RT Classic bolt stick

[OneSelfLost]

Hey everyone, I'm just about at my wits end here, isn't troubleshooting fun!?!? I'm having a hum-diddly-hoo of a good friggin time!

I picked up an RT Classic super cheap last week. I was told it was leaking, that's cool, no problem. Turns out it was leaking from every orifice. Swapped out banjo orings, the reg seat, and the on/off orings and finally, its not spewing. I had to shorted up the trigger rod too.. What did this guy do to this thing? Never seen one so out of whack.

Now, the damn bolt keeps sticking and the only way to reset it is with a squeegee. Its a LVL 7, which from what I understand just needs a longer power tube spacer, easy enough but I don't have one. I swapped out the power tube oring already and its made no difference. Can I use lvlx spacers to lengthen out the lvl7 spacer?

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,

[vintage]

the spacers go up/down in increments of .005. I don't know what the thickness of the shims are. have you made sure your body, grip frame and valve are aligned correctly?

[blackdeath1k]

Humor yourself. Tighten the banjo bolt with an Allen wrench and see if that fixes the issue. Don't crank it down. But substantially tighter than hand tight.

[OneSelfLost]

I've tried different stages of tightness on each if the two screws (including tighter than normal. It goes from as it is, to captain insane-o mode, and back, but no middle ground.

[Nobody]

Take apart the gun. Assemble normally but do not tighten the frame screw all the way. Install valve and start the banjo bolt. Tighten the frame screw, then go back to the banjo.

[Spider-TW]

Make sure the bolt is free to move through the washer in the body. I've had a body that I thought was beat into a big burr on the body washer. I scrubbed it out to see what I was doing and got a round file after it. What chipped off was some really old paint build up.

If you still think you need a longer spacer, you can put a level 10 shim on the top of the existing spacer.

[Nobody]

Or, get a L10 kit and modernise the SOB. Powertube spacer fixed, chopping fixed, chase down the leaks.

[OneSelfLost]

So I learned today to never trust an oring, even if it's new. That new reg seat I put in.. Million pieces! I'm wondering if I accidentally put an on/off top oring in there, rather than the reg seat oring who knows. Also, I put the lvlx kit from my X-mag in there, so it should be good (and the X-mag too, use the ace!) Anyway! It cycles consistently now, but is dangerously reactive, and sometimes fires on release. I'm going to check out the on/off and play with the alignment now.. I appreciate all the responses, keep em coming, its good to think

[Tunaman]

So I learned today to never trust an oring, even if it's new. That new reg seat I put in.. Million pieces! I'm wondering if I accidentally put an on/off top oring in there, rather than the reg seat oring who knows. Also, I put the lvlx kit from my X-mag in there, so it should be good (and the X-mag too, use the ace!) Anyway! It cycles consistently now, but is dangerously reactive, and sometimes fires on release. I'm going to check out the on/off and play with the alignment now.. I appreciate all the responses, keep em coming, its good to think

check the pin size...maybe they hacked it too short

[OneSelfLost]

Well, she started pissing again

Alright, payment sent to Tuna for an RT classic parts kit - lets do this right.

The pin size is pretty much dead on, 0.752", allowing uncertainty for the calipers.

And now we play the waiting game..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxtmQDCyLE8

Oh hey, I got another question. Trigger pin length with a Benchmark double finger.. Keep it the same length (1.945 I believe) ? Of course, the credit card gapping, but it's good to have a ballpark

[Tunaman]

Well, she started pissing again

Alright, payment sent to Tuna for an RT classic parts kit - lets do this right.

The pin size is pretty much dead on, 0.752", allowing uncertainty for the calipers.

And now we play the waiting game..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxtmQDCyLE8

Oh hey, I got another question. Trigger pin length with a Benchmark double finger.. Keep it the same length (1.945 I believe) ? Of course, the credit card gapping, but it's good to have a ballpark

Yes. Just as long as it doesnt
touch the trigger when gassed up. 1.985 is the AGD spec, but with Benchmark anything is possible

[Nobody]

Oh, you dod not say you had a benchmark frame. They allow a huge variable of effects that cause mags to not act right.

[OneSelfLost]

Oh, you dod not say you had a benchmark frame. They allow a huge variable of effects that cause mags to not act right.

Other than the pin gap, what else would cause issues with a trigger frame? I'd think as long as the screw holes are the correct distance from each other and are the right size, and the gapping is correct then it should work fine. Not trying to argue, I'd like to understand better though.

[Spider-TW]

Other than the pin gap, what else would cause issues with a trigger frame? I'd think as long as the screw holes are the correct distance from each other and are the right size, and the gapping is correct then it should work fine. Not trying to argue, I'd like to understand better though.

I didn't fiddle with the benchmark on my RT long enough to find anything in particular before I replaced it for ergonomic reasons. However, RTs are sensitive to the position and tension on the banjo bolt, so any tolerance issue there could be a problem.

Once you get an RT smoothed out, they roll just like any other mag.

[Nobody]

Other than the pin gap, what else would cause issues with a trigger frame? I'd think as long as the screw holes are the correct distance from each other and are the right size, and the gapping is correct then it should work fine. Not trying to argue, I'd like to understand better though.

What exactly, i do not know. I am just going off what the Mag Whisperer had said to me and he has far more experience and knowledge with mags & their frames than i do.

[OneSelfLost]

The complete rebuild kit fixed it! Granted only with the LVL 10 in there, the LVL 7 still sticks - needs a longer powertube space which I do not have. Thank you everyone for their help.

UPDATE! So a new sear fixed everything beyond the leaks! Turns out there the sear edge got mashed up by the previous owner and a chunk of it is sticking straight up.