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Thread: printed rails, Interest thread

  1. #31
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    Is it possible to see the "square" rail ?

  2. #32
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    any pics? what has changed? what kind of testing has been done?

  3. #33
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    could you use a cut down rt sear pin and make those wing things smaller.

  4. #34
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    I have one of each and I will be extensively testing them. I can tell you that each rail Weighs about 1/2 oz

    To leave feedback: Click seller/buyers name, Click feedback score, Click leave feedback

  5. #35
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    1/2 oz is crazy light. That's awesome.

  6. #36
    If you've got a boner for threaded sear pins, you could possibly use thread inserts.

    The simplest option is to undersize the hole and press-fit the sear pin in. It's just a 1/8" pin.

    The un-fun part is the tolerances on the 3d printed hole. 3d printing smallish holes accurately and consistently can be kind of a pain.

    So the in-between is to oversize part of the hole for an easily sourced bearing/bushing -- adapt 1/4" to 1/8". And just hold the sear pin in with e-clips. Yeah, you have e-clips showing, but... come on, you're rocking a plastic rail.

    No wings, either case.
    Last edited by GoatBoy; 04-21-2014 at 07:23 PM.
    "Accuracy by aiming."


    Definitely not on the A-Team.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by maverick13 View Post
    Is it possible to see the "square" rail ?
    sorry printer is being aa brick right now, its a term for a dead 3D printer.
    working with my guy in NY and MN to figure out what happened.
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post

    The un-fun part is the tolerances on the 3d printed hole. 3d printing smallish holes accurately and consistently can be kind of a pain.
    not if you have a good printer :P
    I never have problems with holes.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    If you've got a boner for threaded sear pins, you could possibly use thread inserts.

    The simplest option is to undersize the hole and press-fit the sear pin in. It's just a 1/8" pin.

    The un-fun part is the tolerances on the 3d printed hole. 3d printing smallish holes accurately and consistently can be kind of a pain.

    So the in-between is to oversize part of the hole for an easily sourced bearing/bushing -- adapt 1/4" to 1/8". And just hold the sear pin in with e-clips. Yeah, you have e-clips showing, but... come on, you're rocking a plastic rail.

    No wings, either case.
    also why would I change stuff like the sear pin area, I have no problems with it, if it works leave it

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    any pics? what has changed? what kind of testing has been done?
    its just a straight channel. no zig zag like on am mm rails or emag rails

  11. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    also why would I change stuff like the sear pin area, I have no problems with it, if it works leave it
    Mostly because the threaded-ness I think is overkill and needs wings. Making one-off's is one thing, but making a bunch is another. If your printer can do it reliably, that's great.

    What's wrong with your printer?

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    Mostly because the threaded-ness I think is overkill and needs wings. Making one-off's is one thing, but making a bunch is another. If your printer can do it reliably, that's great.

    What's wrong with your printer?
    oh the layers are laying wrong right now, talking to a buddy and he is helping me out with it, its just a g code issue, which I know nothing about. lol
    so he is trying to help me.

    when you say needs wings, what do you mean?

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    oh the layers are laying wrong right now, talking to a buddy and he is helping me out with it, its just a g code issue, which I know nothing about. lol
    so he is trying to help me.

    when you say needs wings, what do you mean?
    If you want help with your printer/ Gcode allow me to take a look at it. I have been quite successful with my printer.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by himynameisbob View Post
    If you want help with your printer/ Gcode allow me to take a look at it. I have been quite successful with my printer.
    it wasn't the g code.
    derp, I had some things just misaligned, we think.

    thankyou I will keep that in mind.
    thankyou for the offer.

  15. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    oh the layers are laying wrong right now, talking to a buddy and he is helping me out with it, its just a g code issue, which I know nothing about. lol
    so he is trying to help me.

    when you say needs wings, what do you mean?
    The fat parts in the rail. In your case, the big chunk surrounding the sear pin (I think).



    Yeah one of the reasons I've held back on the 3d printers is I want one that has a built-in auto-level probe if it's FDM...

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    The fat parts in the rail. In your case, the big chunk surrounding the sear pin (I think).



    Yeah one of the reasons I've held back on the 3d printers is I want one that has a built-in auto-level probe if it's FDM...
    yeah my auto level is me set the bed to the level that is right and what do you know it stays level

    the "wings" on the super skinny rail is where the am/mm sear sits.

  17. #47
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    I have a question about other printed items. Working on a pump build at the moment, and I'm scrambling to find a hitman mod for it. The thought struck me... Can such a thing be printed?

    Here's a rough sketch of what I came up with:

    Hitman1.png

    I have a feeling what I've sketched up probably won't last long; the two small holes where it mounts to the pump plate are probably going to break through, right? The cutaway between these two holes is necessary because of the pump rod that is between (and slightly below) them. BTW, the overall length is 2", width is 1" at the top tapering to 0.5" on the handle and thickness varies from 0.25" where it mounts down to 0.125" on the handle.

    Thoughts? Can it be done KNM?

  18. #48
    That's printable, but it won't be strong enough to use as a pump handle.

    The best possibility would be to use 3d printing for the tricky geometries, then augment with off-the-shelf parts for strength. So 3d printed parts + off the shelf CF rods = KABLAM. Personally for anything pump rod/handle related, I'd look at some actual linear bearings and build around those if possible.


    Back to rail stuff -- customization is where having a rail in the first place makes any sense at all. The rail has always been the biggest untapped customization potential of the automag. Aside from machining issues, it really should have been folded together with the grip frame.

    So, for instance, if you wanted picatinny on your rail, or an integrated Gopro mount, or a plain 1/4-20 hole, or a particular foregrip setup, you could customize it into the rail. Maybe you like having "wings", maybe you don't. Maybe you want a cocker beavertail on the back of your gun for no good reason whatsoever. Rail is the place to do it. (Not the body. *Cough*) If not, then get rid of the rail altogether.

    The neat part is that this can all just be code. Adding/removing options can be as simple as setting/clearing 1's and 0's in a parameterized file. Having more options is probably a nightmare for classic manufacturing, but it's totally doable if you're 3d printing them. And it would be way more "custom" than, well, what's normally considered custom.

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post

    So, for instance, if you wanted picatinny on your rail
    A very interesting idea. I'd love a rail with 6-8" of picatinny rail seamlessly stemming from the front under the barrel. Then again, I may be challenging the breakage point of printed materials again. Maybe if it kept the rounded upper contour of the rail it would be strong enough?

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    That's printable, but it won't be strong enough to use as a pump handle.
    yes it will.
    may need small tweeking but should work fine.

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    I have a question about other printed items. Working on a pump build at the moment, and I'm scrambling to find a hitman mod for it. The thought struck me... Can such a thing be printed?

    Here's a rough sketch of what I came up with:

    Hitman1.png

    I have a feeling what I've sketched up probably won't last long; the two small holes where it mounts to the pump plate are probably going to break through, right? The cutaway between these two holes is necessary because of the pump rod that is between (and slightly below) them. BTW, the overall length is 2", width is 1" at the top tapering to 0.5" on the handle and thickness varies from 0.25" where it mounts down to 0.125" on the handle.

    Thoughts? Can it be done KNM?
    yes it can be done.
    * again small tweeking but i could get you where you want to be.

    i am packing up to move into a new house we just purchased,
    so the print shop will be down for a while.
    ill hit this thread up with a post when im back, or ill hitup my printshop thread.
    Last edited by knownothingmags; 05-15-2014 at 02:57 PM.

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    yes it can be done.
    * again small tweeking but i could get you where you want to be.

    i am packing up to move into a new house we just purchased,
    so the print shop will be down for a while.
    ill hit this thread up with a post when im back, or ill hitup my printshop thread.
    congrats on the new house. i'd be keen to hear what kind of tweaking would be necessary.

  23. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    A very interesting idea. I'd love a rail with 6-8" of picatinny rail seamlessly stemming from the front under the barrel. Then again, I may be challenging the breakage point of printed materials again. Maybe if it kept the rounded upper contour of the rail it would be strong enough?
    Well you could wrap it around the barrel...

    https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/pic...1384501317.jpg

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    Well you could wrap it around the barrel...

    https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/pic...1384501317.jpg
    very nice idea.
    goatboy hit me up in like a month lol
    ill also check this thread again.

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    Well you could wrap it around the barrel...

    https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/pic...1384501317.jpg
    That is cool, but those of us with CF barrels may not be so happy about the scuff risk of something like that. Even the aluminum barrels might show wear from something like that.

    It's a really cool design though.

  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    That is cool, but those of us with CF barrels may not be so happy about the scuff risk of something like that. Even the aluminum barrels might show wear from something like that.

    It's a really cool design though.
    saw this,

    make a recess on the inside and put a nice lining of rubber/silicone tape, so then that is all that touches the barrel,
    get a high enough quality of silicone tape and it wont ever degrade or stick to anything it touches, just grips.

  27. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    saw this,

    make a recess on the inside and put a nice lining of rubber/silicone tape, so then that is all that touches the barrel,
    get a high enough quality of silicone tape and it wont ever degrade or stick to anything it touches, just grips.
    That's pretty much the way to do it.

    That part is designed for a 1" barrel anyways (i.e. the thick part on autococker barrels where either pump arms or old school shrouds used to go), so a CF barrel typically isn't going to be thick enough anyways. I'd thicken the barrel up with whatever, and maybe cover that with shrink wrap or something to tidy it up.



    Say, do you have black filament? You know how I likes my black...

  28. #58
    Goatboy please design & print drum magazine for .68 paint 20 rounds or so

  29. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoatBoy View Post
    That's pretty much the way to do it.

    That part is designed for a 1" barrel anyways (i.e. the thick part on autococker barrels where either pump arms or old school shrouds used to go), so a CF barrel typically isn't going to be thick enough anyways. I'd thicken the barrel up with whatever, and maybe cover that with shrink wrap or something to tidy it up.



    Say, do you have black filament? You know how I likes my black...
    Just waiting on the house to close so we can move in.

  30. #60
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    Got another crazy printing idea that may just work. If you pay attention to my blabbering, you may know that I just "finished" a Z body pump mag. By finished I mean made it functional, and it's a whole hell of a lot of fun.

    An idea struck me. What about making a "classic feed" for where the powertube attaches. The body uses as a dovetailed, removable powerfeed setup. If I can go with a classic feed, I can easily bolt on a very low profile stick feed. Biggest problem is that I'm drawing up a product with a market of one buyer (I think). Then again, I thought 3D printing was all about the capacity to do one offs and rapid prototypes?

    So I took to my free CAD software and came up with this. I'm pretty sure this is a printable part, no?

    Z Body Classic Feed.png


    I also made one with a fully revolved and extruded 12 round tube, but that might not be possible to print because of dimensions and geometry? See below.

    Z Bod Feed 2.png

    And one last crazy idea. Cram and jam, with an tapered cram receiver. It's cramming on a 10 angle up and out.

    Z Cram Jam.png
    Last edited by zulubravo44; 05-29-2014 at 05:23 PM.

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