WTB 90° ASA adapter

[flampaint]

I'm looking for something which I am not even sure exists...
It would have to be a type of "adapter" with which I can mount an ASA parallel to the barrell (in front of my trigger and onto the rail, obviously)
It's for my little pistolmag (picture attched) which right now has a vertical ASA - in order to make it sleeker I want to rotate that ASA for the 12g CO2 cartridges by 90°.
Does someone have something they could help me with??
I'm close to putting a hole + thread in another ASA just to see if that would work ...
Thanks for any help or ideas you might have!

[need4reebs]

yeah man they exist…either custom or mod something yourself.

[BigEvil]

They do, and yes I have one. Can you have it? I don't know

[Cummins1290]

Drill and tap the side of it, it'll mount up horizontal

[flampaint]

They do, and yes I have one. Can you have it? I don't know

can I have one?? I'll pay with my soul if need be!

[flampaint]

Drill and tap the side of it, it'll mount up horizontal

That's what I'm considering doing I just don't want to mess up my ASA. I know it's just an ASA, but even those are not easy to come by here in Europe ...

[Cummins1290]

That's what I'm considering doing I just don't want to mess up my ASA. I know it's just an ASA, but even those are not easy to come by here in Europe ...

I was going to say, they're not much here on ebay.
I drilled and tapped mine, works great! Just be careful not to go too deep because it could put a hole into where the co2 comes out and spray out of where you tapped, I have that done and had to order another, but it works out great!

[bowcycle]

The flat duckbill ASA's are my new favorite way to do the Horizontal ASA. The holes in them are already the perfect size to be tapped 1/4"-20 which is the screw size for foregrips on AM/MM rails.

If you don't mind drilling a second mounting hole in the rail shown in the original post, tap both holes on the duckbill and it will be as firm as you could ever wish.

the duckbills have a slight radius from the flat part to the ASA, but even a little bit of dremeling can square that off so it sits tight on your rail and looks sweet.

Here's one of mine done this way. The foregrip mount on this is purely aesthetic and has nothing to do with the H-ASA being secure.

[bowcycle]

Here's one with the V-ASA just drilled and tapped for a 10/32 screw.

Line it up on your rail first. Your best bet is if the ASA sits snug against the trigger frame with the 1/4" NPT hole still well in front of the mounting hole in the rail. This one worked well on a tac-1 rail, but not so well on the am/mm rails. That's why you can see the spacer in the pic. I needed to fill that gap to make it sit tight.

Mine is drilled all the way through, but back far enough so that the airway isn't compromised. And then it's tapped all the way through for 10/32. If it is not sitting snug against the trigger frame it has a little wiggle, but very little.




and so you can better see the relation of the holes:

[flampaint]

The flat duckbill ASA's are my new favorite way to do the Horizontal ASA. The holes in them are already the perfect size to be tapped 1/4"-20 which is the screw size for foregrips on AM/MM rails.

If you don't mind drilling a second mounting hole in the rail pictures, tap both holes on the duckbill and it will be as firm as you could ever wish.

the duckbills have a slight radius from the flat part to the ASA, but even a little bit of dremeling can square that off so it sits tight on your rail and looks sweet.

that's a nice solution as well! so simple yet effective that it makes you wonder why you didn't think of it yourself!duh... (I have one lying here so I'll be trying that in the next few days!)
Thanks!

[Cummins1290]

Here's one with the V-ASA just drilled and tapped for a 10/32 screw.

Line it up on your rail first. Your best bet is if the ASA sits snug against the trigger frame with the 1/4" NPT hole still well in front of the mounting hole in the rail. This one worked well on a tac-1 rail, but not so well on the am/mm rails. That's why you can see the spacer in the pic. I needed to fill that gap to make it sit tight.

Mine is drilled all the way through, but back far enough so that the airway isn't compromised. And then it's tapped all the way through for 10/32. If it is not sitting snug against the trigger frame it has a little wiggle, but very little.




and so you can better see the relation of the holes:

Do you get any play with one screw? I ended up using two just in case, just curious if I end up building another

[bowcycle]

Do you get any play with one screw? I ended up using two just in case, just curious if I end up building another

I used a long screw (1.5") and that gives it plenty of room to really snug it up. Again, on a tac-1 rail, using the hole furthest back, it sat right against the trigger frame and had no play at all. On the AM rail, it is too far forward and so I used a spacer between the trigger guard and the ASA so that it wouldn't have room to move around.

I did not flatten the top side of the ASA, but if you did that and gave it more surface-area contact with the rail, you wouldn't ever have to worry about it; even with just one screw.

[bowcycle]

that's a nice solution as well! so simple yet effective that it makes you wonder why you didn't think of it yourself!duh... (I have one lying here so I'll be trying that in the next few days!)
Thanks!

I saw the mods Reebs did and thought, "surely I have something sitting around that can accomplish that same purpose." When I picked up a duckbill and saw that the holes were just right for the 1/4-20 tap, I knew I had it. I've done 3 of them now: 2 that are full-length and 1 cut down to sit flat against the trigger guard on an AM rail.

It's just too easy not to do.
Keep one on hand and in the time it takes to strip down your mag, you can turn it into a pistol.

[Cummins1290]

I used a long screw (1.5") and that gives it plenty of room to really snug it up. Again, on a tac-1 rail, using the hole furthest back, it sat right against the trigger frame and had no play at all. On the AM rail, it is too far forward and so I used a spacer between the trigger guard and the ASA so that it wouldn't have room to move around.

I did not flatten the top side of the ASA, but if you did that and gave it more surface-area contact with the rail, you wouldn't ever have to worry about it; even with just one screw.

Ah, ok. I guess I used two screws for my own piece of mind I guess haha, still does the same job