. The QRD1114 is 3-mm x 6-mm, and 4.6-mm deep...so you may need to drill a wider hole in the body for it (stock eye is circular 4-mm).

The Mag I've got here didn't previously have eyes, so I will be adding those later in the week. I'll be using the QRD1114 under the chamber like the stock ACE boards. I'll post pictures later.

[flyingpootang]

Hey fellas, I hope you don't mind me upping this thread; I've got some stuff to add (at least some mindless tech banter).

I just got done installing my first Morlock in an E-mag. Firstly, I see some people are using the emitter eye to power the HES, and some are using the detector eye. Functionally, the detector is straight 5 volts from the board, whereas the emitter is 5v dropped down using a resistor. In my install just now I used the detector +5 source (white wire) to power the HES, but if people are using the detector (orange wire) and t's woring alright, then nevermind.

I ended up having to wire the grey Morlock trigger wire to the yellow HES wire, and the +5 from the board (to power the HES) to the red HES wire. By my reasoning this makes sense, if not for anything else since the voltage required to power a device is usually red (meaning the red HES wire should be that to power it, not the yellow wire). In the first post he mentioned the yellow wire being +5 when idle and grounding to 0 when firing, which signifies the switch has been "closed", same as the grey wire on the Morlock board.

Enough of that. All this talk of the ACE board interests me...but I don't have one available here. I've seen them, but I don't have one to dissect in front of me. I'm not sure how good the board will work with the stock reflective eye, but I can add that if it doesn't work so hot then you can remove the stock eye and install a Fairchild QRD1114 eye instead...I've found it to work best with the Morlock's programming. The QRD1114 is 3-mm x 6-mm, and 4.6-mm deep...so you may need to drill a wider hole in the body for it (stock eye is circular 4-mm).

The Mag I've got here didn't previously have eyes, so I will be adding those later in the week. I'll be using the QRD1114 under the chamber like the stock ACE boards. I'll post pictures later.

Sorry for the late reply I just got back from vacation. Any word on the Fairchild eye yet? I'd like to see the pics.. You got a great web site I've been looking around on there and you have some interesting stuff. If you need pictures or specs on a ACE let me know. I have one and it's in working condition.....