Thanks, thats not bad at all
I liked your idea so much the I used it.
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Hmm, I will have to do some hunting, I didn't know there was another version.
Here is my lower hard line so far, getting the bends to line up right in such a tight area was a bit tricky.
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Has anyone tried the hand bendable stuff? I also saw where McMaster offers some sort of bending cover that is made of spring steel that says it will keep the tubing from kinking. And it's <$2. vs $30+ for the 90* tool.
Hmmm that does look interesting, I wonder if it could be anodized and if it could, how would that affects its bendability or finish
I ended up picking up a small tube bender from harbor freight. Its worked well for the price.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eig...der-94571.html
Oh that bender from HF isn't bad at all. I might give that a whirl.
I have a rather nice Imperial bender that works great, (I did the fuel and brake systems in stainless on my Jeep with it,) but that HF one would fit so much better in the portable toolbox. Does it bend easily and without marring?
I had a little marring, but I think it was because I was trying to get the second bend so close to the first. I will take a look tonight and take some close ups to show the finish of a single bend. I liked because the diameter of the bend was pretty small compared to the other benders I came across.
I saw that Magot is selling kits in the dealer sec. $23 , Anno'd black.
I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?
I noticed I had more marring when trying to do multiple bends in a very tight area. I definitely made a mistake by ordering one universal fitting from ccm and not two, I would have only had to do one bend instead of three.
Splat15 your mag provided a lot of inspiration for my build.
Just how stiff is this tubing? cause I've been wondering if my old spring bender (from my hvac days) would work on this stuff without mangleing it up.
Its stiff, I have never used a spring bender but it sounds like you do it by hand and I don't think it would work
I have an Imperial/Eastman bender but I know small close bends are a bugger to get right. In A/C it's ok to get a little sloppy but on a PB gun we wanna stay tight, not always easy. The Primo way would be to do the math and mill some blocks for a hydrolic bender, and then you get into cost and not all set up's are the same. It's a catch 22.
Anyone have the part # for macroline? I know it's 1/4" tube, but there are about 100 different ones and I don't want to order the wrong stuff.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
post #24 has the p/n's I didn't check them but you could start there. 25 ft?
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...sure-macroline
I swear I haven't been reading your mind...![]()
I've used that stuff on other markers, and it's been fine and dandy. I'm going to try running my Xvalve at 1100psi and didn't want to use hardlines on this one, which is why I went hunting for "safe" macro. That aluminum line is awesome. Bends very nicely and seals well out of the box in CCMs. (I put an extra o-ring in anyway, just for peace of mind.)
I dont know if this helps you guys out ,as far as which tubes to use ,but ive been using :
K&S 1/4X.035 - good for some hand bends and handling high pressure
K&S 1/4X.049 - thicker wall & harder to bend , if you have a bender & a vice its no issue
DO NOT make the same mistake i did & order 1/4X.014 !! way to thin and too easily bends. also no good with high pressure
sizes in pic from left to right :
1/4 X .014 - 1/4 X .035 - 1/4 X .049
This is the chart direct from K&S
If you look in the middle of chart where it says "Round aluminum tubing " follow it down to 1/4 and You will see the sizes they offer,mostly in foot lenths . But when your ordering a roll lets say from somewhere else , you can refer to the chart as to what not to order
part # 83061 for the thickest stuff that im using , only bad part is it only comes in 12"
heres the website
http://www.ksmetals.com
PS for the record IDK what these 2 tubes sizes are like with CCM fitting .I use the regular macro fitting so far
Last edited by NU_METAL; 11-12-2014 at 05:40 PM.
They are. Burst is supposed to be 4 times the maximum working pressure. MSC claims 1200psi is working pressure. Not to say they can't be wrong, but I haven't been able to find anything saying otherwise. If there's a definite spec somewhere saying 1200 is burst, I'd like to know so I can go yell at MSC.
Max working pressure is usually listed as the working pressure and burst pressure is usually the absolute minimum pressure that it will handle before bursting. Burst pressure is usually 3 or 4x working pressure, but that is not a hard and fast rule. If you look at the catalogue listing for the MSC line of products, this one in particular, it lists the burst pressure at 1200psi. So, it seems that this item is rated at its burst rating and not the working pressure. If you look in the same catalogue, they are rating the parker tubes at the lower max pressures of approximately 625psi, but don't list a burst pressure. If you look up the burst rating of the parker tubes, the burst rating is about 4 time the max pressure rating and puts them at about a 2600psi burst rating. This all makes sense if you look at the wall thickness of the products. The Parker tubes have much thicker walls which would lead to a higher rating.