I've played pump too long..

[voo-doo]

Hello all,
I've been playing on and off since '89. I remember seeing my first mag, a minimag, and it was beautiful. To make a long story short I got bored playing and went back to playing pump to make it more Interesting. As I've gotten older it is harder to keep up with the younger players running through the woods. Not to mention the newer guns have come a long way with the rate of fire. So now I'm slow and out gunned. I have gotten so use to not having a hopper that trying to play with one is like having a big blind spot in front of me. Solution.... I went and got my box of old mag stuff out of the closet. Put togather a minimal, black body,LX valve,intelli frame and my old trusty warp feed. Took it to the second day of the game and....
Had the most fun I've had playing in a longgggg time.
So now my question..what bolt on options are available to help with my RoF? I could do some small mods, but no longer have access to a machine shop. Thanks in advance for any help.

[Cyco-Dude]

what is the outcome you are looking for? you can adjust the rof depending on the tank's input pressure. standard high-pressure regulators put out about 800 psi; you'll want a little more than that to get the trigger to bounce if that's what you're looking for.

[vintage]

do you have an RT on/off in your valve? higher output pressure from the tank and a shorter on/off pin will increase the RT effect if that is what your after. 12volt mod on the warp.

[going_home]

ULT trigger kit, super high pressure (SHP) Ninja tank reg.

Its possible playing with the shim stack in the ULT to make it walk-able.

[voo-doo]

Yes, I have a ULT trigger kit in it. Sorry I forgot to say that. Also a Doc Nickel barrel adaptor.
Don't get me wrong, it shoots great and runs like a champ. It really surprised me after spending several years in pieces in a box that all I had to do was dust the parts and a little oil. Played all day no chops, no chuffing. Chrono was consistent all day. At the end of the day I wondered why I ever put it up?
I've gone over some of the older how to/upgrade threads here, MCB and PBN. What are the differences between a Hyperframe and a pheumag or any other conversion. I would prefer to keep a .45 grip frame and also have a switch for the warp feed.

[athomas]

Hyperframes are electronic trigger frames, and pnuemags are manual trigger air assisted frames. Mags really haven't changed much. Most of the upgrades are designed to lighten the mag. Performance wise, the level 10 bolt and ULT are the only real upgrades. You can install a shorter on-off pin (or add more shims in your ULT) and/or a tank with a higher output pressure to increase the trigger response, to increase the burst rate of your shots. There are a number of aftermarket triggers available, as well as trigger frames, bodies, and rails. There are some really nice cosmetic upgrades available now.

[voo-doo]

Does anyone sell complete pheumag frames that are bolt on or would my best bet to try and find a hyperframe? Will either work with the ULT or do I need a different on/off?

[luke]

Mini Vert Double and Single trigger frames> http://www.lukescustoms.com/mini-vert-frame.html
T-Rex > http://www.lukescustoms.com/t-rex.html

[cockerpunk]

honestly, if you want more firepower than a good mech mag, its cheaper and easier to just pick up a used electro.

i do love playing mech semi though, its almost the perfect compromise between the ease of an electro and the hassle of pump (esp in the woods).

[going_home]

Axes are very inexpensive used and need no upgrades but a good barrel.

[Nobody]

If you have what is now called a classic valve(the basic standard A.I.R. valve in the original mags and minimags), then other than the RT on/off is limited in the rof by how fast you can pull the trigger. If you have a ReTro, Emag, Xvalve, then you can adjust the on/off pin length to get more RT effect. This is far easier & cheaper than getting a new tank valve, ULT trigger or a pneumag setup. I found that around .720, a mag will have easy single pulls but also easy to sweet spot for those bursts.

Since you are coming back into play. Look at how you are playing versus needing paint behind you. It still takes 1 ball to get someone out. Either look to play against walkons with rentals to maybe knock that rust off, then go to the regular players.

[voo-doo]

I have a Mini, used it maybe 3-4 times, it is nice, light and shoots good. I just can't stand having a hopper in front of my face. That is why I broke out my old minimag, so I could use my warp feed. While I do not believe in accuracy by volume, the ability to put a good burst at someone could be useful.
I do have an Xvalve on it with a ULT.
Most of the time I play scenario and woodsball.

[zulubravo44]

Nowadays with the right hopper and a little bracket, you can make just about any marker "warpless." The feed might not be as clean as a warp-bodied ULE/tac-one mag, but it'll still get the job done and keep the hopper out of your face.

Also, if you dare, you can look into Q-loaders as an alternative to battery powered warp systems. They're a bit quieter and don't run the risk of running low on juice.

Anyway, it sounds like all you need on the minimag is to play with the ULT and maybe get an SHP tank and you'll be able to keep up.

As for pneumag drop in kits, I can personally attest that Luke's One-legged T-Rex (OLTR) is just about the sweetest innovation to hit 'mags since the lvl10 bolt came out. It's so easy to use compared to the old ways of rigging up an MPA and MSV inside an intelliframe with a dremel and a drill press, and the ROF is lightning fast in practiced hands. I especially like the OLTR because it appears, at least so far, to have the ROF/sensitivity of an electro without the need for batteries or any tinkering at all. You don't even have to tune the trigger stops and worry about them moving with Luke's special trigger for them.