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Thread: Power Tip O Ring Wrong Size

  1. #1

    Power Tip O Ring Wrong Size

    Am replacing all the o-rings on my classic Mag (never used, still in box with video) and the power tip o-ring, well I can't find the same size in the spares pack.

    Is it an o-ring that needs replacing or not?

    If it does, what size is it and where can I get one (in the UK)?

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    offshore
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    it is a static oring and does nothing but hold the tip on.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  3. #3
    Ok, so it dosnt need to be replaced then.

    Cheers

    (Could you PM your postage rates to the UK please)

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    its also the hardest one I have ever replaced, before I found out they didn't have to be.

  5. #5
    Yeah, wasn't much fun, did make me wonder why 1 wasn't in the spares kit.

  6. #6

    Learned the hard way...

    Quote Originally Posted by Smudger View Post
    Am replacing all the o-rings on my classic Mag (never used, still in box with video) and the power tip o-ring, well I can't find the same size in the spares pack.

    Is it an o-ring that needs replacing or not?

    If it does, what size is it and where can I get one (in the UK)?

    Cheers
    Total nube paintballer and Automag/Minimag owner here, but had the same problem. I picked up a Minimag from a friend who hadn't used it in over ten years. Had a few oring/venting issues when I went to use it for the first time. I ordered the Automag/Minimag oring kit. When I started to do the rebuild I found out that the valve had the Level 10 upgrade. Well, being a nube, I didn't even know what a Level 10 upgrade was. All I knew was that the parts for the regulator and the on/off button fit just fine, but the stuff for the powertube just didn't match. Much research later, I realized that the standard Automag/Minimag oring kit doesn't include the Level 10 parts for the powertube. I guess this is because not all classic valves had been upgraded, and the reverse problem would exist for those folks if the oring kit had the Level 10 parts in it-just a guess. Anyhow, I got online with AGD and ordered the parts to do the "front half" of the valve, Level 10 parts: Powertube Tip orings, shims, carrier orings, powertube orings (goes inside the carrier), back washers. Works like a champ now. Just look under "Level 10 Parts" on AGD's website. There isn't a kit, you have to buy each part separately.
    So, the lesson I learned was to know what parts I needed. Check your powertube parts against one of the many parts diagrams out there and see if you have an earlier version of the powertube or the Level 10 kit on it. If you have a Level 10, get online and buy the rest of the parts.

    Hope this helped. I went through a week's worth of research to figure it all out.
    Last edited by bsmith61; 07-21-2014 at 12:59 AM.

  7. #7
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by bsmith61 View Post
    Total nube paintballer and Automag/Minimag owner here, but had the same problem. I picked up a Minimag from a friend who hadn't used it in over ten years. Had a few oring/venting issues when I went to use it for the first time. I ordered the Automag/Minimag oring kit. When I started to do the rebuild I found out that the valve had the Level 10 upgrade. Well, being a nube, I didn't even know what a Level 10 upgrade was. All I knew was that the parts for the regulator and the on/off button fit just fine, but the stuff for the powertube just didn't match. Much research later, I realized that the standard Automag/Minimag oring kit doesn't include the Level 10 parts for the powertube. I guess this is because not all classic valves had been upgraded, and the reverse problem would exist for those folks if the oring kit had the Level 10 parts in it-just a guess. Anyhow, I got online with AGD and ordered the parts to do the "front half" of the valve, Level 10 parts: Powertube Tip orings, shims, carrier orings, powertube orings (goes inside the carrier), back washers. Works like a champ now. Just look under "Level 10 Parts" on AGD's website. There isn't a kit, you have to buy each part separately.
    So, the lesson I learned was to know what parts I needed. Check your powertube parts against one the may parts diagrams out there and see if you have an earlier version of the powertube or the Level 10 kit on it. If you Have Level 10, get online and buy the rest of the parts.

    Hope this helped. I went through a weeks worth of research to figure it all out.
    really, you only needed the carrier o-rings (white one that goes inside, and possibly the little black one). you shouldn't have to replace the powertube tip o-rings unless they break or just disintegrate due to age.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude View Post
    really, you only needed the carrier o-rings (white one that goes inside, and possibly the little black one). you shouldn't have to replace the powertube tip o-rings unless they break or just disintegrate due to age.
    Well, all that goes to prove exactly how much of a newbie I really am!! Seriously though, I had read a lot about how enduring these things are, and I believe the hype. In fact, I'm a regular handgun shooter and would match the precision of my Minimag valve against the handguns I own any day. This is no toy, and is actually pretty incredible.

    So anyway, I had been replacing one oring or seat at a time and was getting frustrated at the the cascading effect of the failures. It seems that the previous owner had used heavy oil (and maybe not the right kind of oil, as most of the orings were brown instead of white) which negatively effected some of the orings, and some orings were almost powder-like (I read somewhere else that that was probably caused by liquid Co2 venting into the valve. I cured that by adding an expansion valve along with a 24 inch braided hose coiled twice before it goes into the regulator-I read that here too. This is a great forum.)

    Okay, so that's why I went ahead and replaced EVERYTHING that wasn't stainless steel or brass. I'm the new owner and figured I'd start from jump street. Trying to troubleshoot each and every oring failure along the valve as an inexperienced Minimag owner was getting me nowhere. Now that everything is new, if I have a failure, I should be able to track it down as a singular event instead of dealing with several potential failures at once.

    Thanks for the advice, though. It'll save me some money the next time around.

  9. #9
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by bsmith61 View Post
    Well, all that goes to prove exactly how much of a newbie I really am!! Seriously though, I had read a lot about how enduring these things are, and I believe the hype.
    no kidding...some of these markers are twenty years old, and still working fine!

    So anyway, I had been replacing one oring or seat at a time and was getting frustrated at the the cascading effect of the failures. It seems that the previous owner had used heavy oil (and maybe not the right kind of oil, as most of the orings were brown instead of white) which negatively effected some of the orings, and some orings were almost powder-like.
    this happens with age...the urethane o-rings will eventually turn brown and brittle on their own over the course of time.

    Okay, so that's why I went ahead and replaced EVERYTHING that wasn't stainless steel or brass. I'm the new owner and figured I'd start from jump street. Trying to troubleshoot each and every oring failure along the valve as an inexperienced Minimag owner was getting me nowhere. Now that everything is new, if I have a failure, I should be able to track it down as a singular event instead of dealing with several potential failures at once.

    Thanks for the advice, though. It'll save me some money the next time around.
    speaking of troubleshooting, have you watched this video yet? it should help you out with the basics...a good watch for every new 'mag owner.

    ha, kind of got off the original topic...i shall digress.

  10. #10

    When In Doubt, Watch The VIdeo

    Absolutely, I watched every minute of it. That's the only reason I still have my sanity! Watching him go through the troubleshooting cycle took me straight to my problem.

    In fact, pointing back to my earlier comment of 'as soon as I get the new carriers, the guy I bought the gun from will hand me a box of parts and say, "hey, look what I found in my attic last night!"', I watched that video over the weekend and fixed my problem; today, the guy brings his copy of the VHS video in and says, "here, this might help you out if you need to fix that gun!"

    I'm looking forward to working with it as I play more. In fact, another coworker told me at lunch today that he's got a RT at home that he used on the high school paintball team that his mother now wants out of her spare bedroom, along with the boxes of uniforms, masks, and other guns. I'm all over it!!

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Location
    offshore
    Posts
    8,514
    actually, the hardest one is the one on the Flatline air inlet check valve. That one is a biotch

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