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X-Mag shoots great in e-mode, but it RTs like crazy in mech mode. I don't care for the uncontrollable rate of fire. I assume it's from the shorter pin and quad oring, as I'm only running 800-850psi (preset) to the valve.
Will I hurt the electronics/solenoid if I put a standard oring up top, use a .750" pin, or change both?
Last of the Salzburg Clan
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mech mode or hybrid? i'm not sure but i don't believe you can use a .75 pin. mine rt's at a decent rate in mech, waiting to get it back from BigE to try out the electronic mode. i have an e mag that is fine in mech but stupid in hybrid.
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Mech. Power off.
have you measured the on/off pin? you could try decreasing the input pressure. you could try rebuilding the on/off. the new o-rings might be tighter / have more friction and thus slow things down a bit.
or just not run it in mech mode? you have all that extra weight; you may as well use it lol.
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Pin measures .712".
Although a good suggestion, relying on friction doesn't excite me. Kinda like in the old days with my Level 10 being unreliable trying to use smaller carriers to lighten the impact = bolt stick. This, of course, was before athomas' Level 10 tuning guide.
I hear ya on e-mode only. It's just the principle that I want it work to my liking in all modes.
captian pinky has been helping me via PM. I may have some other things going on. I'll try some stuff tonight, and post back with the full story and results.
Last edited by nak81783; 08-09-2015 at 01:31 PM.
Of course it works-its AGD
I noticed that mine got quite reactive in mechanical mode when the sear started to show signs of wear. Check your sear for wear. If the tip that holds the bolt is rounded, it might be time for a new one.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
along those lines, check the bolt lip as well.Originally Posted by athomas
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Sear has .002-.003" max radius. Bolt lip is around .010" radius. They look identical to my other X-Valve.
I think I have to chalk this one up to RT-effect inexperience.
I've been shooting an X-Valve in a Classic rail/sear for over ten years with no RT-effect. Enter the X-Mag about two years ago, and the shorter pin and quad o-ring are giving me some RT-effect, which I perceived to be "crazy". I haven't really shot it much in mech mode, so I totally forgot what crazy is. I now remember running about 1200psi straight from a SCUBA when I first got it to see what everyone was talking about concerning RT-effect. I played around with that again tonight. My definition of "crazy" has new meaning. What I have here with 800-850psi preset tank input is probably mild RT-effect.
Furthermore, when I swap valves between the markers, the RT-effect follows the X-Mag valve. The .712" pin/quad oring RTs in the Classic rail/sear, and the .750"/standard oring does not RT in the X-Mag body.
I'm going to leave it alone...
Of course it works-its AGD
Sounds like you are good to go.
Nobody's Perfect
If you want, get a new pin, something longer than the .712 that you have now. I have .720 in both my emag(with Emag valve) and X valved EP mag. I would start with a .750 pin then take it down slowly(by .010 at a time) with a sanding disk on a dremel. So you might be happy with a .730 pin. Or, you can chuck this bit of advice in the back of your mind and just be happy with what you got now
Specialized AGD Tech
Shorten the trigger rod by a few thou...
Registered User
Yeah. I'm going to chicken out, and leave it as is. Took me ten plus years to get an X-Mag. Unless there's strong evidence that there's a better way than by the book, that's how I plan to leave it.
But I may play with that idea on my other Automag, just to tinker...
Registered User
I've got it set .015" shorter than the factory 2.125".
I can go into detail as to why it's that short if you're interested, but it's too wordy for posting with my iPhone...
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