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Thread: Pneumatic maintenance/tuning *updated*

  1. #1
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    Pneumatic maintenance/tuning *updated*

    For pneumags with the MSV-2 kit , or similar
    what is (if there is any ) the maintenance / lube for it ?
    Oil ?
    what type ?
    dow 55
    nothing
    etc,....

    Im ready to bench my pneumag today and once again memory has failed me LOL
    Im like " do i just leave it be "
    all you pneumatic and pnue/electro people post up please
    any opinions & advice would be helpful
    thanks
    Last edited by NU_METAL; 11-20-2014 at 07:13 PM.

  2. #2
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    I've always just dropped some oil in the ASA, even for my pneumags. It'll get where it needs to go is my theory. lol.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I've always just dropped some oil in the ASA, even for my pneumags. It'll get where it needs to go is my theory. lol.
    ^ that's how I figured it as well.

  4. #4
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    Dont take the MSV2 apart, they never seem to work right again. Running some oil through the system should do the job. Depending what type of LPR you are using, you might want to do a more detailed service. If it's a Tickler/Bullet, its good to take them apart and clean and relube them. If it's a micro rock just leave it, it will outlive you.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the reply's guys , i like to verify if im not sure
    i was about to add a few drop and was like " maybe i should ask " ?

    Running a Palmers micro rock , and i have a DP Raps 2 asa ( i cant add oil to directly ) cuz it thins out the Dow on the O ring
    Ill just add it down the line somewhere

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    How do you have the LPR set, i.e. is it a sleeper or is it stand alone? Is there a way you could pit oil directly into the LPR, like in the air feeding the LPR? I am unfamiliar with the maintenance of the DAPs ASA, but if its easier to lube, then i would choose the lesser of 2 evils & add oil directly into the ASA.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    How do you have the LPR set, i.e. is it a sleeper or is it stand alone? Is there a way you could pit oil directly into the LPR, like in the air feeding the LPR? I am unfamiliar with the maintenance of the DAPs ASA, but if its easier to lube, then i would choose the lesser of 2 evils & add oil directly into the ASA.
    Its a sleeper so yeah i added gold cup to the inlet underneath the Batt cover , still in build stage , Anodizing is next









    Stupid question ,.... i cant seem to dial it in perfectly , its either full runaway auto the minute you touch trigger , or when i turn down LPR ,its not strong enough to fire ,so you here that low pressure thump .

  8. #8
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    Any oil added to the ASA will go all the way through the valve and any path leading to the valve. It is always a good way to add oil. You just have to remember to shoot out the excess before you put your barrel on or you will have bad accuracy issues do to an oil coating on the inside of your barrel.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    Any oil added to the ASA will go all the way through the valve and any path leading to the valve. It is always a good way to add oil. You just have to remember to shoot out the excess before you put your barrel on or you will have bad accuracy issues do to an oil coating on the inside of your barrel.
    cant add oil directly to an D.P. Raps 2 asa , tryed it . It thins out the Dow55 lubed O ring ,then Oring tears, causing a massive ASA leak
    I just add it to Lukes manifold inlet .(only on this particular Pneumag ) That seamed to do the trick .thanks for advice though , normaly you are correct about that .


    true , i always forget the oil coated barrel accuracy thing

  10. #10
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    what on/off pin should i go with on this ? .750 is in it now
    Stupid question ,.... i cant seem to dial it in well , its either full runaway auto the minute you touch trigger , or when i turn down LPR ,its not strong enough to fire ,so you here that low pressure thump . has anyone ever tryed putting a spring at the back of the sear ? because it seems like its bouncing off the piston , going into full auto . As it is rite now , i cant single shot it . Backed velocity way down also .
    thanks

  11. #11
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    With your setup, unhook the macro out of the ASA and out a few drops of oil in the line. Then shoot it through. It will lube the pnuematic parts enough. Basically you want to hit anything with lube before the pneumatics.

  12. #12
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    I was having the same problem with my pneumag on the luke's mini vert frame... position of the ram?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NU_METAL View Post
    cant add oil directly to an D.P. Raps 2 asa , tryed it . It thins out the Dow55 lubed O ring ,then Oring tears, causing a massive ASA leak
    That usually means the oring is not a high enough durometer rating and stretches during use. Usually, a moving oring only needs to be wet to work properly if it is sized properly and the tolerances were designed properly. The reason one uses Dow55 over regular liquid lubricant is because it sticks better. Since you add oil each time you play, it shouldn't be an issue because the oring will always stay wet. However, it is often just easier to avoid the issue and add the oil past that part. That way you don't need to change orings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Thanks for that informative post there Scott. Still trying for that 10k huh?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dayspring View Post
    Thanks for that informative post there Scott. Still trying for that 10k huh?


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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Dang Scott , you got old quick ! LOL

    Who is this dude? I don't recognize the face

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    Quote Originally Posted by NU_METAL View Post
    Dang Scott , you got old quick ! LOL

    Who is this dude? I don't recognize the face
    Google "FHRITP"

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Google "FHRITP"
    jameis winston!

    that one might be lost on the non-sports people out there...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by NU_METAL View Post
    Its a sleeper so yeah i added gold cup to the inlet underneath the Batt cover , still in build stage , Anodizing is next









    Stupid question ,.... i cant seem to dial it in perfectly , its either full runaway auto the minute you touch trigger , or when i turn down LPR ,its not strong enough to fire ,so you here that low pressure thump .
    More pressure.

    The LPR is only giving you enough pressure to RT the trigger, that is why there is run away. if you can't get more pressure then either change LPRs or use a tiny spacer to add tension to the internal spring on the LPR. This is a trick I use when a tickler just won't get me the pressure I need.

    Guard this secret with your life. I have never ever divulged this trick before. I have more that will never be shared!

    By the way, you should have a little more room between the ram and the sear, this will make it more "walk-able".
    ......You know you want one!!

  21. #21
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    I knew that the man pic was that "FHITP", or Tuna... hell, i am not 1k in posts, and I've been here longer than both of you

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    I knew that the man pic was that "FHITP", or Tuna... hell, i am not 1k in posts, and I've been here longer than both of you
    We gotta get Tuna on video saying "EFF HER RIGHT IN THE BACK BOTTLE ASA"

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    We gotta get Tuna on video saying "EFF HER RIGHT IN THE BACK BOTTLE ASA"
    YES, we need to do this!!!!

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