Level 10 oddball leak troubleshooting - Update - figured out

[Pghp8ntballer]

Well, I started fresh with the L10 tuning. Got a bit of a leak down barrel. So I ran some more oil in it and cycled a ton. Still a minor hiss. So I swapped to the next smaller carrier. Aired up, slight hiss, fired a few times and gone! Fired a few more times... louder hiss? A few more times and nothing. A few more times minor hiss. Ok, smallest carrier time. It did the exact same thing again. No leak, slight leak, and minor leak that is unpredictable. So I ran some more oil in it, cycled a ton, and then shot some reball. It shoots between 260-310 fps no problem. I dumped about 50-60 reballs in the hopper. About 2/3's through the hopper, it did a double cycle like the sear slipped. Weird. I figured a weird ball or something goofy. Keep shooting and it does it again. So I take the reballs out and just go crazy cycling just air. The skipping got worse. Now it almost cycles full auto with the trigger pulled. It runs like 10-30 cycles and stops. All the while with various levels of leaking. I tried my stock on/off. Same deal completely. Different top on/off o-rings, same deal. So I pulled the sear and check for wear. Nothing noticeable especially compared to my (AM/MM) mag sear. But I noticed his (RT) sear seems to me slightly bent. See the pic below. I don't know if this is the cause, a result of something else, or what the heck is going on.

I still need to try putting his complete valve in my gun, and try swapping in my on/off and all o-rings. I am very perplexed.



Tony

[Pghp8ntballer]

Ok, finally got this figured out.

Once again, I put my complete and leak free Level 10 kit out of my Smart Mag in Christian's mag. His gun shoots without issue. After everything, this tells me that the tolerances of his L10 kit must be off in some way.

I reinstalled his Level 7 bolt and got the velocity set. All good to go.

[Laku]

My first suspect would be the bolt given the history. You could try swapping just that to see what happens.

[Pghp8ntballer]

I seriously suspect the bolt also. But i cant remember all of my troubleshooting attempts. It is back up and running as a L7 so I am hesitant to troubleshoot any further.

[Laku]

I can understand that. You could test it on your own gun as well. If the bolt is defective it should also misbehave in your valve.

[ChristianFromPitt]

So I contacted AGD. I am getting a new level 10 bolt for my kit.

However the issue may be I'm trying to use a classic valve with a classic on/off on a ULE body. The level 10 triggers the on/off and the ULE body may be catching at that point, not shutting off air to the valve. In order to use this non-AGD body I may need a X valve or RT valve with a appropriate on/off installed. All things considered, tollerances are specific to this working properly and the valve/bolt/body combination just might have that hiss no matter what since it's pieces together parts according to AGD. The body is not a AGD ULE body so they don't stand behind it working together but they will honor the level 10 bolt back out issue. I don't want to put in a new valve just to get the ULE body to work with the level 10.

So I will get the new bolt but if it doesn't work right, I'll sell the level 10 to fund another project.

[Laku]

What kind of ule body is it?

If the on/off would caught the body then it would do so with lvl 7 bolt as well. At least I can't figure out how it would be different by just changing bolt.

[Spider-TW]

What kind of ule body is it?

^^^ Helios?

I've had a few classics with a level 10, and one of my favorite markers still has a AGD ULE body and classic valve. It mows muppets.

[ChristianFromPitt]

It's an AGD body, but according to them, they didn't make a chrome polished body with blue accents. So they view this as an edited/not stock AGD body. It was polished not by AGD so it could be trimmed/edited/changed in some way. I can't confirm what this body looked like but believe it was original blue and someone polished the exterior. However I would need to send it in to have it tuned but I can get a bolt and attempt to assemble it myself.

[athomas]

The valves are all the same. If one works, they all work. Level 7 bolts are a little more forgiving than level 10 bolts because the force pushing the bolt is much greater than the spring holding it back. That being said, if the body is causing an issue on the level 10, it would also be causing an issue on the level 7. You just might not see if for a while.

I'm guessing that the body is fine. You can mix and match pieces as long as the main part of the body is AGD ULE, and none of the other parts interfere with the bolt travel. The body diameter is the only real thing on an AGD body that will affect operation. As long as it hasn't been altered, the spacing for the on-off and sear should be fine, and as long as the pim (the part that contains the threaded hole) lines up with the hole in the rail, you are good to go.

When the new bolt comes back install everything and tune it according the the level 10 guide listed here on AO in the level 10 tech thread. I'm betting everything will work fine.

[Pghp8ntballer]

We think it might be fixed with cranking down the thumbscrew and front frame screw as well as the new bolt. That is the only thing we really did not try with his kit.

[athomas]

Yeah. A tight thumbscrew holds the valve tight to the rail and helps pull the body into alignment in the event that the body is not perfectly lined up on its own.