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Thread: Warpless z2

  1. #1
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    Warpless z2

    Ok so I was bored and decided I should hack up a loader :what:


    Damn compared to the halo line the z2 has no room for this. Cut down the elbow and had to thin it down a little more than half of the material to get it to sit in the existing Raceway as I wanted to cut the z2 as little as possible.


    Had to notch the battery block to get it to fit will look into other power options later


    Almost there!





    Now I just need paint to test run in. Notice the motor is the same size as a halo one so might get some high torque motors depending on how the stock one holds up.




    First try and works great. I had nothing but old paint. I will try to get some fresh stuff and kick the rof up in the next video.
    Last edited by Syko89; 03-08-2014 at 04:55 PM.

  2. #2
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    Nice!

    That video makes me appreciate living in the AZ desert!

  3. #3
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    Yeah Winter sucks but I will say I would rather rush for cover behind a oak or pine trees than your local vegetation.

  4. #4
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    could you post pics of how easy to remove the front is for cleaning?

    Very nice look

  5. #5
    Hey! Winter is awesome!

    Hiding in the ground clutter during an intense snow squall, watching your opponent, knowing he hasn't got a hope in hades of seeing a static target through the snow

    Sliding behind logs is much more painless with a few inches of white padding

    Need fortifications? Bring a shovel

    Tracking/hunt games

    Automags work pretty well even with spindrift everywhere. Not everything does you know...

    On a more relevant note, I may need to try a left feed some day

  6. #6
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    I will when I get home but the elbow coming out of the loader is not secured on inside the loader. Instead it is sandwiched with the bracket at the bottom and the warp body at the top. Loosening the clamps at the body and the elbow slides right off and then the nose can be removed as any other z2

  7. #7
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    Sounds like I might have to pick up a used z2, my modded halo just did not hold up and was a pain to use in this configuration.

  8. #8
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    I did it on a halo 2 and it worked great. The key with the halo is you have to use a upgrade to the motor

  9. #9
    I want one! Do you have a parts list?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by river031403 View Post
    I want one! Do you have a parts list?
    Ummm
    1 z2
    1 3/4in 90 degree copper elbow flanged on one side
    2 3/4in 45 degree copper elbow. 1 flanged on both ends and the other flanged only on one side
    Some straight 3/4in copper pipe
    Some fix stix "epoxy puddy"
    Some quick set 2 part epoxy

  11. #11
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    Sweet. Im going to have to try this.. I have a prophecy laying around. If there was a demand for it, maybe we could come up with 3d printed loader trays for various loaders that feed up.

    "I'm not happy unless you're not happy"

  12. #12
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    Sure seems like there is interest any time one of these types of threads get posted. Think I've only see one that wasn't Halo-ish, can't remember what it was. Loader trays and quality mounting brackets would do a lot for these types of setups. Think my halo's death was mostly brought on by a poorly milled bracket putting too much strain on the shell.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Sweet. Im going to have to try this.. I have a prophecy laying around. If there was a demand for it, maybe we could come up with 3d printed loader trays for various loaders that feed up.
    You actually would not need a new loader. Both the halo Raceway and the z2 come apart where the paint feeds towards the feedneck. 3d print a new piece that diverts the feed path up.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Sweet. Im going to have to try this.. I have a prophecy laying around. If there was a demand for it, maybe we could come up with 3d printed loader trays for various loaders that feed up.
    That would be sweet!

    I'd be down for one!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ailia View Post
    Think my halo's death was mostly brought on by a poorly milled bracket putting too much strain on the shell.
    I wouldn't want to stock them but would do a small run if I could sell them upfront.

  16. #16
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    What kind of design did you have in mind luke? Mostly wondering in terms of attaching the hopper to the bracket.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I wouldn't want to stock them but would do a small run if I could sell them upfront.
    Color me interested. Right now I've got a blank of 1/8" (or 1/16"?) thick, 2" wide aluminum that I picked up from the hardware store. Planning on drilling and bending it to make a bracket for my warpless Halo. Also, since both my dad and dad-in-law also use warp setups, I have a couple other Halo's that need modded and brackets too. Dropping the warpfeed makes the gun sit down easier (not lopsided) and drops, what, a pound or pound-and-a-half?

  18. #18
    Count me in Luke...

    Which loader do you guys consider the best option for this mod? I have been looking to pick up an Invert Halo too, which was suggested in a couple mod threads...?

  19. #19
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    I'm interested in any info on this as well. 3d printed parts would be great.
    Kory
    Micromag rt, 68 ci flatline,12"ss total freak ,warpdrive, 12volt revi.homemade intelliframe.

  20. #20
    Got to bump this again. I'd love to see the inside of the setup, to see how a 3D printed feed diverter might drop in. It sounds like if that were the case, all you'd need is to drill two holes (one in the outer shell, one in the inside ramp) and attach some warp hose running all the way out. Then you could use a normal warp 90* elbow.

  21. #21
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    I never revisited this thread until today, this is how I would do it. It places the hopper in the perfect playing position. Works on the left or right hand side of the marker.


  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justus View Post
    Got to bump this again. I'd love to see the inside of the setup, to see how a 3D printed feed diverter might drop in. It sounds like if that were the case, all you'd need is to drill two holes (one in the outer shell, one in the inside ramp) and attach some warp hose running all the way out. Then you could use a normal warp 90* elbow.
    Posted full build thread

  23. #23
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    Luke, count me in depending on price

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I never revisited this thread until today, this is how I would do it. It places the hopper in the perfect playing position. Works on the left or right hand side of the marker.


    Likey. BUT, you might want to think about extending that attaches to the grip and slot the holes the same way the agd warp plate is. This way the user could adjust the angle to his liking.

  25. #25
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    No offence but the AGD bracket is a bad design. Angling the Warpfeed so you can reach around is not an ideal playing position, it's cumbersome , unbalanced and just feels unnatural, not to mention it looks funky. (Sorry Tom ) Have you ever shouldered a warp feed marker using my warp-rear bracket? This design allows you to shoulder your marker as if there is no Warpfeed attached (NO REACHING AROUND) and it does not interfere with your mask.

    If you want to know where the Warpfeed-rear bracket and the design above places your hopper, do this (you don't even need a marker) hold you hands up as if you're shooting in a natural position, super compact is ok, now look down on the side you are holding your foregrip with, see the 'V' your arm makes? That is where the hopper sits. If you want to take the experiment further, (again without a marker works) sit a hopper in the V, there is no better position.

    The only necessary adjustment has to do with the width of your hopper and the parallel space between the marker and hopper.

    This was one of my set-ups I used with the Warp-rear bracket, I'm squatted down on my toes, leaning out the RHS of a bunker



    The key is the V it's the only free space available. Look at the angle of my forearm, elbow to foregrip, it's completely natural.

    Yea the Vertfeed sucked.


  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I never revisited this thread until today, this is how I would do it. It places the hopper in the perfect playing position. Works on the left or right hand side of the marker.

    I'll take 1

  27. #27
    I really like Luke's warp forward bracket


  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post



    The key is the V it's the only free space available. Look at the angle of my forearm, elbow to foregrip, it's completely natural.

    Yea the Vertfeed sucked.

    NO offense back, but that looks awful the way you are holding it and very far from the way I do. Which is pretty much the reason why I don't use the warp mounting brackets I got from you way back when.

  29. #29
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    I prefer a compact setup, but even more I couldn't play with the AGD bracket. Actually that is how I shoulder a marker with or without a Warp.

    Having to hook your arm around the warp and hopper never worked for me. I'm curious to know how you shoulder your Warpfeed markers and how you are able to achieve a comfortable mount using the factory bracket?

  30. #30
    Agd warp bracket was the reason I went away from the warp originally. Now I'm back with lukes warp forward bracket sooo tight love it
    Last edited by river031403; 03-09-2014 at 11:41 AM.

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