X valve on/off assembly

[Reactiveraccoon]

Hi everyone,

I was able to get my hands on an X valve in a huge lot of paintball gear I picked up a few weeks ago. I was able to make it have the RT effect in my Automag RT Pro but not with my classic Automag. I have the Ninja SHP regulator so I know I'm getting a high enough psi. I pulled out the on/off assembly out of the X valve and noticed it didn't look like the right assembly plus it started to leak. I put the on/off assembly from my Automag RT Pro in to the X valve and it worked like clock work. I ordered a new on/off assembly for the X valve from Airgun Designs so I will be rocking and rolling soon.

My question to you all is does anyone know anything about this kind of on/off assembly? I provided some pictures so you can see what I am dealing with. Thanks!

[going_home]

Thats a ULT (ultra light trigger) on/off.

If you have the patience, by adding shims you can get your mag trigger walkable.

[BlueDragonX]

There's a fine line between "walkable" and "runaway" on the ULT, so you'll have to be preceise

Just don't bend the pin!

[Nobody]

Not really, as long as you don't feed the gun stupid pressure. 800psi and a ULT are a good combo.

[Reactiveraccoon]

Thank guys, I never saw the ULT before. I'm having trouble getting the ULT to work in the X valve, not sure what I'm doing wrong. I dialed in my level 10 kit to make sure that wasn't the problem. I have moved shims around on the ULT but get the same thing every time, the gun fires good if you shoot slow. If you shoot fast it seems like the X valve is having trouble recharging. My X valve is currently on a classic Automg but I don't see how that would make a difference. I would like to see how the ULT fires but right now I'm at a loss.

Anyone know what I could do to get this ULT up and running?

[Dirge]

Sounds like it's short stroking.

Try adding another shim or two and see what happens.

[Reactiveraccoon]

I tried from 1 shim all the way up to 5 shims with the same result.

[athomas]

It does sound like bolt stick might be affecting it. That is usually a level 10 related issue. Are you using the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak with no level 10 shims installed? Does it do it with the short gold bolt spring?

[Reactiveraccoon]

I took the level 10 carrier out because it was very tight and installed a new carry that moved freely without leaking. I have the short gold spring on it right now. The level 10 kit isn't giving me problems and I know this because I put my on/off pin assembly from my Automag RT Pro in to the X valve and it shot just fine. When I put the ULT on/off assembly back in the gun fires a times but if you rapid fire the gun it is like the valve isn't charging fast enough. Maybe the ULT assembly needs to be rebuilt?

[Cyco-Dude]

I took the level 10 carrier out because it was very tight and installed a new carry that moved freely without leaking. I have the short gold spring on it right now. The level 10 kit isn't giving me problems and I know this because I put my on/off pin assembly from my Automag RT Pro in to the X valve and it shot just fine. When I put the ULT on/off assembly back in the gun fires a times but if you rapid fire the gun it is like the valve isn't charging fast enough. Maybe the ULT assembly needs to be rebuilt?

ult can be more finicky; you really have to make sure you're getting a full release on the trigger when shooting it fast. honestly if it's not working for you, there's nothing wrong with sticking with the rt on/off...i prefer it to the ult myself.

[Spider-TW]

Make sure the trigger rod isn't forced against the back of the trigger when the marker is aired up and ready to fire. If the rod is pressing on the trigger, it could be keeping the sear from opening the on/off enough. You need about a credit card's worth of gap behind the trigger just to see that the trigger isn't in the way.

We can explain that more if you're not sure.

I only have one ULT automag, but I like it as it is and never mess with it unless it gets worn or dirty.

[Reactiveraccoon]

So I rebuilt my X valve and ULT (ultra light trigger) last night. I put the X valve in a Classic Automag with the ULT, to try it out but didn't get the RT effect. So I put the RT on/off assembly back in and got the RT effect. I then put the ULT back into the X valve and tried it with my Automag RT Pro. I worked just fine and even go the RT effect with a HPA tank at 850psi. Will the ULT work in the Classic Automags?? I saw Youtube videos where someone has a Classic mag with and X valve hosing paint. What am I doing wrong??? At least my Automga RT Pro is ripping now. Lol.

[Nobody]

So I rebuilt my X valve and ULT (ultra light trigger) last night. I put the X valve in a Classic Automag with the ULT, to try it out but didn't get the RT effect. So I put the RT on/off assembly back in and got the RT effect. I then put the ULT back into the X valve and tried it with my Automag RT Pro. I worked just fine and even go the RT effect with a HPA tank at 850psi. Will the ULT work in the Classic Automags?? I saw Youtube videos where someone has a Classic mag with and X valve hosing paint. What am I doing wrong??? At least my Automga RT Pro is ripping now. Lol.

Ult, to my knowledge, is just to 'lighten' the trigger, not an immediate rapid fire solution. The RT effect is a byproduct of the valve and combination of the input pressure and the sear. Hence the name "Ultra Light Trigger".

Now classic is more so the name of the valve and the rail/sear combo, than the setup. The drop 8n sear is the classic design, where the threaded RT sear is well, the more modern design.

Again, it will always be a combination of parts of the user than anything. RT Pro sears ware more capable of RT'ing than a classic sear. Also, bare in mimd that when you see a youtube vid, unless they specifically detail the parts used to build the gun, it is guess work on how they get their shooting ability.

[athomas]

Is your classic sear one of the older ones with the large mass or one of the newer smaller designs. If the sear shape is basically the same as the RT Pro sear, then it is the smaller one. If it has more metal on the front section from the tip to the lever, then it is one of the older ones. The older ones had more mass and were less prone to being reactive, especially with the lighter return force of the ULT. If you are unsure, post a picture of the sear.