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Thread: ULE Body with snap on stock class feed tube?

  1. #91
    Quote Originally Posted by bowcycle View Post
    There's been a lot of buzz on here lately about warpless feeds.
    I'm thinking this would work great on a ULE version of TheJackal's MOTM entry or that it could be a good q-loader adapter.
    Your thoughts on that?
    not sure anything can be done, just takes time

  2. #92
    little delay, my printer wanted to start on fire last night so ill have to just check some stuff before I move forward

  3. #93
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    Time to buy another one.....



  4. #94
    im starting the new printer up tonight.
    havnt done anything with it since I got it

  5. #95
    ABS, the orange...
    is more flexible than the PLA I was using, still holds the body the way I intend it too.
    remember if this was meant to be anymore difficult to remove from the body than it is, it would wear the body finish very quickly.


  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    ABS, the orange...
    is more flexible than the PLA I was using, still holds the body the way I intend it too.
    remember if this was meant to be anymore difficult to remove from the body than it is, it would wear the body finish very quickly.
    It looks really solid, actually. And it would appear that the CCI feed tube is positioned almost perfectly to accommodate the "speed feed" just aft of the valve/reg. Looking forward to seeing the test results/reviews for how it holds up in play, but I think it will probably do just fine given how little extra weight it will have to bear when loaded.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    It looks really solid, actually. And it would appear that the CCI feed tube is positioned almost perfectly to accommodate the "speed feed" just aft of the valve/reg. Looking forward to seeing the test results/reviews for how it holds up in play, but I think it will probably do just fine given how little extra weight it will have to bear when loaded.
    Buy a CCI 15 Rd stickfeed and cut it down to your liking. Thats what I have done on the stainless stockclass conversions I have done.
    Quote Originally Posted by dano_____ View Post
    I keep forgetting to not feed my mags after midnight so they seem to multiply regularly.

  8. #98
    oh now who to send some tests too?

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    oh now who to send some tests too?
    I'd love to be a tester, but it'll be about two weeks before I can even think about getting out on the field.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    oh now who to send some tests too?
    Up to you, but if you need someone PM me. I'll be able to test. Also, depending on your time frame, I'll be at Living Legends May 15-17 and can use it as my primary both days.

  11. #101
    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    Up to you, but if you need someone PM me. I'll be able to test. Also, depending on your time frame, I'll be at Living Legends May 15-17 and can use it as my primary both days.
    shoot me your addy and screen name,

    ** people testing will need a cci tube to thread into this item, this may change if these are offered to the public

    I need 2 more people to test.

  12. #102
    two testers have shipped. sorry they prolly wont get to you guys for play this weekend.
    I tried.

  13. #103
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    Got it yesterday, Thanks KNM!. Should be able to set it up and plink in the backyard a little tonight. Then off to the field this weekend. Will post updates after each use.

  14. #104
    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    Got it yesterday, Thanks KNM!. Should be able to set it up and plink in the backyard a little tonight. Then off to the field this weekend. Will post updates after each use.
    sounds good.

  15. #105
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    got it yesterday as well. unfortunately i have an un-plinkable back yard (condos).

    should be out on the field to test it the weekend after this though; will report back.

  16. #106
    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    got it yesterday as well. unfortunately i have an un-plinkable back yard (condos).

    should be out on the field to test it the weekend after this though; will report back.
    I guess my advise is to just do whatever. you break it you break it you know...

  17. #107
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    at first tinker, it seems pretty damn solid. I was almost worried it was going to scratch my ULE, until I remembered that it was made of plastic. It snaps on very solidly.

  18. #108
    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    at first tinker, it seems pretty damn solid. I was almost worried it was going to scratch my ULE, until I remembered that it was made of plastic. It snaps on very solidly.
    if you get dirt or a small rock or something between the part and your ULE it might scratch it, when putting it on and such.

  19. #109
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    Got to shoot a little last night.
    Installation was a breeze. Snapped it on no problem. Shot about 10 rounds in the backyard. Between each shot I tipped the gun forward about 30 degrees to make sure a ball would roll into the chamber. No misfires, ball breaks, or any issue at all.
    This weekend I will play live action with it.
    the only thing I noticed after i was done shooting... their is a little side to side play with the piece. the "wings" do not come all the way down to the top of the rail. Not sure if the design called for this for a specific reason. I'm not sure if its a issue either. my only thought are, while playing if the piece does shift to one side, will it effect the balls feeding (shrink the size of the feedneck hole by covering a small portion of it). When i play this weekend ill shoot some balls with the piece shifted on purpose to see if this is even a issue.

  20. #110
    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    Got to shoot a little last night.
    Installation was a breeze. Snapped it on no problem. Shot about 10 rounds in the backyard. Between each shot I tipped the gun forward about 30 degrees to make sure a ball would roll into the chamber. No misfires, ball breaks, or any issue at all.
    This weekend I will play live action with it.
    the only thing I noticed after i was done shooting... their is a little side to side play with the piece. the "wings" do not come all the way down to the top of the rail. Not sure if the design called for this for a specific reason. I'm not sure if its a issue either. my only thought are, while playing if the piece does shift to one side, will it effect the balls feeding (shrink the size of the feedneck hole by covering a small portion of it). When i play this weekend ill shoot some balls with the piece shifted on purpose to see if this is even a issue.
    yeah I purposely left that side to side play in,
    that can be taken up easily enough.

    thank you,
    and keep the input coming.

  21. #111
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    So played for half a day Sunday with it. Shot about 100-200 rounds during live play. The 'Side to side' movement the piece has, did not effect the feeding of balls in any way. I had no issues of any kind. The feed worked great and as expected. It just straight up worked. Very happy with it. Will be making arrangements for purchasing the set up KMM sent me. I will continue to use it. If anything negative, unexpected, etc. happens I will update this post. But going forward if you don't hear from me it means I am happy and all is good!

  22. #112
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    I still haven't had a chance to actually play with it, but I've been tinkering with mine quite a bit. This includes smacking it and twisting it to see just how resilient it is (though what I've done far exceeds the abuse I'd actually expect it to survive from the way I play, particularly given how it is positioned).

    The good news is that the thing holds up just fine. Being smacked sideways with enough force does result in it popping off of the body, but even tumbling through the air and striking my floor from standing height does no visible damage to it. Keep in mind that the force required to actually knock it off has to be aimed just right, and required winding up for a forehanded slap. You'd have to break your ass to generate enough force to get it to pop off in a game, unless your opponent was sneaky enough to come up and b*** slap your marker. That is to say it stays on just as it should, but is also super straightforward (though requires a bit of force) to take off.

    I've also been feeding balls through it and testing the side to side movement, but there don't seem to be any issues with feeding. The movement is really minimal, too, maybe 1-2° of rotation. It always looks like it's right on center.

    The only "shortcoming" is the totally understandable absence of threads to receive the CCI feed tube. Hence, you're basically cutting threads into the plastic with the CCI feed tube. This works for a while, but I worry that over time the plastic may stretch or these cut threads will wear a bit, particularly if there is force applied to the back end of the feed tube from side to side or up/down. The quick fix appears to be using some epoxy to fuse the feed tube to the mounting bracket.

    Overall all, this is an amazingly simple and sophisticated way to make any ULE mag stock class. It looks awesome and works exactly as it should. And it's feasible that you could yank the thing off and put on a feed neck/hopper in about 20-30 seconds, making it VERY easy to switch between stock and open class play formats between (or even during) a game.

    In terms of functional improvements, there aren't really any obvious ones for the core functionality of the product (read: it works exactly as it should). Some added features that would be interesting to consider might include:
    • C clips on either side to hold 10 rd tubes
    • Dovetail on the top to accommodate mounting a sight of some sort (armson pro-dot maybe?)

    From a cosmetic perspective, it fits in really well with the functional design factor of AGD. I would imagine it could come in a number of colors, but black suited my needs perfectly. The only cosmetic shortfall comes from the 3D printing process, where you can see the bead lines pretty clearly and there are a few places where the surface gets quite rough. However, this is easily remedied with some fine grit sandpaper for those that think such things are necessary.

    I too will be making arrangements to purchase the kit KNM sent me, and I'll be looking forward to see if he also comes up with a version that accommodates the cram-n-jam approach to stock class play.

    Also a PS for those thinking about warpless feeds: The thing can easily be flipped the other direction (so the feed is facing forwards) like a longbow/qbow adapter. This could make it an excellent candidate for warpless feed options as long as there was a 90° elbow available. That said, two 90° elbows that close to one another may make for some chunky feeding, especially if the distance between them wasn't tuned. KNM's bracket isn't a true 90° corner, it's more of a curved tube, so there's a bit of comfort there.
    Last edited by zulubravo44; 04-28-2015 at 09:38 AM.

  23. #113
    Quote Originally Posted by zulubravo44 View Post
    I still haven't had a chance to actually play with it, but I've been tinkering with mine quite a bit. This includes smacking it and twisting it to see just how resilient it is (though what I've done far exceeds the abuse I'd actually expect it to survive from the way I play, particularly given how it is positioned).

    The good news is that the thing holds up just fine. Being smacked sideways with enough force does result in it popping off of the body, but even tumbling through the air and striking my floor from standing height does no visible damage to it. Keep in mind that the force required to actually knock it off has to be aimed just right, and required winding up for a forehanded slap. You'd have to break your ass to generate enough force to get it to pop off in a game, unless your opponent was sneaky enough to come up and b*** slap your marker. That is to say it stays on just as it should, but is also super straightforward (though requires a bit of force) to take off.

    I've also been feeding balls through it and testing the side to side movement, but there don't seem to be any issues with feeding. The movement is really minimal, too, maybe 1-2° of rotation. It always looks like it's right on center.

    The only "shortcoming" is the totally understandable absence of threads to receive the CCI feed tube. Hence, you're basically cutting threads into the plastic with the CCI feed tube. This works for a while, but I worry that over time the plastic may stretch or these cut threads will wear a bit, particularly if there is force applied to the back end of the feed tube from side to side or up/down. The quick fix appears to be using some epoxy to fuse the feed tube to the mounting bracket.
    the cci tube is tapered as is the area the tube is threading into, so that would limit some of the concerns.
    but I do see what you are saying especially if you are threading the cci tube in and out a lot.
    not sure of a remedy for that yet. might not need it.


    Overall all, this is an amazingly simple and sophisticated way to make any ULE mag stock class. It looks awesome and works exactly as it should. And it's feasible that you could yank the thing off and put on a feed neck/hopper in about 20-30 seconds, making it VERY easy to switch between stock and open class play formats between (or even during) a game.

    In terms of functional improvements, there aren't really any obvious ones for the core functionality of the product (read: it works exactly as it should). Some added features that would be interesting to consider might include:
    • C clips on either side to hold 10 rd tubes
    • Dovetail on the top to accommodate mounting a sight of some sort (armson pro-dot maybe?)

    these items can sure be added to the design. also working on incorporating into the design to be able to just shove your 10 rnd tube in, and have that be the feed.

    From a cosmetic perspective, it fits in really well with the functional design factor of AGD. I would imagine it could come in a number of colors, but black suited my needs perfectly. The only cosmetic shortfall comes from the 3D printing process, where you can see the bead lines pretty clearly and there are a few places where the surface gets quite rough. However, this is easily remedied with some fine grit sandpaper for those that think such things are necessary.
    as those where prototypes I printed them as low res as possible, if/when these become avail ill print in a higher res to reduce the visible layers and such issues.

    I too will be making arrangements to purchase the kit KNM sent me, and I'll be looking forward to see if he also comes up with a version that accommodates the cram-n-jam approach to stock class play.

    Also a PS for those thinking about warpless feeds: The thing can easily be flipped the other direction (so the feed is facing forwards) like a longbow/qbow adapter. This could make it an excellent candidate for warpless feed options as long as there was a 90° elbow available. That said, two 90° elbows that close to one another may make for some chunky feeding, especially if the distance between them wasn't tuned. KNM's bracket isn't a true 90° corner, it's more of a curved tube, so there's a bit of comfort there.

    thankyou very much for the input guys.
    ill be tweeking the rotation of the adapter, so that it is minimized just a bit more.
    and go over some other stuff.

  24. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    thankyou very much for the input guys.
    ill be tweeking the rotation of the adapter, so that it is minimized just a bit more.
    and go over some other stuff.
    Just one last thing on the threads eventually wearing out: I don't think there's any reason to address this issue in the design, as the plastic will always eventually wear out if it is threaded. Building in some kind of aluminum threaded collar is a waste of time and effort, since epoxy can sort this out just fine. All that to say I think the design is great, and it shouldn't be expected to be more than it is, given that you're 3d printing it in plastic!

  25. #115
    I can't wait for these to work the kinks out. I'd like a couple black ones.

  26. #116
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    Here it is all set up. I originally had a 15 rd CCI tube on there, but it pressed against the lens of my mask when I aimed it. So, I cut about 1.5" from the back to get the fit just right.

    Name:  IMG_2836.jpg
Views: 129
Size:  126.1 KB

    It holds 12 with a tiny bit of wiggle room now (counting one in the chamber).

    Everyone with a ULE pump mag ought to get one of these set ups so they can jump into SC and modified SC play. It feels so sneaky...
    Last edited by zulubravo44; 04-29-2015 at 12:35 PM.

  27. #117
    working on printing some on the dual extruder printer. we will see how that one does.
    should be good to go.
    any major changes?

  28. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    working on printing some on the dual extruder printer. we will see how that one does.
    should be good to go.
    any major changes?
    can't think of a thing that needs a change if this bit about higher resolution printing is true. still working like a charm despite my constant fidgeting with it.

  29. #119
    I can try to get these made for people if they want them.
    but I will not be making them.

    I am selling all the 3D printing stuff.

    stuff just happened and I will be selling a lot of stuff.

  30. #120
    pm sent, want two in black

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