Emag in mech problem

[Fentyn]

Hey guys, my battery is dead and I've ordered a new one. Still wanting to try to using it in mechanical. Problem is, it doesn't work there either. My on/off originally had a whole bunch of shims in it and the sear wouldn't come forward. I tweaked a few things and then it would fire randomly, occasionally when I hadn't even pulled the trigger. I took all the shims out, and now I have RT, but it won't fire at all. Played with the regulator, turned it all the way in, never get a leak, but still never fires. Added one shim to see if that did anything. Still nada. Marker has been sitting in a box for years, but worked fine prior to being stored....

Any thoughts?

[OneSelfLost]

An emag shouldn't have any shims in the on/off. I'd double check your on/off to make sure it isn't a ULT, which is incompatible. Also check the on/off pin length, should be 0.712". Also check the trigger rod length and make sure thats correct. 2.125" I think. Another thing would be to make sure you have a quad oring, rather than a regular one.

[Fentyn]

Ah, did a bit more looking. I do have a ULT on/off. It has an x valve if that makes any difference. Not positive about the quad o ring thing.... Will try and measure the pin and sear length. Not sure how to measure either to that degree, not positive how to even get the sear out haha

[athomas]

The ULT doesn't have the return force to properly move the heavier sear assembly of the emag.

Your X-valve isn't setup for use in an emag. You need an emag on-off assembly. Basically, it is a retro on-off assembly with a shorter 0.712" on-off pin and a quad oring for the on-off top oring.

[Fentyn]

Well, it did work... I used it set up this way for a few years. I didn't use mech mode much though.... Can I just switch the on/off? Or do I need a whole new valve?

[nak81783]

You just need a new on/off assembly with .712" pin and quad oring. Contact Tuna. He'll get you what you need.

Concerning it working before, it definitely wasn't optimized. Get the new on/off assembly, X-Mod 1.8 (if you don't already have it), and see what an E-Mag can really do!

[Fentyn]

Ya, I saw that tuna had some stuff. Looks like I only need to change the back (circular part) as the front square part appears the same. True?

I do have Xmod 1.8, one of the last upgrades I got before I stopped playing much. That and a never used Scepter barrel kit.

I need to get a battery from tuna so it works out! Stoked to be back in the game! Looking at building a new mag too now, always wanted a pneumag with eyes or something.... Logic still make a pneumag frame? Saw tuna has a new frame too.... Decisions, decisions!

[nak81783]

No, the entire ULT assembly needs to be replaced with an RT on/off with .712" pin and quad oring.

Someone else will have to chime in on the pneumag. I have no experience with them. Search the recents threads. There was something on electros vs pneus vs mechs. Good luck, and have fun with whatever build you decide on.

[athomas]

Well, it did work... I used it set up this way for a few years. I didn't use mech mode much though.... Can I just switch the on/off? Or do I need a whole new valve?

Sometimes the ULT will work. It just isn't ideal and can cause issues. If everything is tuned properly and you are using a good air tank regulator, you might get away with it until something gets dirty and slows down the sear rotation. You just need to switch the on-off assembly as mentioned.

A pneumag is an air assisted mechanical trigger frame. It can't use eyes. The level 10 takes care of that though.