So after my foray into cockers I decided to see what mags were all about. Traded for an R/T mag and should be here by the end of the week. Any tips for a new comer to the mag community?
Paintball Historian
So after my foray into cockers I decided to see what mags were all about. Traded for an R/T mag and should be here by the end of the week. Any tips for a new comer to the mag community?
Puro Tico
Hide, lock your wallet or give it to your wife.
Drop some oil in before screwing in the tank, if airs up no leaks get out of the field to have fun.
Mags, tho...
Does it have a lvl 10 bolt?
Registered User
Classic RT or RT Pro?
If its the classic RT, get a parabolic powerfeed plug if it doesn't already have one.
Paintball Historian
No idea what bolt system it has. Previous owner hadn't used it in awhile. It is a classic RT. Did a little reading and saw about the powerfeed plug. Will have to get one.
This is what I got from the seller as a picture.
Registered User
how very true!Originally Posted by C_losjoker
it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up an rt parts kits as well while you're at it. to get the most out of those you'll need high pressure output from the tank. a ninja shp regulator on the tank would turn this into a machine gun; i think 950-1,000 psi would do nicely. just don't go too nuts with it or you can chip the sear. the rt classic sear has carbide inserts, and while it is hard and resists wear, it's also brittle and can chip.
Paintball Historian
Most fields around me limit BPS to 10-15 I think so a normal Ninja tank will do fine for me, plus I don' want to invest in a new tank/reg. AGD still the best place to get parts?
If I end up liking this I will likely upgrade to something else. Always liked the look of PTP stuff.
General mag questions:
1. What is an RTP sear?
2. Compatibility differences? I know some frames have "wings" vs. flat top but anything else to keep in mind? I think I read that a Classic R/T mag will only work with Classic R/T parts (body, rail, etc.)
3. What does a on/off on a mag do?
4. What does the ULT and powertube spacers really do?
5. Why is everything so dang expensive?
Registered User
Although most fields cap markers. Mags tend to fall thru the cap since they are not electronic markers. From what I've seen. As long as you don't cause an issue hosing opponents. No one will ever say a word about your mag.
Paintball Historian
And I'm one of the few that don't hose people without reason.
6. Any special type of oil to use or regular paintball oil like Gold Cup good enough?
Mags, tho...
And 6- regular paintball oil is perfect.Most fields around me limit BPS to 10-15 I think so a normal Ninja tank will do fine for me, plus I don' want to invest in a new tank/reg. AGD still the best place to get parts?
If I end up liking this I will likely upgrade to something else. Always liked the look of PTP stuff.
General mag questions:
1. What is an RTP sear? RTP = RT Pro, and is like your RT but compatible with mainstream automag parts. The sear is the part that holds the bolt back and also operates the on/off
2. Compatibility differences? I know some frames have "wings" vs. flat top but anything else to keep in mind? I think I read that a Classic R/T mag will only work with Classic R/T parts (body, rail, etc.) Classic RT bodies, rails, and valves will only work with classic RTs. Other Mags are fully modular. The classic RT has a gas thru rail that most mags don't have, so the rear screw is actually a banjo bolt
3. What does a on/off on a mag do? The on/off seals the chamber off from the regulator, so that the same amount of air is used each time you shoot. That's my understanding, anyways.
4. What does the ULT and powertube spacers really do? ULT makes the trigger pull lighter. Not sure what powertube spacers are really there for, but someone here will
5. Why is everything so dang expensive? not sure but it's worth it
Registered User
RTP= RT Pro--the RT sear is a different shape than the classic sear do to the difference shape of the bolt face and all RT's must use an RT sear to prevent wear.
the RT classic is a one off design, only RT classic parts will fit with exception of a couple of things. the wings refers to the grip frame that fits the old classic mag rails. all RT classic thru current ULE rails are flat on the bottom and take grip frames without wings
the on/off uses a pin that pushes the sear back to reset the trigger, it also shuts off air flow from the back half of the valve to the front, it is the source of most leaks in a mag as the o rings wear or get trash on them, the o rings are easy to change(anywhere on a mag) when needed. on an RT mag the pin length can be altered to affect the amount of RT effect you get but that is not always needed or wanted.
ULT stands for ultra light trigger which is supposed to lessen the trigger pull, it also will reduce the RT effect i'm told. the easiest way to get a softer trigger pull is to use a double trigger frame.
the power tube spacer goes in side the power tube on the classic valve to take the place of a tension spring, what it does is position the bolt in the correct spot to prevent leaks, if the bolt is too far back or too far forward it power tube will start to leak.
expensive compared to what? personally $1200.00 for a LUXE or a Dye Dam is nuts. compared to some of the newer markers which are made overseas yes they can be a little expensive. the Mag market is not near as big as the markets for the newer markers and with the design of some of the parts it takes a lot of time to mill the parts and that adds cost. the Mag and Cocker are the classic car of the paintball marker industry and like all toys they cost a little more.
welcome to the addiction that is the Automag
Registered User
Scotty Beans covered it in less words than I could.
somehow while I was typing all that I was logged of the forum and had to start all over.
https://www.automags.org/fo
same happened to me but you guys have it covered. Don't think you haven't bought a fine gun. The RT mag paved the way for some great markers.The design is over 20 years old and still scares the piss out of electro users . And it's still one of the best. Air tool oil is the same thing and easier to get.
Last edited by Runamok; 10-15-2014 at 04:59 PM.
I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?
either agd, or tunamart, or ansgear for some common things.
is it the sear that comes in newer rt pros, ule automags and tac-1 automags, and is fully compatible with the automag rt classic.1. What is an RTP sear?
you are correct, the rt classic is it's own beast. the rt classic valve, body and rail are all meant to go together, and are not compatible with other automags. frames with wings are meant for classic automag rails, and will not fit rt classic, rt pro, emag or ule rails without having the wings milled off.2. Compatibility differences? I know some frames have "wings" vs. flat top but anything else to keep in mind? I think I read that a Classic R/T mag will only work with Classic R/T parts (body, rail, etc.)
controls the flow of air within the automag valve.3. What does a on/off on a mag do?
the ult on/off reduces the pull weight of the trigger, at the expense of a lot of the reactivity the stock rt on/off has. the ult on/off is not compatible with the rt classic and older rt pros without having the valve milled to accommodate the ult. powertube spacers go in the powertube and are used with lvl 7 bolts. they come in different sizes and adjust the point at which the powertube o-ring seals against the bolt stem. the longer the powertube spacer, the further back on the bolt stem the o-ring sits. the shorter the spacer, the further up the o-ring sits, which can cause excess friction. you really shouldn't have to worry about this; as long as you have a spacer you're good to go. most of my automags have a .215 or .220 spacer in them.4. What does the ULT and powertube spacers really do?
this level of craftsmanship and quality are not cheap. there is a reason 20-year-old automags still work today, with just a change of a few o-rings and / or a few drops of oil in the asa.5. Why is everything so dang expensive?
as for which oil to use, any synthetic oil is fine.
Paintball Historian
Thanks for all the info guys. Just to clarify, a lot of my questions are about mags in general, not just pertaining to the Classic RT mag. Pretty excited to join in on the fun of owning a mag.
As for everything being so expensive I guess has to do more with the fact that yes a lot of it is all custom but with a smaller buying pool. Was looking at bodies today and some were as high as $200 and with my limited knowledge not much different than stock bodies. Similarly a simple cocker body could be had for well under $100 but that is with a higher buying pool. Supply and demand at its finest. Either way I've accumulated a few ideas to add to my paintball projects list.
Mags, tho...
Yeah, the expensive bodies are really expensive, and the cheap bodies are really cheap. I like to think of it as "there's something for everyone". I usually stick to regular ULE bodies since they do the whole "lightweight, center feed, cocker threaded" thing so right at a pretty affordable price. About $100 or so, usually.
Maybe someday I'll buy or build a sweet custom bodied mag though, who knows?
Last edited by ScottyBeans; 10-16-2014 at 02:35 PM.
Paintball Historian
Light weight will be my next step if I end up really liking the RT. At least something that is center feed and cocker threaded. Already have a sweet freak barrel for all my cocker threaed guns, don't want to hunt around for one that is twist lock.
you're out of luck if that's what you want to do with a classic rt. remember the whole "incompatible with other automags" stuff? you could try to find one of xmagterror's ule classic rt bodies though. also, you can get a twistlock-to-cocker adapter for your automag, so you can use 'cocker threaded barrels.
Registered User
I've actually got a full TL freak kit in case for sale. Lol.
In all seriousness. You really can't do a lot to Lighten a classic RT. I love mine. But due to the body design and air passage in the rail it makes for curve balls.
Hebrews 13:8
Got a classic RT project going myself.
I have a twist lock to cocker thread adapter, and a clamping feedneck for powerfeed that I'm not going to use.
Decided to get an XMT body instead.
LMK
Paintball Historian
Classic RT is just the first mag. If I end up liking the way it shoots I'll upgrade to something else. Not saying I'm going to try and do stuff to this one.
Puro Tico
HAHA HAHAHA. I think we have all said this about a mag at one time to ourselves. Then it's, oh I rather have a double or single trigger frame, oh that piece is exactly what I need to complement my mag. Next thing you know, you have ten mags.
on the behalf of everyone here welcome to the group and we apologize on your new addiction.
Paintball Historian
Haha thanks for the welcomes everyone. I definitely know the wallet squeeze from building cockers. This gun will definitely be mainly stock. Any changes will purely be for function. Already had to remove the drop and on/off since my tank with a myth reg was too short and couldn't screw it in.
New questions: could barely get the gun to RT very fast before i start seeing shootdown. Any ideas? And how do I tell what bolt i have? It has the foamie insert but besides that I don't know.
Registered User
If the bolt stem is hollow and there's wrench removable tip in power tube, it's lvl 10.
Puro Tico
Mags are air hogs, to keep the valve up with trigger pull specially in a RT, you need a high output tank. 900 min, 1000 is what most guys go for when they want to RT and have high RPS.
take the valve out, take the bolt off, if the tip of the valve has a hexagon brass tip it is level 10, if it has a brass tip that is round with two cut grooves where a flat screw driver will fit, it is level 7.
Paintball Historian
Sweet got a level 10 bolt. Powertube has the hex head and bolt stem is hollow. I knew mags want SHP but I figured standard 850PSI would be able to RT relatively ok but guess not.
How should I oil the mag? Just standard few drops into the ASA and cycle or pull the valve and oil by hand?
Best recommendation for a feed elbow? Heard good things about Armson and APP elbows I think.
Registered User
With a very high flowing valve that will make one rt decent. But the level 10 hi ders that from my experience. I personally use a classic rt with a level 7 bolt and a ninja v2 pro bottle reg set with an indicated 850 output. It RTS plenty to make me happy. And I know it will rt like mad with 1k input. My wife's rt on the other hand has a level 10 in it and does not really rt at all with 850 psi output.
I oil mine through the ASA with the barrel removed unless I'm pulling the valve for other reasons.
Arms on elbows are cheap and work great. I've got a few of them as backups for when I finally break my 20 year old VLBow.
my classic rt's never had much bounce at 850 psi, even with lvl 7 bolts. even at 950 psi they don't really bounce. maybe i just need to break the o-rings in since they're new? my rt pro and x-valves worked great at 950 psi though.
2nd on armson elbows, but loaders with huge feednecks (halo, vmax, rotor) won't fit without sanding them down. a viewloader revolution fits nice and snug, you just have to loosen the bolt all the way. do not get the 1" universal; the inserts they include for those to fit onto 7/8" od necks are too fat. i had to shave down all of my inserts in order to get the elbow onto a 7/8 od neck.
U R techno-literate!
So, what kind of tank are you feeding it with? Sorry if it's posted in here.
I have met an 850 psi, CP regged bottle that wouldn't keep up with an EPmag on limp. The older HP crossfires that are closer to 800 psi typically keep up, but they usually won't drive the RT much at all. A 950 psi Ninja is just right for my three RT/X setups (at slightly different rates). I had some adjustable regs, but now I change the marker instead of the pressure.
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