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Thread: Brand new to automags !

  1. #31
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    unless the o-ring that goes on the regulator adjustment nut (just a standard barrel o-ring) is somehow not there, there is no way it's backing itself out. a low velocity shot could be user-error (usually as a result of someone new to automags shooting too quickly and short-stroking the trigger), it could be a misfeed or a partial roll-out though too. or it could just be a smaller sized paintball. if it's just one shot, i would lean more towards the paintball and not worry about it. if the velocity gradually decreases after every shot, then goes back up after you sit for 30 seconds or so and drops again when you resume firing, that's the valve. i'd probably double-check the regulator seat o-ring to make sure there is no dirt or debris in there if that was the case.

  2. #32
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    Awesome info ! The string of a hundred or so balls was laser but something definitely started to effect velocity. Maybe it has to do with the on off Asa or the tank ? I'll check the regulator seat o ring maybe the oil pushed some left over crud through. The gage on the tank says I still have 2000psi so I'd assume I'd still be in good shape there.
    The killa detents are magnetic right ? Is that just for ease of maintaining or is that how they actually hold the ball in like a magnetic field. .... "Never mind no way it's that "
    If I shim the trigger won't I need a longer trigger pin ? And where does one find shims ?

  3. #33
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    Any way to add the ule trigger kit to an rt ?
    Mine on that double trigger seems really long

  4. #34
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    Any way to add the ule trigger kit to an rt ?
    Mine on that double trigger seems really long
    no, the the ule on/off is only for x-valves and some newer emag / rt pro valves. some people have had their valves milled to accept it though, but i wouldn't recommend using it with a benchmark frame. the benchmark frame contacts the trigger rod much closer to the pivot than other frames, giving you more leverage which results in an easier trigger pull. with the ult, it might be too soft and make it easier to short-stroke. i guess i could test it though and see for myself.

    gas your gun up, put the safety on and pull the trigger. as long as the trigger rod does not contact the back of the trigger, it should be fine. it's just a different design than other frames is all.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    If I shim the trigger won't I need a longer trigger pin ? And where does one find shims ?
    No. The shim only fills the gap that already exists beside the trigger. You can order shims at specialty hardware stores, online, or you can make some yourself using shim stock.

    The killa detents use magnets instead of a spring to hold the detent out toward the ball. You can adjust the tension by adjusting how close the outer magnet is to the inner one.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #36
    Im glad you bought that! If i looked at it one more time... lol

  7. #37
    A cheaper option for high pressure ( for me in canada anyways) was a used myth g3 reg and a hp spring kit,the kit was 11 bucks i think.. insane rof at around 950 psi

  8. #38
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    How does a higher tank out put pressure increase trigger bounce if before the air actually gets anywhere the pressure is reduced by the automags reg ?

  9. #39
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    An RT/X-Valve uses unregulated air to reset the trigger and fill the chamber. It is regulated as it fills, not before. This is how RT/X-Valves differ from Classic valves.
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  10. #40
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    Ok update. Bought a chrono battery and velocity is jumping all over as well as the leak is back if I turn the velocity up to 288ish there is a leak out the back of the reg. if I turn it down it stops but the chronoed velocity when it isn't leaking is around 245 -260 also either the banjo is STILL leaking again or it sounds like a leak could be coming from around the vertical feed somewhere. I'll prolly just replace every o ring on the thing but wanted to check and see if there was anything else specific I should be on the look out for

  11. #41
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    Completely disassembled gun I don't think it has a level 10 bolt kit like it was supposed to. The spring on the bolt looks exactly the same as an rt bolt spring. The brass valve between the reg and the valve has three small o rings the middle one appears to be missing a piece

  12. #42
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    http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/manual.shtml

    Please go here. Use the RT blow up diagram to get the proper terms. It will help us help you.

    Also, page 13 of the RT ULE/Tac-1 manual shows the Level 7 and Level 10 bolt configurations. The one with more pieces is the Level 10.

    If it's venting out the back when trying to achieve higher velocity, it's probably an older style regulator piston. You need a newer, higher pressure one to work with the Level 10, since it works at a higher pressure than the Level 7.

    Level 7s and 10s can both use the same springs, so don't worry about that. Let us know if you have a Level 10, and we can direct you to a post on how to tune it.
    Last edited by nak81783; 08-30-2015 at 11:54 AM.

  13. #43
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    Out of air and I probably made it worse. Any one know how much tuna man charges ?

  14. #44
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    do you mean the middle o-ring on the banjo bolt is missing a piece? if so, that would certainly cause it to leak lol.

    it's kind of a pain to change the banjo bolt o-rings. if the middle o-ring needs to be changed, get it off, and move the o-ring closest to the threads up to the middle spot. then install a new o-ring in the groove closest to the threads.
    Last edited by Cyco-Dude; 08-30-2015 at 07:56 PM.

  15. #45
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    My bolt does have the extra piece that's kind of like a nipple coming out the back. But it doesn't appear to have all those other parts either.

  16. #46
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    Middle o ring on the valve pin that fits between the regulator body and the valve assembly.

  17. #47
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    Bolt looks like part number 002011

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    Ok update. Bought a chrono battery and velocity is jumping all over as well as the leak is back if I turn the velocity up to 288ish there is a leak out the back of the reg. if I turn it down it stops but the chronoed velocity when it isn't leaking is around 245 -260 ...
    This usually indicates a low pressure regulator piston assembly. I wonder if it has been updated to the newer higher pressure versions that are needed for the level 10 operation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    ... also either the banjo is STILL leaking again or it sounds like a leak could be coming from around the vertical feed somewhere. I'll prolly just replace every o ring on the thing but wanted to check and see if there was anything else specific I should be on the look out for
    A leaks that sounds like it is coming from around the vertical feed is often a leak out the powertube. That could be the white level 10 oring. Wiggle the front of the bolt and see if the sound changes. If it does, then you will know that it is the powertube area for sure.

  19. #49
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    Where can I get a high pressure piston assembly pretty sure I need that. Also have have small success with a banjo shim at least it's progress

  20. #50
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    Also probably in the market for level 10 bolt and an xvalve "or whatever it's called" for a standard 68 mag. Since if I can't fix the classic then I still need something before the big game I'm playing in October 4th

  21. #51
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    new x valve comes with a level 10.

  22. #52
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    Does anyone know if you can tell what reg piston I have installed ? Whether it's the new high pressure or if it's the old original

  23. #53
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    tunaman5@verizon.net

    Talk to Tuna. He'll probably have the parts you need or can fix your markers if you send them to him.

  24. #54
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    My bolt does have the extra piece that's kind of like a nipple coming out the back.
    then you have a level 10 bolt. if in doubt, simply post a picture. the other pieces, in order of which one you install first, would be a white plastic washer, a brass carrier with a urethane o-ring inside (level 10 / regulator seat o-ring...same size). the carrier will have a thin black o-ring around it. finally you have the level 10 powertube tip, which is different than the level 7 tip. there are also thin metal shims pictured, but you shouldn't need them, so leave them out.

  25. #55
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    Got a brand new banjo bolt from agd today in the mail. Looks like the flange is bigger and also doesn't thread in as far. Hoping this might make the difference have to wait to get more air tomorrow. Also got a nice disruptive barrel in a smaller bore size. Seems to fit the paint well.

  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    Any way to add the ule trigger kit to an rt ?
    Mine on that double trigger seems really long
    Big evil has one he modified to take a ULT.

  27. #57
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    Ok you gurus got a chance to go out and play mag worked great but occasionally the bolt wouldn't go back far enough to fully lock the sear and I'd have to tap the bolt back with a squeegie. Any ideas ?

  28. #58
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    lvl 10 carrier too small, as posted on facebook. it could also be the body flexing (frame screw or banjo bolt screwed too tight), or maybe the ball detent screwed in too far and it's hitting the bolt.

  29. #59
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    Thanks ! It seems sometimes screwing in banjo a little more adds additional pressure and the bolt will fix itself. This is not a hundred percent as sometimes it just makes the banjo leak more

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