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Thread: rusty , need to catch up , & pump problems

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb rusty , need to catch up , & pump problems

    been out of the tech game too long and staring to catch up

    can somebody provide me with a pic of a lvl 7 foamy bolt ? or a link to a pic ?
    What bolt is this ? Im assuming its a Lvl 7 foaminess ?
    Has anyone tried to cut away @ the triangle tip , to make it flat ,and glue on a foamie ?
    I feel that my bolt may be hitting to hard
    i just ordered detent's in case this one is worn , may have been contributing to the double feed i would also
    get once and awhile




  2. #2
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    Yeah, that's lvl 7 foamless. I think you'd need to mill it and that would be more expensive than just buying a foam lvl 7 bolt.

    edit: you can buy one from bacci for 2$
    http://www.baccipaintball.com/parts/...agd-bolts.html

    Last edited by Laku; 09-30-2014 at 12:16 PM.

  3. #3
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    Dude !!!! you totally rock
    That's exactly what i was looking for !
    Thanks

  4. #4
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    No problem. Glad I could help.

  5. #5
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    what he said. that bolt looks pretty well worn too. i've never had a problem with foamiless bolts, though. what issues are you having? a worn detent will certainly contribute to double (and triple!) feeding.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude View Post
    what he said. that bolt looks pretty well worn too. i've never had a problem with foamiless bolts, though. what issues are you having? a worn detent will certainly contribute to double (and triple!) feeding.
    Just got done sending paint through it today , an now its triple feeding , every 4th shot or so , i go back to the bench to look @ it,
    and i noticed i shot the plastic detent rite out of it .
    Are the metal ones better that the plastic ? I would think the plastic would be better on brittle paint no ?

  7. #7
    I definitely prefer the plastic detents, but they do wear after a while and yours does look worn across the top.
    I'd start by replacing your detent. The foamieless bolt shouldn't (in and of itself) be giving you any trouble unless it is too worn and is not catching reliably on the sear, but it doesn't look that bad yet.

  8. #8
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    The detent should be fine. Make sure the two orings are holding it in properly. If you are using small bore paint in a large bore barrel, you will have more issues, especially if you are using a force fed hopper. Some aftermarket barrels are worst than others as well depending on the depth of the cut for the detent. You can compensate a bit by wrapping some tape around the barrel where the back knob is located on the detent. That will push it farther into the barrel and help stop the smaller paint from rolling past it.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    The detent should be fine. Make sure the two orings are holding it in properly. If you are using small bore paint in a large bore barrel, you will have more issues, especially if you are using a force fed hopper. Some aftermarket barrels are worst than others as well depending on the depth of the cut for the detent. You can compensate a bit by wrapping some tape around the barrel where the back knob is located on the detent. That will push it farther into the barrel and help stop the smaller paint from rolling past it.
    hmmmmm i like the tape around the barrel method
    broke the last detent i had ( one in the pic )
    using a gravity revey , its a pump mag

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NU_METAL View Post
    hmmmmm i like the tape around the barrel method
    Be a sceptic, but it works and the tape isn't visible because it is at the back of the barrel and inside the body. It has been a proven method for years. There is no other method of adjusting the detent farther into the barrel unless you weld a piece of plastic onto the back nub of the nubbin.

    Since your using a gravity hopper, I would say your barrel is probably a large bore, as most twist lock barrels are, and todays paint is quite a bit smaller than it was years ago.

  11. #11
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    oh wait no , ha ha ha , ... this and this( hmmmmmm & ) was NOT meant as sarcasm , i really do like the idea

    im gonna try it as so as i get one
    oh and i am running a twistlock - freakback barrel .
    it does seem a bit big in there , compared to a cocker barrel

  12. #12
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    Are you getting frequent breaks when you fire, or is it just an issue of double/triple feeding? I'm having a similar problem with my pump using a gravity hopper, and I think there are two things going on. First, the foamie on my ANS venturi bolt is really worn down, which gives the ball maybe a bit too much fore/aft play. I also have a problem with an old detent and small paint, which not only results in double feeds but lots of half-fed chops.

    I'm thinking about moving over to a lvl 10, but I read that this can be a bit of a cumbersome tuning job because the power tube tip also has to be shortened to accommodate the further forward resting point of the bolt (pre pump).

    To answer your initial question, I think it's a really bad idea to mill out the metal fore-triangle (technical term :P) of the stock lvl 7 bolt. The length of these things is somewhat precise, and you risk drawing a second ball too far into the breech if you mill away some of the bolt length.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    Are you getting frequent breaks when you fire, or is it just an issue of double/triple feeding? I'm having a similar problem with my pump using a gravity hopper, and I think there are two things going on. First, the foamie on my ANS venturi bolt is really worn down, which gives the ball maybe a bit too much fore/aft play. I also have a problem with an old detent and small paint, which not only results in double feeds but lots of half-fed chops.

    I'm thinking about moving over to a lvl 10, but I read that this can be a bit of a cumbersome tuning job because the power tube tip also has to be shortened to accommodate the further forward resting point of the bolt (pre pump).

    To answer your initial question, I think it's a really bad idea to mill out the metal fore-triangle (technical term :P) of the stock lvl 7 bolt. The length of these things is somewhat precise, and you risk drawing a second ball too far into the breech if you mill away some of the bolt length.
    Zulu

    no breaks when it fire's , soon as i get new detents , ill report back
    Trying a few more things

  14. #14
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    I wouldn't go with a metal detent, the
    'v
    ' or loop type will wear and break and will lock up the bolt big time. plastic is a must. The plastic ones won't rip a big notch in your bolt either. A "Doc's" adapter will do the trick and give you way more barrel options. I
    'grew up" with these and feel the plastics are way more the way to go. also you can double 0-ring the back to get a better grip.
    I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Runamok View Post
    I wouldn't go with a metal detent, the
    'v
    ' or loop type will wear and break and will lock up the bolt big time. plastic is a must. The plastic ones won't rip a big notch in your bolt either. A "Doc's" adapter will do the trick and give you way more barrel options. I
    'grew up" with these and feel the plastics are way more the way to go. also you can double 0-ring the back to get a better grip.
    Run
    Thanks for the advice , i was wondering about the metal detents in that way
    had a DOCs an sold it , knew id need it again one day
    I assume the bore is a bit smaller on the Docs adapter ? then on a twistlock freakback ?
    Last edited by NU_METAL; 10-01-2014 at 05:06 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    Be a sceptic, but it works and the tape isn't visible because it is at the back of the barrel and inside the body. It has been a proven method for years. There is no other method of adjusting the detent farther into the barrel unless you weld a piece of plastic onto the back nub of the nubbin.

    Since your using a gravity hopper, I would say your barrel is probably a large bore, as most twist lock barrels are, and todays paint is quite a bit smaller than it was years ago.
    update
    so today i shot the same brittle paint , with a new plastic detent ,with a small piece of electrical tape , and it was flawless
    No breaks , no double and triple feeds ! and i haven't even installed the level 7 foamie bolt as it still has not arrived in mail yet

  17. #17
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    That's great that you got it shooting good. Thanks for posting the results. It helps others.

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