Forum Newb and Automag Newb...couple questions :)

[Abubaca]

What's up everyone!? This is my first post, so first off, "Hello"

I've played quite a bit over the years, but took some time off, and just got back into playing paintball about 2 years ago. Got my wife and son into playing as well, and this will be our third "season". They both love Planet Eclipse, but I grew up with Spyders and Tippmans. First gun was actually a PMI tracer. Anyhow, I've vowed to stay mechanical. Always wanted either a Autococker or an Automag since they were the guns I couldn't afford when younger. The Empire Resurrection, new, with warranty from the local shop was hard to pass up, and it's served me well. However, I just found a deal on my first AGD product. Picked up a bone stock Minimag off CL. Guy said he played one time. Who knows, but it's sure nice! Shoots OK, but I've got a decent leak coming from the quick disconnect by the valve. Been doing a lot of reading, and I have a plan, and some questions.

First task is fix the leaks. I have plenty of hose and fittings, so "hopefully" that'll be a fairly quick fix.
Second would be a basic, no upgrade overhaul. I've seen a few AGD O-ring kits on a few vendor sites. Figured that'll be next.
Those two should hopefully get me playing.

As far as upgrades, I have to admit I've become spoiled by the low-rise vertical feed guns, and I think a new ULE body may be in order. First question....can this be used with no other upgrades? I've looked for a tech article or instructions but haven't found any. It seams fairly intuitive. ...I've got the Empire barrel kit, as well as several DYE UL barrel backs and fronts, all with cocker threads of course. ULE Seems like worthwhile upgrade.

I'd like to play with it is as is, once the body is swapped on. Running a rotor up top, I'm hoping it'll out feed my fat fingers and original valve, and somewhat limit chops. My understand is that in the day, the vavle/mags were TOO fast for hoppers to keep up. Is my logic sound? I'm not sure I'm ready to invest in the X-valve just yet. Money isn't the issue, I just want to avoid essentially building a brand new gun that will WAY out perform my needs. My wife says I don't know the meaning of "good enough" but I'm trying to learn.

Anyhow, thanks in advance for any input, and thanks for listening to newbie rambling.

[BiNumber3]

Yep, ULE bodies can be used without any further modification, just have to remove the twistlock assembly from the rail. You might want to get a clamping feedneck for it, you can pick them up new from CCM for about $20, they use angel threading.

For the rebuild, mag O-rings can last quite a while if taken care of, just drop a few drops of oil into the ASA before firing, will usually cure minor leaks as well. Though if you open it up, and the O-rings clearly look in need of replacement, then might as well, you'll learn about rebuilding in the process


Should you not get the ULE body quite yet:
Depending on how old the mag is, it "might" need a parabolic feed plug, the plastic plug at the end of the feedneck, I think the older ones were more straight, preventing smooth feeding.
PTP carries some of the best elbows out there, if you don't have one, or if the one you have breaks.

The rotor should keep up fine, I was actually wondering that myself, as I have lvl 10 bolts on all my mags, if I could just swap back to lvl 7 with a force feed on top lol.



Also, another easy upgrade if you want in the future, you can drop an RT style on/off assembly into the valve, which will lighten the trigger pull a good amount.

[Nobody]

Welcome back to paintball.

Reseal the air input. Oil, is a mag's best friend. KC Troublefree or Outkast oil(same thing) is the best oils you can use. Other people have used other oils but never had a problem with my KC Troublefree.

Mags are all modular. So you can use just about any AGD product(except for RT specific parts). Replacing the body with a ULE is literally just 2 bolts and that is it.

The rotor will help but the only way to definitively eliminate chops is with a L10 bolt. Best $70 you can spend. It fits all mag valves, except valves marked rental(which just have to be drilled out to except the bolt stem) and when it is tuned, it will not chop a ball ever, regardless of the loader.

A classic can shoot 15bps or so, give or take. I have never out run a classic.

So get a L10 first, then the ULE. After that its all about looks and feel. Intelliframe for a double trigger, Different rails, foregrips, etc..

[going_home]

One of the longest first posts ever.

[Abubaca]

One of the longest first posts ever.

I believe in being thorough. Haha....plus I have to tell my story. Get you invested in what I'm doing....makes ya more likely to help!!!! ...and I'm no stranger to forums so I figure I might as well jump right in.

[blackdeath1k]

I like this guy ⬆⬆⬆⬆

Tries and answered all the questions he can before they are asked.

I've recently purchased my first "new to me" PE product. It is nice. Kinda depressing finally converting to the dark side with electronic markers.

As for mags.... I used a classic mag back in the early 90s. And a classicRT from late 90s to current. I say that because the FF loader discussion has been a love hate relationship for me with my RT in recent years. To be honest I'm 90% sure that it's the combination of the FF loader with the nubbin detents that cause me most of my headaches now. I'm currently in the process of testing finger detents in place of the nubbins in my TL barrels. But in short all the years with agitated VL loaders there was issues with overshooting the hoppers. It was a given and we knew it going in. As long as you don't overshoot the loader or short stroak the trigger you were golden. Now I don't ever chop with a L7 and FF. But I do get barrel breaks. Most of the time close enough to the bolt that I would swear the FF hopper is pushing the balls at least partially past the nubbin. And then the balls get crushed. That's why I'm starting to play with the theory of using finger detents.

All and all you will love your mag if your a fan of mech markers. I sure wouldn't trade old faithful for anything.

[Nobody]

Don't mind going_home. He likes things short as possible: feednecks, barrels, posts, answers, attention span & his own mags working for a period of time.

[vintage]

I buy my rebuild kits from either AGD or Tuna. my Z2 prophecy keeps up with any and all of my mags easily as does my vmax 2 for that matter. I like powerfeeds my self but warp feeds even more. the thing about mags is they are very customizable and when your done you have enough parts for another.

welcome to the addiction that is the Automag.

[Abubaca]

Tries and answered all the questions he can before they are asked.

Like I said, I'm on other forums for other things. While I'm always happy to be social, you DO see a lot of the same....old....questions. Saves ME time, and YOU the redundant typing if I do my research first.

I've recently purchased my first "new to me" PE product. It is nice. Kinda depressing finally converting to the dark side with electronic markers.

Can't go wrong with PE. ...they....just....keep....working! -but I still like old school mechanicals

....so I got all the macrolines on, and no more leaks! First time I've fired it with no leaks! ....and velocity seams very erratic. I have a back yard makeshift range I test on, and while I don't have a chrono, I'm pretty confident I can eyeball it above or below around 250fps. As long as I can put together a few strings, I call it good enough until I dial in at the field. ...I might've got a few in the ballpark, but several shots WAY low. Now....this is with NO maintenance at all. Guy said it worked, it was clearly oiled (although to what end I have no idea). Could've just popped the valve out and lathered it up! ....I'm gonna pick up the O-rings and go through it. Piece of mind if nothing else. ...also gonna go see the local PE tech at the shop. He showed me the ins and outs of the Resurrection, timing etc. etc. He's about my age, and I'm gonna bet lunch he knows Automags too.

[BiNumber3]

What kind of air tank are you using? Classic Mags need at least 650psi output tanks iirc, RT valves needing more like 800 psi.

[Abubaca]

Using a Ninja CF tank with their "standard" reg. Said to come set to 800psi, and I certainly haven't ever messed with it....but....I suppose anything is possible.

[vintage]

800 is the minimum tank output for all mags. if you tinker with one long enough you might get it to run at 650 but your better off at 800 to 900 psi. if its been sitting for a while the o rings might be too dry but you can over oil them. for piece of mind like you said I would just go thru and replace them all except for the one on the power tip, it only holds the tip in place and does not need replaced unless it its broken. good luck with your pe tech. most people now days look at a mag and scratch their head.

[blackdeath1k]

Yup. Most people now question what my RT is. But if his tech is from the autococker days good chance he may know mags as well.

As far as input pressure. I've never had any reliable luck under 800psi. That's been my major cutoff from everything I've seen.

[Nobody]

You do not need to over pressure mags. A classic can run fine on 800psi, as well as a Retro, EMag, & Xvalve.

Without a chrono, you don't know what you are dealing with. Pull the reg piston, pack it with white lithum grease. That should help. Though the age of the gun, you might need a fresh reg piston. Again, you don't know till you run it under a chrono.

Also, check your detent. Since you are probably using the stock minimag barrel, it is buge and severely overbored on the paint. So your low velocity might be a result of the rotor pushing passed the detent and thus, not sitting fully in the breech. You can recreate this by pulling the valve, with the loader on and with a squeegee, push the ball down the barrel. Look to see where the ball lands.

[athomas]

Make sure you don't put any grease or oil on the outside of your bolt or on your bolt spring. Any oil or grease there will transfer to the balls and cause erratic velocity and inaccuracy.

[Abubaca]

Yeah, the PE tech helped me a lot with the Resurrection. I wanted to know the ins and outs and he went through everything. Not saying I remembered it all, but he sure knew his stuff. We'll see what he knows about Automags!

I ordered the O rings etc. etc., so that'll be next.

....so with regard to tank pressure. I've been through several steel tanks and a few Cf tanks, and I don't think I ever was concerned about pressure. What tank would YOU guys suggest? I guess obviously some go over 800psi, right? Hate to buy another tank, but if I have to I have to.

[BiNumber3]

Easy enough test would just be to put a gauge somewhere Sounds like the Ninja should be fine though.

[blackdeath1k]

If you don't notice any shoot down or other odd velocity issues don't worry bout a new tank.

[Abubaca]

Once I get all those O rings installed, I'll give it another go up at the field with a chrono. No more guessing. Thanks for the replies, guys.