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Thread: Looking for some detailed advice

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  1. #1

    Looking for some detailed advice

    Hello and thanks for for checking in. I have a few questions and I apologize if this gets long or if I ask something that is located somewhere else. I've been reading around the forums here a number of times and I'd like to either upgrade or build a higher quality automag to keep up with players with new-age E-guns. My brother and I own classic 68 automags from over a decade ago and both still work fine. Neither has been upgraded or changed from stock except for a new barrel on mine.

    Now I've seen on the forums here a few sweet looking/shooting mags and would love to see the specific parts or ideas to build/upgrade. So far I've been looking into the following;
    ULE Mainbody
    X-valve
    apex 2 barrel
    some new clamping feedneck for a decent loader
    new rail to fit the ULE body (without the barrel detent thing for the twistlocks, not sure what type that would be yet)
    not sure about the grip or trigger, I don't have a problem with the stock one currently.

    Beyond that I'm not too sure what I could do to up the performance of my marker. (I only use compressed air fyi.)

    My end goal is to have a fully mechanical, semi-auto marker that consistently has good range and accuracy. I love my mag but I would like to put some cash into it or build another mag that performs a little stronger. If anyone has any suggestions about my ideas or can point me in the direction of a solid build I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Sunny Florida- Woot!
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    5,240
    Just buy an X valve and ULE body. You can use the stock rail, just remove the twist lock pin.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    the ULE bodies are threaded for Autococker barrels which increases the number of barrels available. if you want it to RT i believe you'll have to change the rail and grip frame.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    the ULE bodies are threaded for Autococker barrels which increases the number of barrels available. if you want it to RT i believe you'll have to change the rail and grip frame.
    What does it mean "to RT?" Just wondering.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Texas
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    9,305
    For the money you are going to dump into it, you might want to consider just buying a new one. Can't go wrong with a Tac-1.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    For the money you are going to dump into it, you might want to consider just buying a new one. Can't go wrong with a Tac-1.
    if you buy all new parts he's right unless you just want the pride in building one from scratch. used parts will shave a little off the cost, all depends on what you want.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sunny Florida- Woot!
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    if you want it to RT i believe you'll have to change the rail and grip frame.
    Nope.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Reactive Trigger---there is a sweet spot in the trigger pull that allows the marker to fire continously as long as you hold it. poor mans full auto. go on you tube and check it out

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    Reactive Trigger---there is a sweet spot in the trigger pull that allows the marker to fire continously as long as you hold it. poor mans full auto. go on you tube and check it out
    Ah ok. I don't really care for that. I'm just trying to find a build that has higher shooting performance while still being mechanical and semiauto. thanks though. =)

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