View Poll Results: What should be replaced?

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Thread: 68 Automag Classic Leak

  1. #1

    Question 68 Automag Classic Leak

    Some time ago, I purchased an Automag from eBay. It had an occasional leaking problem. I cannot recall if it came like that or if it developed shortly after, but it was manageable. Since the tank that came with it had a broken gauge, and the tank was out of date, I used cO2 with it. I can't say that this caused the problem, but it may have accelerated it. It usually stops leaking when the trigger is pulled, but as the problem gets worse, sometimes it leaks even when the trigger is back.

    Now I haven't used it in a good while, but I want to use it later this month and need to know what to replace. I thought it would either require a power tube O-ring (part #123) or a different spacer. Currently it has a .220 spacer. If I don't need another spacer, I would like to not buy the kit. Then again, if I replace the O-ring and it turns out I may need a spacer, I'll have to pay shipping again.

    I also partially disassembled it today to refamiliarise myself with the parts and the issue. I discovered that the bolt kind of sticks when pressed against the base of the power tube. It takes a firm, but not a hard press to do so. It can be dislodged again with similar pressure. Given that I can easily do this with my fingers, I assume this does not constitute bolt stick. Is the bolt meant to effortlessly slide back and forth or should it have a slight bit of hold when reaching the fully rearward position?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    153
    REBUILD KIT (includes a new bolt spring) + SPACER KIT = problem solved.

    You bought an old used marker and you need to do the most important upgrade in paintball: general maintenance. Completely rebuild it with new parts/seals/spring/correct spacer and get back to playing. Who knows how old the o-rings are in it, and how worn out the bolt spring is. If you get lost on how to do it, turn the valve upside down and there is a diagram (on the valve) on how to rebuild it.

    (1) 68 AIR Valve REBUILD KIT: http://www.ansgear.com/AGD_Automag_M...rebuildkit.htm
    (2) Spacer Kit: http://www.ansgear.com/AGD_Automag_P...espacerkit.htm

    Finally, make sure that when the marker is pressurized, there is a gap b/w the back of the trigger and the trigger rod that is roughly the width of a credit card.

  3. #3
    I have no tanks filled, and can no longer get HPA filled around here. However, I did check the space behind the trigger before and it was good. As for the bolt spring, it is nowhere near worn out. The kit is twenty dollars versus four dollars for the power tube O-ring pack. I know the kit is a good deal, considering the rest may eventually need replacing either way. I have considered it. I would like to get away with the far cheaper option if able, though.

    I have taken it completely apart before in order to get a bearing on all the components, and the valve assembly looks immaculate. Of course looks can be deceiving, as it leaks. I have properly oiled it as well. I did all this before using it for the first time, but after a brief testing. I didn't want to mess with it before knowing it worked as the seller claimed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    153
    .......or don't do any of the above, and continue to suffer leaks. O-rings don't last forever, even o-rings from AGD (regardless of how good they look). The investment in replacement/rebuild parts ($20 with shipping cost) is insanely cheap, and odds are will last you another 5yrs+

  5. #5
    I'm not rejecting your advice. I'm giving you additional information, and hoping that the cheaper option will suffice.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    782
    If it leaks with and without the trigger held back, you've got a couple different seals bad. I understand wanting to find the least expensive option, but consider this. If you choose to only replace the bad seals and have no spares, the other aging seals may fail on you after you've paid an entry fee at your local field. You've just lost that money and have to buy more orings, pay for shipping, didn't get to play, etc. if you're playing at a private field without an entry fee, the frustration of missing a day of play should be enough to warrant the extra cash for the kits. This, of course, assumes you have only one marker.
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    waiting for winter
    Posts
    1,769
    most of my level 7's use a .220 spacer in the power tube. most likely its the o ring. i have a crap load of extra spacers if you need a different one, get the rebuild kit first.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Inception Designs HQ
    Posts
    3,054
    Put 3-4 drops of oil in it, to make sure that it is lubed. Oil will generally fix most leaks. Get a oring kit from AGD first, or get a L10 kit and it solves 2 problems. 1) it has new powertip orings & 2) no more chops.

    Co2 is okay, as long as you keep the liquid out of the gun. It can exacerbate a bad oring because of the temp changes, but classic valves dealt with co2 since they came out.

    If anything, start at the tip and work back. If you did get it on ebay, the gun could use new orings regardless.

  9. #9
    I will get the kit. I also need to get the Tippmann O-ring kit, because one blew in my 98 Custom last time I screwed a tank in. That gun is hell to put back together because the sear likes to pop out without even touching it. I'm not looking forward to getting into its valve.

    Anyway, I have one other question to tack on. I am seriously considering getting a new tank. Mainly for the Automag. I'm looking at Ninja tanks for several reasons. I have read that higher pressures are welcome in an Automag. So I am wondering whether I should get a tank with Ninja's S.H.P. regulator on it or not. It gives 1,100 P.S.I. output. If it wouldn't make a marked difference in the function of the marker, I'll get the regular adjustable regulator. Also, if I did get the high pressure version, does anyone know if it would be safe for my Tippmanns?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    940
    You don't really need SHP if you use classic valve, it's more relevant if you use any of the RT type valves and want to have more reactivity.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Inception Designs HQ
    Posts
    3,054
    Stick with a 800psi output tank so you can use it both on the mag and the tippmann.

  12. #12
    All right, well that's settled. Thanks for your thoughts, everyone. As for the level ten bolt someone mentioned, I would love to. Some other time. I'd also like a Tac-One, and so on and so forth. I'm trying hard to stick to the necessities right now. The tank is my big splurge. I will update the thread as solved as soon as I see that the O-rings fix it.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    782
    Level 10s are great, but I haven't chopped a ball in a Mag since I got a Halo back in the early 2000s whether using Level 7 or 10. The Level 10 is gentler on paint due to the slower first stage acceleration, so I'm sure it has saved me from some barrel breaks, which I still do get once in a great while.

    Yup, so much cool stuff out there, such limited time and funds to explore it all...

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