Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Custom build advice

  1. #1

    Custom build advice

    So about a year and a half ago I picked up My first mag (RT Pro) in a trade. I'd always been in the autococker camp, and needless to say I no longer own an autococker. I just purchased a body from XMT and am planning to build a custom mag from the ground up that I intend to keep forever. Given my limited experience with automags I wanted to get some info/advice on wether to build an RT mag, which I feel I have a pretty decent handle on, or a pneumag. I am a competent tech and am not turned off by the extra work, but I'm looking to keep the reliability I had before. It was nice to pull my mechanical marker out and know it was gonna go bang. It would seem that Luke's customs t-Rex and lpr-fg take the guess work out of a pneumag build. So if you have experience with pneumags I'd like to hear from you. Help convince me one way or another. What makes them so special that I should want to spend the extra dough. As an aside I play mostly rec ball and scenario play.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    460
    I can't profess to being a pnuemag expert, but I've owned both the "old fashioned" and the Luke's t-rex kinds now. Unfortunately I got rid of the other one, built in an intelliframe, over a year ago so I can't really do a side-by-side comparison.

    The real difference is the trigger pull. While you can, with enough tinkering and the right reg, get the RT effect pretty well tuned on a mech mag, it still won't have the crisp, short trigger that a pneumag will offer. Throw in the magnets that come standard in Luke's mini vert frame, and you have the closest thing I've seen to a match-grade trigger on a paintball gun. The consequence is being able to have the greatest trigger control possible, whether you're one balling and trying to stay concealed (important for woods/scenario sometimes, depending on play style), or you're really trying to lay it down. The other attraction is that a pneumag's speed is entirely based on the player's ability to pull the trigger repeatedly. It's borne out of my own obstinance, but this feature very much appeals to me as no one can accuse me of having an assisted trigger. Not that it matters much anymore when 12 year olds are running around with axes and minis, but whatever. It's important to me.

    Luke's set up (mini vert, t-rex, LPR-FG) is incredibly easy to tune, as you only have to adjust the LPR pressure with a single set screw. Once you get it tuned to your liking, it's very unlikely that you'll have to fuss with it any more than you would a mech. I can't say the same for the other MPA/MSV set up I had... it may have been my own incompetence, but I had to take off the grip frame and mess with that thing about every other time I played with it. Also, Luke's set up works with an AGD safety, something which wasn't always functional on my older set up. However, you can save a lot of money just going mech. Before the t-rex edition, I was shooting a classic valve with an RT on/off and one of luke's custom triggers that had the stops well tuned. That was a lot of fun for a mech.

    That said, there are others who probably have a greater insight into the difference between a properly tuned RT Pro and a pneumag setup.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    3,570
    I've had a few of each.

    If you want reliability then go with the mech mag, feed it with a stainless hose and high-pressure/high-flow tank reg, and a fast loader.
    If you want a mech that handles like a electro, get lukes OLTR setup in a frame you like.
    If you want the best of both, get an Emag with nice tank and have Bigevil tune it.

    I'll probably never build another pneumag (with MSV/MPA) again. When I get around to wanting another, I'll get a OLTR.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •