Building my first Automag. Currently have an RT with an old school tank system. What would be the better option of the Ninja regs?
Building my first Automag. Currently have an RT with an old school tank system. What would be the better option of the Ninja regs?
depends what tank system you have really. some people prefer tanks that are setup for a certain marker. others swap stuff around.
there are alot more reg options than just ninja, alot of people forget that. most people end up going with a shp.
just to show most of the options for adjustable regs.
3k flatline
4.5k flatline
3k raptor
4.5k raptor
apocalypse
apocalypse 2k
Armageddon
conquest
nitroduck x stream
nitroduck i-reg
maxflow
inline maxflow
megareg
DO NOT GET A SLP Reg. Wont work on a mag.
you need 700+ psi output pressure on your tank reg to get a mag to work.
"because every vengeful cop with a lesbian daughter, is having a bad day, and looking for someone to blame"
CP, isn't the issue with a lot of those regs you listed that spare are drying up? Also the simplicity, still being supported and being lightweight would be the biggest swaying factor for me at least to stick with Ninja.
I made the mistake of trading for a mag...now I'm trapped
Cocker, Automag, and Misc Parts FS
i guess just the hard reg seats for the air america regs may be scare, but other than that it's just 90-duro urethane o-rings you need and those are easy to get. i wonder if the agd reg seats would work in them? they fit...maybe just change the reg pin from the aa style to the agd style? as long as the lengths are the same it should work just fine. i'll have to check into that when i crack my next aa reg apart.
Just get one tank and two regs, one Ninja Superlight SLP for the newer electronic markers, and an SHP for the mags.
I have a PMI pure energy tank & reg that im having hydro'ed... I found old info online of adding in an extra washer & uping the PSI out put on that kind of reg... They go like this )()()()()( + ) makes it a total of 11 washers... I have extra washers... Im ganna try it...
Last edited by 2BAD4U; 03-31-2015 at 02:12 AM.
The easy answer:
If you have multiple guns, but want one tank, go with whatever reg runs at 800psi.
I do not care for the SHP tanks, as with some work to the on/off pin(at least with an Xvalve type), you can get RT effect with regular 800psi output. Having a tank that would literally blow any other reg up is a costly mistake. I do not need 1100psi tanks to have fun.
nobody im right there with you.
i have several mags that rt at 850 and is very controllable.
Thanks for the info guys, I have an RT with an old tank on it and I am building my first Automag X-valve. So far it's just a pile of parts. I was only thinking of going with ninja because of the availability and quality. Was thinking of an SHP 68/4500.
I just picked up a superlite (SL) 68/4500 a few weeks ago, and I love the damn thing. It's almost the same size as a 48/3000 aluminum tank, and it weighs nothing. It also shoots very crisply on my classic valve with an RT on/off, but I can't speak to whether it would RT an xvalve.
the superlite tanks are beyond amazing, i forgot who let me use one of theirs at ll7 but it was incredible
are the superlight bottles available separately?
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You can have my Flatline when you pry it from my cold dead hands... (or I ever run out of reg seats)
^slide check and there are multiple quick disconnect drops.
And the problem with the discount for the ASA is that they have a horrible fit and are loose. I don't like my tank to be anything less than solid, or even feel the shift of the setup as i move it about. Those QD bottomline adapters sucked since day 1: great idea, poor implementation.
If the tank is dedicated to the gun. Buy the SHP. If the tank will be used on different guns, go 850psi. If you want none of it to work at all, get the SLP.
I just hand tighten the regs on the tanks.
I just know to remove the tank from the gun by grabbing the reg and turning it not the tank.
Probably a lot of people do this, especially those that fly with equipment.
The regs must be removed from the tanks for that anyway.
Tanks do not need nor require to be torqued down. They need to be put on by hand and removed by hand. That is all.
whats the torque spec?
I hear red loctite is a really good idea too.