One Legged T-Rex (OLTR)

[zulubravo44]

I have 4/12 and 5/12.

"Dirty (Baker's) Dozen" roster partially updated. Still missing 1, 3, 7, 9, 11 and 12. Waiting on pictures of a few other setups (particularly goin5150's, which looks pretty sweet from the last part of his vid)

Note that I moved the post over to the Armory to keep this thread on topic with updates on the OLTR, reviews/feedback, etc.

[BigEvil]

Wait, there is a BEO-Mafia m86 that some how made it out into the wild?

[going_home]

Wait, there is a BEO-Mafia m86 that some how made it out into the wild?

Someone will pay for this....

[luke]

I'm working on the web page now, I'll try and get in online today and get this project going. I plan on making 25 units.

[zulubravo44]

So here's what was just dropped off in the mail...



As a testament to the quality of Luke's stuff, and also to my title of worst airsmith ever, I aired it up the first time without remembering to put in the sear/sear pin. I don't know how many times it'll take me to learn that lesson. Anyway, after some scary rapid fire, re-assembly and testing, the OLTR worked perfectly. And man is it sweet.

Made a slow-mo video of dry firing as well, for those who are curious:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvXY...ature=youtu.be

[luke]

Thanks for that video, it clearly shows the "built in" trigger stop.

[jame4091]

http://youtu.be/zGaH6YL2hZc
So here is my review so far of the OTLR Valve. It shoot amazing, trigger pull is very light and controllable.
On the intelli frame it would be nice to have trigger stops to help fine tune the pull. As you can see in the video the valve rips. Is tested the valve on a few set ups, it by far worked best on the my retro valve setup that has the lvl 10 tuned great.
The setup is nice and simple.

[luke]

Preorder page is up>>

http://www.lukescustoms.com/t-rex.html

[zulubravo44]

http://youtu.be/zGaH6YL2hZc
So here is my review so far of the OTLR Valve. It shoot amazing, trigger pull is very light and controllable.
On the intelli frame it would be nice to have trigger stops to help fine tune the pull. As you can see in the video the valve rips. Is tested the valve on a few set ups, it by far worked best on the my retro valve setup that has the lvl 10 tuned great.
The setup is nice and simple.

Pulled the description over to the post in the armory, but we still don't know which number you got!

EDIT: Luke knew your number. All sorted now.

[Laku]

Preorder page is up>>

http://www.lukescustoms.com/t-rex.html

"This merchant allows shipping to U.S. addresses only. Please enter a U.S. shipping address."

I'll PM

[BLachance75]

I did some more testing today and I think I got it just how I want it.

I'm back to using my X-valve. While switching between valves I noticed that the on/off oring in my classic valve was a little looser on my on/off pin. So I went to my oring kit and took all of the orings and fitted them on the pin and took the one that fit loosest. I was able to turn down the LPR slightly and the trigger seems easier to walk now.

With a 800psi output tank the trigger is nice and light and snappy with no RTing. When I put on my 1000psi output SHP there is a little RT but it is easily controllable and the trigger feels the exact same. Other than trying a different trigger I have it just how I want it. I'm interested in seeing how somebody who can walk a trigger does with my setup. Hopefully in a few weeks I'll be able to let some people try it out.

[G Squat]

If anyone has more videos, preferably of them walking it (fast ) I'd love to see'em.

[BLachance75]

I think I'm getting a little faster, or at least a little more consistent. My tank ran to low at the end causing the chuffing.

[zulubravo44]

a little faster, or at least a little more consistent

That would certainly appear to be the case. Did you also get the longer trigger rod and tune your trigger stops a bit more, or just test valves and adjust the LPR?

[BLachance75]

I didn't get a longer rod but did adjust the trigger stops. I took out almost all of the over travel, both pre and post. I still left a little of over travel both ways as I seem to be able to shoot slightly faster with it rather than having no over travel at all.

I'm going to swing by the hardware store and see if they have the correct metal rod. I'm still on the fence about putting a longer rod in though. I don't want to move the trigger any more forward in the frame. I like having a safety but I don't need it. Maybe when I get a blade style trigger I'll do it.

[knownothingmags]

does the marker fire when gassed up, just that initial feed of air does it fire the marker?

[zulubravo44]

does the marker fire when gassed up, just that initial feed of air does it fire the marker?

hasn't with mine, unless i'm holding the trigger down...

[BLachance75]

Mine doesn't either.

[luke]

does the marker fire when gassed up, just that initial feed of air does it fire the marker?

The AGD valve will do whatever it does normally, sometimes they fire during air up of the marker. I don't know why they do that but the t-rex wont fire unless the trigger is pulled, the valve is closed until the trigger is pulled with or without air.

[knownothingmags]

The AGD valve will do whatever it does normally, sometimes they fire during air up of the marker. I don't know why they do that but the t-rex wont fire unless the trigger is pulled, the valve is closed until the trigger is pulled with or without air.

awesome.
thank you for explaining.

[zulubravo44]

So to clarify, turning down the LPR pressure to close to where it doesn't fire will in fact increase the RT effect?

I was getting some double and triple fires with a classic valve/rt on-off/standard output tank when the LPR screw was just turned up enough to get the thing to fire again. I now have it turned up 2-3 full turns from there since I felt like I was getting a lot of short strokes in the interim (which may have been from overextending my rear trigger stop). I don't have any more air to test it now, but even with my piss-poor tuning technique the thing absolutely rips with a classic valve. I just wish my stupid fingers worked a little faster.

Also, I have had some success putting the safety in from an intelliframe. I still have about 0.5mm of airspace between the trigger and rod, but it's almost unnoticeable. I also got better results out of my dumb fingers from switching to an Argo trigger from an Acis trigger.

But in all seriousness, who thought a little brass box could be so awesome?

[luke]

Yes lower pressure will increase RT affect along with the correct input pressure to your AGD valve. All my testing was done at 925-1100 psi (plus).

On the rear stop, remember that there is an internal stop in the T-Rex and that the valve stem length is only .04" long, meaning that the trigger pull to fully open the valve is only .04". What I'm getting at is, if you run your lower stop in too far you will be restricting the valve from opening, that could possibly cause some trouble. I really haven't tried dial in a trigger to the bare minimum movement so if you getting some malfunctioning the first thing I would check is the trigger stops. Matter-a-fact the only time I ran into anything goofy with all the testing I did was when the trigger stops moved from excessive firing and ended up too tight for the T-Rex to operate. You need to use some thread lock or teflon tape to keep the set screws from moving.

[Nickless Cage]

Hi Luke,
could this work with an emag frame?

[luke]

At a glance it looks like it would fit, but it could never be used as a emag again after the machining was completed. Also, I have my doubts about how clean looking it would be all said and done...

[C_losjoker]

At a glance it looks like it would fit, but it could never be used as a emag again after the machining was completed. Also, I have my doubts about how clean looking it would be all said and done...

Luke,

Do you want an emag frame to mill and test out, I have an extra one.

[luke]

Luke,

Do you want an emag frame to mill and test out, I have an extra one.

No thanks I really dont need to test it, I'm pretty certain it can be done.

Thanks for the offer though.

[luke]

Wow am I losing big time...

Looks like I have valve #3

I had not taken it apart until today... Man was it a pain to put back together. But now I know a trick...That little hose did not want to stay put.

You disassembled the t-rex valve or the marker? What kind of trouble were you having with the hose?

[goin5150]

Nope didn't dissassemble the valve... Just poor choice of words on my half.

I had not separated the body from the rail since before I sent the marker to you. When I opened up the marker to get the number on the valve I had to work to keep the hose in the air channel and notch of the rail when I re assembled the marker.

Marker works great I just tuned the Lpr a little to get it to RT as a little addition when walking the trigger. The only issue Imhave is I am still getting a little bolt stick that I am going to give up on soon and send it to Tuna to fix.

Other than that... I need to save up for another project that involves the OLTR and LPR Foregrip

[luke]

Ahh, yea the lp line can be tricky...

[BLachance75]

I took my gun to the field this past Sunday and let somebody who can walk the trigger try it out. I was blown away at how fast it was shooting. He had it shooting as fast as any electro out there. Unfortunately I didn't get to use the gun much because I was constantly double feeding and didn't want to deal with it when I had another working gun with me. I'll get the double feeding sorted out and this should be my new go to non pump gun.

I do have one thing to note, which would seem like common sense but I didn't think about it. Tune the gun with the tank you plan on using. My SHP tank was empty so I tuned the LPR with my regulare 800PSI output tank before going to the field. I had it shooting great at home, with no RT effect, with my regular tank. When I filled my SHP tank and started shooting it had enough RT to make it shoot to fast, over 20bps on a big red chrony. A quick adjustment of the LPR and it was shooting like I had it at home.

I was also able to get my safety to work without to much pre travel. I had to turn the front set screw about 1/8 of a turn which added only a tiny amount of extra pre travel.