ule level 10 build problems

[DIRTYHORSE]

I decided to build my son a ule automag. I got the x bolt, ule body, ule rail, trigger up grade on/off, and I think its a rpg triggrt frame. I put it all together. But I am having problems setting up my xbolt and on/off. I adjust it and get a leak. Its crazy. The bolt at first wouldnt cycle and it would stick. Well I made some more adjustments, got it to where now it fires but not very fast like everyone elses I see. I can shoot it fast but it doesnt shoot fast automaticly. If that makes scence. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Like pictures, shims and how many , any of you guys that have one running awsome, and understand this gun. I cant seam to set this thing up. Thank you for your time and help. I appriciate it.

[Laku]

I decided to build my son a ule automag. I got the x bolt, ule body, ule rail, trigger up grade on/off, and I think its a rpg triggrt frame. I put it all together. But I am having problems setting up my xbolt and on/off. I adjust it and get a leak. Its crazy. The bolt at first wouldnt cycle and it would stick. Well I made some more adjustments, got it to where now it fires but not very fast like everyone elses I see. I can shoot it fast but it doesnt shoot fast automaticly. If that makes scence. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Like pictures, shims and how many , any of you guys that have one running awsome, and understand this gun. I cant seam to set this thing up. Thank you for your time and help. I appriciate it.

Ok, so you have lvl 10 bolt. Here's how you tune that. But if you have ULT on/off (I'm not sure from your post) replace that with standard on/off before you start tuning just to reduce the variables.Notice that you do not want any shimms in the lvl-10

Overall if you could post pictures of everything you have it would be easier for us to help you.

The new kits come with the sizes you have. The old kits used to come with sizes from 0 to 3.5. Most of the time carriers above 1.5 were never needed, so the larger ones were dropped from the kit.

The gold spring will work for all velocities.

If you hold the trigger down and it leaks a bit before sealing, it usually means the bolt stem vent hole is close to the sealing edge of the oring causing it to weep air until the oring sets and tightens up. Remove the shim and you should be fine. Shims shouldn't be used anyway. Shims only change how far the bolt needs to move before it can vent air and reset. Most of the time, even in extreme cases of a breach blockage, the bolt will always move far enough to expose the bolt stem vent hole.

Level 10 tuning guide:

When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.

For carrier sizing:

Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.

Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.

For spring adjustment:

You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definitely clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.

[athomas]

The x-valve was not designed to be reactive to the point that it rapid fires. It was only designed to be reactive enough to help return the trigger faster. In order to get the valve to be reactive so that you can find a sweet spot to obtain higher than normal rates of fire, you have to get it tuned to specific parameters.

First, you need a properly tuned level 10 bolt. If it isn't properly tuned, it will slow down the reset and completely eliminate any reactivity. If you use a ULT, you need more shims to simulate a shorter on-off pin length. You install shims one at a time until the valve goes full auto or the bolt sticks. Then you remove the shim that caused that effect. That is all you can do. If it still doesn't rapid fire, then you need a higher flow and/or higher pressure output from the regulator on your tank.

[DIRTYHORSE]

I will get some pics for you. Yes I have the level 10 bolt. I put it on and had no leaks then put on the up graded ult on/off and got air leaks. So I put the origional on/off back on and got leaks. So I changed an oring on the on/off and it stopped. Weard that it being new but ok..... I will take some pics and start trying to adjust the bolt first. Question... when I look at youtube and see other ult automags they shoot so fast.(almost like automatic) shouldnt I beable to do that with the level 10 x bolt. It should be like the rt right? Thank you for your help I will talk to you soon.

[Cyco-Dude]

I will get some pics for you. Yes I have the level 10 bolt. I put it on and had no leaks then put on the up graded ult on/off and got air leaks. So I put the origional on/off back on and got leaks. So I changed an oring on the on/off and it stopped. Weard that it being new but ok..... I will take some pics and start trying to adjust the bolt first. Question... when I look at youtube and see other ult automags they shoot so fast.(almost like automatic) shouldnt I beable to do that with the level 10 x bolt. It should be like the rt right? Thank you for your help I will talk to you soon.

as mentioned before, it depends on the length of the on/off pin, but more importantly it depends on the output pressure of your tank. increase the pressure, increase the reactivity. also, new o-rings will be a bit stiff until they break in. once broken in, it should be easier to bounce. if that is what you want, remove the ult and put the rt on/off back in.

[athomas]

So I changed an oring on the on/off and it stopped. Weard that it being new but ok.....

If you had taken the original one off and then put it back in place, it probably would have stopped leaking as well. Sometimes the oring just needs to be moved around. Perhaps a piece of dirt go on it when it was put in place.

I will take some pics and start trying to adjust the bolt first. Question... when I look at youtube and see other ult automags they shoot so fast.(almost like automatic) shouldnt I beable to do that with the level 10 x bolt. It should be like the rt right?

The mags that shoot almost full auto are tuned to do that. They usually don't do that right out of the box. The level 10 bolt actually makes it harder to do that because it requires a higher chamber pressure than a level 7 bolt. As previously mentioned, you just need to get a higher output tank, and a shorter on-off pin or a top oring that is pushed farther into the on-off area. The ULT is adjustable, so it is easy to do. The stock retro on-off is a bit harder because it requires a shorter pin.