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Thread: Brand new to automags !

  1. #1
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    Brand new to automags !

    Hi everyone ! I grew up playing paintball it was a family business. Then I went away to college,got married, sold all my gear, had a kid, missed paintball terribly, and decided to get back in. I was a cocker smith and pretty much used them exclusively. Spent some time behind a shoebox shocker and an sft. But I don't really want or like electros. So when I decided to get back into it "at the beginning of the week (lol) " I decided to go mags. I have never owned one and have barely ever shot one. But they are still around when every other company I grew up with is gone, so I thought there must be something to them. I got what I think is a good deal on eBay for a custom classic rt with a vertical body similar to the ule. I've watched a couple videos and the concept behind the marker seems to make sense. Any ways I guess I'm just looking for noob tips and or tricks. I'd like to know how to maximize accuracy and distance since the rof will take care of itself with an rt
    Thanks and happy gunning
    Get some !

    Ps here is the new toy
    Hopefully I did good
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  2. #2
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    oil it every time you use it, helps keep the o rings alive. with today's paint accuracy is not what it used to be. that marker will only run on hpa.

  3. #3
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    You REALLY started with the right foot! Awesome splashed Classic RT! You will have tons of fun with it.

    Advice number 1: have it sent to Tunaman and ask him to install a level 10 bolt and fine tune it for you
    Advice number 2: as vintage said, don't save on oil and you will be happy
    Advice number 3: never put CO2 into it. This valve only works with compressed air

    Good luck and welcome!


  4. #4
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    Is that due to the smaller diameter ball ? I have heard most paint is .684 now and as such I've started looking for a barrel kit. Seems like I'll be going the way of the deadlywind fibur. It was disclosed to me that there appears to be a occasional small leak from the banjo. I've ordered a o ring rebuild kit. Anything I should be on the lookout for ?

  5. #5
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    Mpsd
    It should be arriving with the level 10 installed and tuned. I do wonder about the sear though it seems like it sticks out of the frame awful far. Supposed to be a stock rt frame.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    Mpsd
    It should be arriving with the level 10 installed and tuned. I do wonder about the sear though it seems like it sticks out of the frame awful far. Supposed to be a stock rt frame.
    That's an aftermarket splashed frame but by the looks, it's fine, even though the pic is small. Air it up and try it, before doing anything else, then.

  7. #7
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    I was hoping it would be here by Saturday so I could go try it but no luck. I'll let you know how it goes when I gas it up.
    Thanks !

  8. #8
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    That is an Xmagterror aluminum body on that beast. I suspect it might already have a level 10 bolt in it, especially since it has a pretty significant aluminum body upgrade. Check to see if it has a level 10 or level 7 bolt. Inspect it when it arrives, including dissassembling the valve and checking the orings. Replace any yellowed orings. I suspect they might be good since the gun has had some recent upgrades.

    Get a good high output tank with a high flow rate. You will need an oring kit. Get the X-valve kit, because it has the orings for the level 10. You will need carriers so that you can tune your level 10 bolt. Get a couple of extra bolt springs, the long (red) ones. The red might not be available, so get grey if they aren't. Bolt springs are consumable and do wear out.

    If it has a banjo oring leak, deburr the area around the banjo bolt, including the goove in the bolt where the oring sits.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  9. #9
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    Thanks athomas! It is in fact xmagterror with a level ten. Good to know about the o ring kit I ordered a regular rt one so I'll make sure to pick up an xvalve. Ill probably use one entire kit right at the beginning that way I know everything is new. How often do you think I'll go through bolt springs ? Can you tell when they aren't working right anymore?

  10. #10
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    well...normally i would agree with an x-valve rebuild kit for a reactive valve with a level 10 bolt, but the rt classic would be the exception. you need the banjo bolt o-rings, which the x-valve rebuild kit does not include. also, the rt rebuild kit does include two regulator seat o-rings, which are the same size o-rings that you use with the level 10 bolt. since you only need one, you can use the other one for the level 10 carrier if it ever needed to be replaced.

    although, i'm curious why you would need to get another rebuild kit? did this not come with one already? i recall that it did...unless they were used rebuilding the valve. as for the paint / barrel...who cares. use that barrel; it matches the gun!

    finally...this is a lot of gun for a first-time automag owner, i have to say. you might have been better off with a classic automag just to test the waters...reactive valves, and rt classics in general, can be a little more finicky. it sure is a looker though! also, you could have bought it for a bit less if you checked the forum first lol. seller would have made more money to...would have been a win-win.

  11. #11
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    As a general rule of thumb on bolt springs, if they do not extend beyond the end more than say by 1/8", then you should replace it. Length of the life of a spring is kinda tough but you should easily get 15 cases out of one before having to worry about replacement. I have a Classic valve and adhere to the rule of thumb mentioned earlier and never pay attention to shot count. It is substantial, however.

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  13. #13
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    Well dang ! Too bad I didn't know about this forum BEFOREHAND but live and learn. Good news is now you all know the exact gun/issue that I'll be receiving. So hopefully if I'm hitting a wall, we can all find a solution. I do like the ule mags better for there simplicity and non proprietary parts. But one of the main reasons I got back into paintball was feeling nostalgic. I looked at having a new mag built by AGD but it cost more then I initially wanted to spend. THEN I saw this beauty. It had the classic nostalgia AND modern usefulness so I was smitten. Hopefully not bitten guess we will see. And the reason that I'll buy and keep several more kits is if I have it I won't need it. And be prepared. I hope AGD stays in business for many many more years but judging by the stripped down inventory of the web site I don't think so. It seems like the banjo is the weak link in the classic system and because I do like to tinker I picked up a dirt cheap classic 68 that I will probably end up x modding. I have it in mind to make it stealth nothing fancy at all then if I'm ever playing and people get to antsy about the classic I can play with my "backup" heheh

  14. #14
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    As far as the foregrip rubber spinning, try some electric tape under the rubber to give it something to grip to. If you want to keep that barrel but want the freak option, there is a guy on this forum freak boring stock barrels....

  15. #15
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    Kfketch I. MUST. HAVE. THIS. how,where do I find this person. Shut up and take my money !!!?!!

  16. #16
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    Cyco-Dude does bring up a good point about the banjo orings. If the oring kits were included in the purchase, then you are probably good to go except for the carriers. You will need a set of carriers to tune your level 10 bolt if you ever have to change the powertube carrier oring.

    The number of cycles before a bolt spring is worn out is about 30000. You'll notice random "chuffing" and coughing when it happens. If you play walk-on paintball, its not an issue. If you play competition paintball, or play in a big game where you want some guarantee of performance, then you will want to change the spring before it shows signs of wear. The 1/8" of spring showing past the front of the bolt was for the gold spring. The longer red and grey springs stay longer even when they are worn out.

    X-modding was for the electronic in an emag. Xmod is an updated program.

  17. #17
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    Sorry I meant that I'll be putting an xvalve and level ten bolt kit into the stock 68 mag at some point

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  19. #19
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    Awesome !!

  20. #20
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    Ok everyone the mag arrived today so I went to the local store and got some air. Upon first gassing it there is In Fact some leak near the banjo. Not a hundred percent sure if it is actually coming from there. Greased banjo and ran about 4-5 drops of oil through the Asa. 20-50 balls latter all leaking stopped. Here are my observations. No idea about velocity because my chronos battery was dead. But it was a full 4500psi 69ci tank and after a bag of 500 it is at about 2000psi where is this in the efficiency range? Didn't chop any paint but did occasionally have a ball come out and just sorta of peeter out of the barrel. Trigger has a ton of side to side motion. And there doesn't seem to be any noticeable rt action.
    Any advice is welcome.

  21. #21
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    Got gun did a quick review see earlier post for details please reply with thoughts
    Thanks !

  22. #22
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    Ps how do you post video or pictures

  23. #23
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    I use photobucket, but any photo hosting site will do. Then just copy and past the link.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    Ok everyone the mag arrived today so I went to the local store and got some air. Upon first gassing it there is In Fact some leak near the banjo. Not a hundred percent sure if it is actually coming from there. Greased banjo and ran about 4-5 drops of oil through the Asa. 20-50 balls latter all leaking stopped. Here are my observations. No idea about velocity because my chronos battery was dead. But it was a full 4500psi 69ci tank and after a bag of 500 it is at about 2000psi where is this in the efficiency range? Didn't chop any paint but did occasionally have a ball come out and just sorta of peeter out of the barrel. Trigger has a ton of side to side motion. And there doesn't seem to be any noticeable rt action.
    Any advice is welcome.
    around 15 balls per cubic inch is standard. level 10 uses slightly more air than level 7. check your detent, it may not be in far enough. more input pressure or shorter on/off pin for rt effect, however all valves rt at different rates and trigger positions. with new o rings it might need broke in a little for more rt effect. can't tell what frame from pics but side to side slop can be shimmed out with patience.

  25. #25
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    But it was a full 4500psi 69ci tank and after a bag of 500 it is at about 2000psi where is this in the efficiency range? Didn't chop any paint but did occasionally have a ball come out and just sorta of peeter out of the barrel. Trigger has a ton of side to side motion. And there doesn't seem to be any noticeable rt action.
    Any advice is welcome.
    automags are not the most efficient things in the world...2k psi for 500 paintballs seems about right to me though. a ball that flopped out of the barrel...what paint are you using? did you ever notice more than one paintball being fired at once? did you pull the trigger all the way? speaking of benchmark triggers, they do have a bit iof side-to-side play; it doesn't affect anything and it's not noticeable during normal operation (at least for me it's not).

    if you want more trigger bounce, you need higher input pressures. either a ninja shp regulator, or just a standard reg with an extra red shim (you get them in a ninja reg rebuild kit) would help. otherwise, just keep playing with it...as the o-rings break in, the pin moves easier and the trigger is easier to bounce. you can also check the length of the on/off pin...it shouldn't be longer than .750" (stock length; although agd supposedly supplies .745" now).

    Quote Originally Posted by Maveric08 View Post
    Ps how do you post video or pictures
    google...literally. i use picasa for pictures and youtube for video. once uploaded, you can just use the icons above the text box to insert them.

  26. #26
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    Thanks gang I am using some app to keep up to date on this forum so it is t as feature rich as the website. Copying and pasting a link should work though "duh" lol there did seem to be more then one ball towards the end of the 500 shot and it also seemed that the velocity started to noticeably drop off maybe the reg was backing out. I'm looking for a tourney cap lock by the way hopefully to help prevent that. The mag would occasionally sound different kinda like a whoosh don't know if that's user error and I'm doing something dumb with the trigger pull or it it's actually the gun acting up. It is a gi sportz tank can those refs be adjusted ? The paint is gi sportz 2 star as that's what the field I'll be playing the most at uses. It's slightly smaller then my bore but not terrible the ball is loose but it doesn't roll out completely

  27. #27
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    There are no tourny caps for retro style valves. You can't turn the regulator adjustment without wrenches when the valve has no air attached, and definately not with air attached.

    The woosh you hear could be the level 10 kicking in if the ball is rolling forward in the breach and the next ball in the stack is sticking farther into the breach. If you are getting the odd roll out, then the smaller paint might be rolling forward, especially if you are using a force fed hopper. Force fed hoppers can cause the balls to push past the detents if the detents barely contact the sides of the balls.

  28. #28
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    The detents are angel threaded screw in style. Are they adjustable will a small bore barrel help ? What about the occasional double ball and then the velocity drop off towards the last hundred rounds

  29. #29
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    Also how do I go about shimming the side to side play in the trigger ?

  30. #30
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    Velocity drop off after just a few hundred rounds doesn't make sense unless something changed.

    The detents aren't adjustable. A small bore barrel might help a bit, but won't solve the problem. The breach area and detents are the issue when dealing with small paint sizes. You could try killa detents. I believe there is some adjustability in those.

    The trigger can be shimmed by removing the trigger pin and adding a shim or two between the side of the trigger and the frame. Select a shim that fits the size of the pin. When you install the pin, it will hold the shim in place beside the trigger. The removal of the gap will prevent the trigger from moving side to side and make the trigger pull much more crisp.

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