** SOLD OUT! ** Closing pre-orders until the next batch. See you in a couple weeks!
Finally here! New Cheater Trigger Groups now shipping as fast as I can build them. First one is out the door today! Finishing up these first 5 and I have 10 blanks cut for pre order. Get on the list if you want it now!
$100 shipped each.
All new design is made of solid brass and will still be there 1000 years after they bury you with your Automag. You will be shocked by the super light trigger the first time you touch it! These are easily on par with electronic triggers. Maybe even better! Hand Made in the USA and Precision Calibrated for a quick responsive trigger that will make people think you're CHEATING!
Built from scratch with all my own parts one at a time with tender loving personal care. No more blow-by with an o-ring sealed exhaust. Half inch piston provides enough force to fire any valve at the lowest pressures. My ULT X-valve fires as low as 10 PSI! Air consumption is practically nothing with only a tiny puff of exhaust between shots.
The basic rectangular shape is more compact and easier to modify for other frames. Get your Dremel out boys! Custom fitting available for a little extra. My test rig is an Intelliframe so that's what they fit going out the door.
The Cheater is compatible with your safety switch and the gun will not fire with the safety on. The pull length is set to a maximum by the internals. No need for a trigger stop but feel free to use them. The built in stop has a unique spongy feel and you may just like it the way it is. Installation is easy! Drop it in, hook up your air, and snug up your top grip screws to hold it in place. You may need shorter screws if they are too long. Cranking down hard on the screws is BAD. Just nudge them in a little more than solid and it's set.
Every Cheater is fired a few thousand times minimum during calibration to break in the new parts. If you saw my Ghetto EPM video then you know how I test them. I rigged up a way to simulate shooting without wasting HPA and run thorough tests from my shop compressor. Uses standard hardware store variety o-rings for easy repair. It works best when well oiled just like your Mag. To service, simply remove the Cheater and air inlet fitting. A single drop of oil in the open hole and you're good to go for the day.
Get a good adjustable LPR. At 10-20 PSI it will be barely turned on. Firing it at 10 PSI really feels like nothing and the trigger is much more easily walkable than my previous design. The Cheater shoots very well up to 40-50 PSI. Higher pressures put excess squash on the rubber o-rings and changes how things work inside. Keep the pressure low for best performance.
Took it apart and can't fix it? Calibration Service is $25. Includes replacement rubber and new pin grind if needed. Other parts extra. I'll put it on the test stand and get it shooting perfect again if you should find out these tiny parts are impossible to assemble.
Warranty: This thing is made of nearly indestructible materials and you should never need warranty service. If you broke it then you probably did something very bad to your Cheater. But I don't want you to feel owned. Let me know if you have a problem and I will do what's reasonable and fair to make it right. I want you to smile while shooting your Mag with my parts and make my own little mark on the world one paintball at a time! This is my warranty policy and it lasts for as long as I live.
Are you ready to be a CHEATER???
UPDATE: Lots of questions about other frames. Where there is a will there is a way! I can do a basic install for $25 extra. There are two ways to do this. Mill the cheater, or mill the frame. As you can see, it doesn't take much to make it fit an I-frame, so that will be the standard configuration.
If your frame is .550" wide inside, like an I-frame, then I can more than likely fit the cheater without modding your frame (also pretty easy to do yourself if you're handy with tools). The Cheater is .540"-.545" wide and can be shaved down to squeeze into .500". The piston is actually slightly smaller than 1/2" and there is barely enough room. It's mostly a matter of getting it aligned correctly between the trigger and sear. Not really any different than how the home brew stuff is done except that I have more tools laying around at my disposal.
If the inside width is less, then your frame needs milling. I have a special attachment made for holding a frame that I use for my acrylic projects. Think of it like a giant vise holding it top to bottom with plastic jaws. I can easily do major surgery on your frame without touching the outside finish and make your Cheater fit like a glove. It doesn't matter what frame you have even if its from a different gun. I can get it to fit perfectly. Pretty straight forward, just widen the frame a little where the cheater sits and its done. Send pics of your frame first so I can make sure. I need a side view and a clear top view preferably with a ruler. I can try to make the grip screws hold the cheater but no promises on that. We may not be able to avoid tapping holes somewhere for set screws. It just worked out nice on that for the I-frame.
Turn around time would be based on when I receive the work and payment. I can easily install it with 1 day turn around. But to be fair, I'm going down the list, first come, first serve. Feel free to ask questions and be specific about what you want. I have the tools and need for work!
I imagine some frames are just to narrow to make this work. It is possible to make one with a smaller piston but that would be on a different time line.
Sooner or later I will show what I came up with for an internal LPR too. You can always add that later tho. My fingers only shoot so fast!
Late night snack update: Just a couple pics of some frame work. A little skim off the top and setting up some horizontal massage for a top secret project. I made these tools to work on my gun projects. Will be handy for installs!