hyperframe with morlock problem

[hardr0ck68]

hello,

I have a mag with an RT valve using a ULT and LX and a hyperframe with pred morlock board. This was my tourny gun long ago. I always had issues with the hyperjunk, from day one. One problem I can't solve is bolt stick. When I rapid fire, 10 bps+ the bolt will stick forward and I need to use a squeegee to reset it or sometimes smack the valve hard in the back....

My thoughts are
sear gap: I will check that tomorrow... the sear may not have enough clearance from the noid. I would think the same credit card thickness gap should be there as in needed in the trigger rod to trigger

Programming: maybe I have the board set up wrong, it would be nice if I could find some devil mag owners who could share their settings with me

Capacitor: Have Blue installed the board for me, he put in a capacitor like the stock board had... maybe it is the wrong side for the job or recharges to slowly.... again info from devil mag owners or even hyper frame owners would be nice

On/off length: I ran the largest pin centerflag had back in the day before I switched to ULT to try to fix the problem. I could check my shim stack and try a longer pin... would like to try the longest setting possible to see if that makes any difference

So yeah, any other ideas? Anyone know a devil mag owner who might help? I want to get this running I am going to play at the end of next month and want this gun to work to it's potential

[Laku]

Too tight lvl 10 carrier would be my first suspicion. Or too tightly or loosely screwed field strip screw that allows miss alignment between body and valve.

[Nobody]

Make sure your field strip screw is on tight. Use allen wrench to tighten it.

[BigEvil]

Im really good with Hyperframes and Devil mags. If you can't get it figured out send it to me I'll get it straightened out.

[hardr0ck68]

I know it is not a LX or ULT problem because it did this before either of them were available haha. I have fought this problem ever since I put the hyper junk on the mag (I bought mine the first year they were released), I "fixed" the bolt chewing problem after killing 10 level 7 bolts ... a longer on off pin fixed that. Then installed LX with no change to performance (no new problems, but the bolt stick continued). Then when I couldn't get any longer pins from centerflag (I wanted to try a longer one to see if that would help) I put my ULT kit in (I got that kit at IAO in the tech class, one of the first ones to hit the field and it was wasted in an electro that SHOULD have been working haha)

I don't even have air right now... no tanks in hydro. I worked in schools with behavioral students and am taking two of them out to play for their first time. I am sending some bottles out for hydro and would like to get this working.

[Laku]

Bolt sticking forward should pretty much always be because something is preventing it from moving freely. Sear could only do that if it doesn't clear the body all the way.

If it isn't lvl10 carrier then I would check that the valve can't move out of alignment and cause power tube to pin the bolt against the body. Weak spring might cause that but I doubt it. Other thing to check is that the body steel washer hasn't mushroomed, if it has you can file it down.
And body pim isn't bottoming out in your rail causing miss alignment? What kind of body do you have?

I don't think your problems are caused by the frame.

[athomas]

Make sure the dwell setting is at least 15ms. You can use a higher setting for testing to make sure the sear is held out of the way until the bolt fully returns. A higher value will use more battery power and limit the recharge time between shots for your valve, so only use as high a value as you need.

If you can find another capacitor with the same value, put it in parallel with the one you have. That will test your capacitor theory. It will double the capacity.

When using a ULT in a hyperframe, start with no shims installed. That would be the longest pin length. If it doesn't work, add one shim at a time until it does. If it never works properly with any shim number, then you have other issues.

[hardr0ck68]

Body: minimag
Rail: bone stock mag rail

Morlock Settings (all relevant ones)
Fire mode: Sniper
Max ROF: 15 (last time i played I set to 10 and still had problems)
debounce: 12
eyes: off (there are none)
solenoid: single
Dwell: was 10 just set it to 15\

Capacitor is 10000 uf 10v whatever that means

ULT shims: one lx shim one ult shim (yes I know bad bad don't use lx shims... in the tech class where I was given the ULT I was told by the man that it was alright to use them they are just thicker but otherwise the same)

There might be a slight lip on the internal washer, the edge is sure sharp, but there is no large lip that I can feel with my finger tip.

The LX feels good, a slight bit of stickshion (sp?) for the first 1/3 of the forward stroke but then smooth, and I remember it sealing well with a dab of oil...

everything seems aligned, there is some resistance from the noid when resetting it, and it can be quite a bit, I would guess 4 to 5 points... I placed an allen wrench where the on off would go and "fired the marker" the noid kicks forward well with a good bit of pressure but then it takes quite a bit to set it back in place (really just to get it started moving backwards, that force dropped to ounces once the noid moved the first 1/64th of an inch).

[athomas]

The dwell = 10 might have caused your problem. It would cause the sear to rub the bottom of the bolt on its return and could, in some instances, cause bolt stick.

I assume the sniper mode = semi.

[hardr0ck68]

sniper is single solenoid semi auto, as per the manual

http://www.zdspb.com/tech/km2board/p...ockmanual.html

[hardr0ck68]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REX-Paintbal...-/381281007646

will this work as a replacement solenoid?

[BigEvil]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REX-Paintbal...-/381281007646

will this work as a replacement solenoid?

No, you need an Eblade or Eblade 2 solenoid. p8ntbal4me has a ton but I doubt you need one.

[hardr0ck68]

So this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSA-9962-033...item3aa4d3404d

I am not paying $50 for a pancake noid, if it comes to that I will pay the 150 for another hyperjunk...

[BigEvil]

Some other noids are similar but the throw length and plunger length are different.

[hardr0ck68]

BE I have the feeling you think the on off is key... which one would you recommend

Hyperframe: have it somewhere but went to ULT back before I put the retro valve in... I have the longest pin centerflags made, nearly killed one of their techs to finally get it but never used it in this valve

ULT: I have tried various shim combinations never had luck.. could drop them all out and try again

E-Mag/rt on off: with .750 pin, never tried one but I remember denis telling me back in the day they helped sometimes, reading threads about problems with hyperjunks they seem to help most people

[athomas]

Here is an actual Predator Morlock manual from the original site. Both of mine were purchased in 2004. Yours may be an earlier version, though.

Predator Morlock Manual:

[hardr0ck68]

no, that must be a later code than mine, mine matches the options of the manual that I posted earlier, most noticeably is option 2 enables burst mode and trigger pulls dictate how long the strings will be.

[BigEvil]

no, that must be a later code than mine, mine matches the options of the manual that I posted earlier, most noticeably is option 2 enables burst mode and trigger pulls dictate how long the strings will be.

You have a pre-predator code morlock. Wonderful, they are fun to work with

[hardr0ck68]

I picked the board up in 04 or 03... I remember what dorm I was living in when it arrived. I bought the hyperjunk in 2001.... that is 15 years of this think only working half assed.

[hardr0ck68]

Sending it to BigEvil to get worked on... wish him luck!