Q-Loader Mounting on Warp Body

[G Squat]

I'm in the process of building a mag and want to do a q-loader setup. I'd really like to do a warp left body and have the loader direct mounted and pointing down the side going back, like in the picture. I understand mounting may be an issue, but is there a way someone here knows of that I can secure the loader in this position on a mag? I do not wan't any hose or to have it mounted anywhere else going in any other direction.

[GoatBoy]

I've never been fond of this setup for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that you're reloading into your face.



The problem is pretty much all the AGD bodies/rails are not made with modding in mind. (Neither are the Q-Loader sockets for that matter.) Closest would be a Tac One, and even then picatinny bits still aren't in the right place for this.

Easiest and dirtiest way to get this done the way you want would probably be to "attach" (*cough*) a side picatinny cowl/shroud to the body, then use the "RIS Rail Adapter" to mount the Q-Loader to the cowl.

Or glue a mating cowl piece to the socket and slide that into place.

Remember where your air line is as well; depending on which side you want the Q-Loader on, you may need to reorient or get a reverse valve.

And also note that the breech on an Automag sits further back than marker like what you've pictured. It sits pretty much over the trigger. Since you want direct feed, that means that's where the socket is. So imagine moving that entire assembly backwards.

[G Squat]

I've never been fond of this setup for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that you're reloading into your face.



The problem is pretty much all the AGD bodies/rails are not made with modding in mind. (Neither are the Q-Loader sockets for that matter.) Closest would be a Tac One, and even then picatinny bits still aren't in the right place for this.

Easiest and dirtiest way to get this done the way you want would probably be to "attach" (*cough*) a side picatinny cowl/shroud to the body, then use the "RIS Rail Adapter" to mount the Q-Loader to the cowl.

Or glue a mating cowl piece to the socket and slide that into place.

Remember where your air line is as well; depending on which side you want the Q-Loader on, you may need to reorient or get a reverse valve.

And also note that the breech on an Automag sits further back than marker like what you've pictured. It sits pretty much over the trigger. Since you want direct feed, that means that's where the socket is. So imagine moving that entire assembly backwards.

Thanks for the response. I had considered the fact that I may need to go with a tac body to achieve what I have in mind. It looks like if I were to get that adapter and the q bracket that points forward, I should be pretty close to where I want to be with a little modding necessary. As for the air hose, I'll be using an AGD back bottle asa. No prob there. If anyone had any pics of mags with a similar setup, I'd love to see'em.

[Syko89]

Easiest way I can think of with out permanent changes to the rail. Use a rt pro rail and utilize the screw holes on the side of the rail and fabricate a bracket of some kind. I would think that you would want it not right on the body so it's easier to grab

[cockerpunk]

do you have any experience with Q loader? mine has been decidedly ... mixed.

[G Squat]

Easiest way I can think of with out permanent changes to the rail. Use a rt pro rail and utilize the screw holes on the side of the rail and fabricate a bracket of some kind. I would think that you would want it not right on the body so it's easier to grab

That's a great idea, but I'm running a back bottle so I'd need a classic rail.

do you have any experience with Q loader? mine has been decidedly ... mixed.

I don't. You have so input for me?

[ghost flanker]

I'm pretty much with cockerpunk regarding opinion towards the q-loader. I made a great set up where my pods loaded in front of the trigger like an assault rifle magazine. Then I played a day with it and decided it wasn't for me.

Filling each pod was quite time consuming. You'll miss being able to just dump your paint into a hopper and go. With 5 pods to fill, making it in time for the next game was a real issue. A tip; use a Revi as part of your q-pod loading apparatus - it will be invaluable. Filling q-pods was troublesome. They often jam in middle of filling with the crank, necessitating the need to unload and try again. Forcing it any further will break paint inside the pod. Cleaning broken paint out of a q-pod requires complete disassembly and is very time consuming. I also found that q-loaders are harsh on paint. Paintballs got smashed in the chamber sometimes due to the force of the spring. Preloading paint in the chamber helps, but it won't eliminate the problem completely. Removing the hopper from the top of the gun was cool, but you don't get something for nothing.

By the way, I have a q loader for sale. Been sitting in a box for 7 years. Only used once.

[G Squat]

I'm pretty much with cockerpunk regarding opinion towards the q-loader. I made a great set up where my pods loaded in front of the trigger like an assault rifle magazine. Then I played a day with it and decided it wasn't for me.

Filling each pod was quite time consuming. You'll miss being able to just dump your paint into a hopper and go. With 5 pods to fill, making it in time for the next game was a real issue. A tip; use a Revi as part of your q-pod loading apparatus - it will be invaluable. Filling q-pods was troublesome. They often jam in middle of filling with the crank, necessitating the need to unload and try again. Forcing it any further will break paint inside the pod. Cleaning broken paint out of a q-pod requires complete disassembly and is very time consuming. I also found that q-loaders are harsh on paint. Paintballs got smashed in the chamber sometimes due to the force of the spring. Preloading paint in the chamber helps, but it won't eliminate the problem completely. Removing the hopper from the top of the gun was cool, but you don't get something for nothing.

By the way, I have a q loader for sale. Been sitting in a box for 7 years. Only used once.

Hmm. You've given me much to consider. I've just always been opposed to some big dumb thing swaying back and forth on top of my gun. Loved my reloader B I had, but never warmed up to the idea of hoppers up on top like they are. I may have to conform because I require a large capacity and I require a mag

BTW, I LOVE your gun, Ghost. I'm building one with a lot of the same elements in mind. Voted for ya!

[GoatBoy]

Thanks for the response. I had considered the fact that I may need to go with a tac body to achieve what I have in mind. It looks like if I were to get that adapter and the q bracket that points forward, I should be pretty close to where I want to be with a little modding necessary. As for the air hose, I'll be using an AGD back bottle asa. No prob there. If anyone had any pics of mags with a similar setup, I'd love to see'em.

I wouldn't go with a Tac One body; I believe the picatinny is still in the wrong place, which doesn't do you any good. You would have to make a secondary adapter, and if you're going to do that, just go with a normal cylindrical body and fit a cowl over that which either has picatinny, or some other way to basically adapt the q-socket to the body. (Another way to look at it is finding a way to fill the gap between socket and body.)

Not sure if I recommend your mounting location though; I think it's a bit high up. Affects gun manipulation.

If you are locked to a classic rail, is it notched for Warp feed?

Reloading pods takes maybe 20-30 seconds per pod if you use a hopper to feed it, minus the time it takes to fill the hopper. So the cadence is fill up the Revvy or something, fill 2 q-pods, reload the Revvy, fill next 2 pods. During dead time I pre-loaded extra pods just in case as well. So I've never missed games due to "loading issues".

It's a matter of mechanical aptitude, and honestly Q-Loaders aren't for everybody.

[ghost flanker]

Thanks again, G Squat. I appreciate the vote. Yeah, it's a nice, simple, practical little set up. That green pump in MOTM sure is killing it, though.

It's a matter of mechanical aptitude, and honestly Q-Loaders aren't for everybody.

I'd like to think I'm mechanically apt I repair machinery for a living. I even prefer complicated guitar amplifiers that you have to spend days tweaking to get that perfect tone vs. amps that are easy to dial in. It really wasn't that I couldn't figure it out - it was a patience and reliability thing for me. 20-30 seconds to fill a pod is certainly feasible, but that's really best case scenario. It can also take far longer than that to fill one pod due to jamming issues or other problems. You may have to spend time messing with a malfunctioning pod or three on game day, maybe disassemble one completely. Also, that Revi helping you load the pods ain't gonna hold itself up, so a third hand or a friend is needed. Now I'm not necessarily recommending against getting a q loader, but there are drawbacks that should be considered before buying. Removing the hopper from the top of the gun can be worth it depending on the person, but it wasn't for me. The reliability and ease of use of a good old fashioned agitating hopper won out over the far cooler but much more finicky q loader.

[going_home]

If you're going to have something large hanging off the side why not do the side force fed hopper mod ?





(not my pic, top mounted loader doesnt bother me)

[GoatBoy]

I'd like to think I'm mechanically apt I repair machinery for a living. I even prefer complicated guitar amplifiers that you have to spend days tweaking to get that perfect tone vs. amps that are easy to dial in. It really wasn't that I couldn't figure it out - it was a patience and reliability thing for me. 20-30 seconds to fill a pod is certainly feasible, but that's really best case scenario. It can also take far longer than that to fill one pod due to jamming issues or other problems. You may have to spend time messing with a malfunctioning pod or three on game day, maybe disassemble one completely. Also, that Revi helping you load the pods ain't gonna hold itself up, so a third hand or a friend is needed. Now I'm not necessarily recommending against getting a q loader, but there are drawbacks that should be considered before buying. Removing the hopper from the top of the gun can be worth it depending on the person, but it wasn't for me. The reliability and ease of use of a good old fashioned agitating hopper won out over the far cooler but much more finicky q loader.

Best case scenario is faster. 20-30 seconds is me just-farting-around-and-forgetting-to-turn-the-Revvy-on speed.



As far as the Revvy being held up:

[G Squat]

If you're going to have something large hanging off the side why not do the side force fed hopper mod ?





(not my pic, top mounted loader doesnt bother me)

I wanted something minimal and sleeker coming off the side. That's why I had my mind set on qloader. Now, after some consideration, I'll probably go with the crowd and run a standard force fed hopper.

[cockerpunk]

Thanks again, G Squat. I appreciate the vote. Yeah, it's a nice, simple, practical little set up. That green pump in MOTM sure is killing it, though.



I'd like to think I'm mechanically apt I repair machinery for a living. I even prefer complicated guitar amplifiers that you have to spend days tweaking to get that perfect tone vs. amps that are easy to dial in. It really wasn't that I couldn't figure it out - it was a patience and reliability thing for me. 20-30 seconds to fill a pod is certainly feasible, but that's really best case scenario. It can also take far longer than that to fill one pod due to jamming issues or other problems. You may have to spend time messing with a malfunctioning pod or three on game day, maybe disassemble one completely. Also, that Revi helping you load the pods ain't gonna hold itself up, so a third hand or a friend is needed. Now I'm not necessarily recommending against getting a q loader, but there are drawbacks that should be considered before buying. Removing the hopper from the top of the gun can be worth it depending on the person, but it wasn't for me. The reliability and ease of use of a good old fashioned agitating hopper won out over the far cooler but much more finicky q loader.

yeah my experience was similar. except that i found it was nearly impossible to shoot clean for more than 2 or 3 pods. now, i had an early production version, less than a year after they came out. the issue i had, was that depending on the condition, age, and what paint brand, it compresses slightly differently. and so you are supposed to cut your hose to an integer number of paintballs, but with variable compression in the paintballs, this means its not always a whole paintball.

the worse feeling in the world is when you slam the Qpod home, imagining unleashing a barrage of paint on some poor schmuck, and all you feel is "crunch"

idk, as i said, i could make it work for a while, but it was a constant annoyance. always messing with it.

[Loguzzzzzz]

You can use a CPVC 3/4" pipe coupling. I have used them as well as a 45* to angle it slightly. Here is a sample. . . .



It MUST be CPVC, standard PVC will not fit into the q loader. If you cant find one let me know, I may have a couple laying around here.

[GoatBoy]

The problems with the ball stack "compressibility" are largely mitigated by keeping the hose length short. I've seen some people try to make some crazy looping setups, and that's just asking for trouble. Having a longer stack of paint due to longer hose increases the variability. A longer hose also takes more force to send paint through it, especially if it has kinks/bends in it. So people try to overcome that with the only tool they have in their toolbox: increase force (pre-winds). Vicious cycle.

I kept my hose as short as possible, so the stack variability is reduced. Since that required less force to feed, I reduced the pre-winds in all my pods. Less pre-winds = less force. Less force = less compression. Easier on the paint, more reliable, still capable of high ROF. Virtuous cycle.

The objective with hose tuning is to get it so you don't slice a ball when you remove a non-empty pod. Even if you do get it in such a half-state, you just take a shot to move the stack as you finish rotating the pod, and you'll be fine. And then once you realize this, you stop bothering with tuning the hose length in the first place.

Anyways, I can't fault anyone for ditching a Q-Loader for something more conventional. Just... do it for the right reasons.

You can use a CPVC 3/4" pipe coupling. I have used them as well as a 45* to angle it slightly. Here is a sample. . . .

Yikes... has that actually held up for you? That puts the pod close to a workable position, but ... I have this thing about using feed necks as structural components on guns.

One of the things I had on my list-of-things-I-will-never-get-around-to was remodeling the socket in Openscad and then 3d printing some new ones with proper/integrated mounting support.

[cockerpunk]

The problems with the ball stack "compressibility" are largely mitigated by keeping the hose length short. I've seen some people try to make some crazy looping setups, and that's just asking for trouble. Having a longer stack of paint due to longer hose increases the variability. A longer hose also takes more force to send paint through it, especially if it has kinks/bends in it. So people try to overcome that with the only tool they have in their toolbox: increase force (pre-winds). Vicious cycle.

I kept my hose as short as possible, so the stack variability is reduced. Since that required less force to feed, I reduced the pre-winds in all my pods. Less pre-winds = less force. Less force = less compression. Easier on the paint, more reliable, still capable of high ROF. Virtuous cycle.

The objective with hose tuning is to get it so you don't slice a ball when you remove a non-empty pod. Even if you do get it in such a half-state, you just take a shot to move the stack as you finish rotating the pod, and you'll be fine. And then once you realize this, you stop bothering with tuning the hose length in the first place.

Anyways, I can't fault anyone for ditching a Q-Loader for something more conventional. Just... do it for the right reasons.




Yikes... has that actually held up for you? That puts the pod close to a workable position, but ... I have this thing about using feed necks as structural components on guns.

One of the things I had on my list-of-things-I-will-never-get-around-to was remodeling the socket in Openscad and then 3d printing some new ones with proper/integrated mounting support.

yeah, i agree. frankly, i play semi automatic so rarely anymore, and when i do its with a variety of setups, so messing with it is the real reason why i ditched it.

take a shot as moving the pod? or after removing the pod? what, just to not have the whole system under compression on reloading? makes sense ...

[Ragu310]

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/m...%7C%24550.html

Here's a mag with Q-loader set-up for more ideas.

[Loguzzzzzz]

Yikes... has that actually held up for you? That puts the pod close to a workable position, but ... I have this thing about using feed necks as structural components on guns.

Holds up just fine still use it that way on occasion, this is not my primary shooter but my primary uses that set as well just not all the time. I do put a hose clamp on to keep it from rotating.

[eelz]

Just thought I'd add to this that direct mounting of a Q-loader socket can be done.

Here's mine;

[G Squat]

I've figured ways I can use a clamp-on aluminum feedneck to secure it in the same fashion, but I didn't like how much stress that would put on bracket. Also, I really want it going back the other way. I'm looking into some options now, but still looking for a Q setup to buy too.