Power tube oring down the bolt

[biggy238]

I picked up 68 automag in '10 from a kid that didn't know what it was. I attempted to set it up as a spydermag, but lost interest after purchasing a home.

I got this thing back out, and had it running controlled full auto briefly today.
Now, it is putting the power tube oring down the bolt after the first shot.

Since I'm a relative novice on these, I wanted to ask if I have a timing issue caused by the on/off (ult), or is this the nature of the (what I assume to be) early design, and I need to throw in a lvl 10 and go on with life?

I'm really hoping to get this dialed in and be able to do a ULE body, but want it fully functional before I drop the additional money into it.

Thank You
Kyle



Alpha Beta Test Monkey
Guang-Zoo Turbo Systems

[nak81783]

If your pic shows the order of how you had it assembled, the power tube oring should go behind the little spring.

Newer Level 7 valves use solid spacers of varying lengths instead of the spring, but my friend has been using the same little spring for over 15 years without issues.

Upgrading to a Level 10 would be money well spent.

[biggy238]

I found the same thing in my reading on Mac brown, the oring was out of order.

That's the way I got the gun.

Sorry for posting in the wrong section.



Assembled project. I put the stab on for the bling factor.

This thing likes gas. I've never run nitrogen until today, but the Tippmanns I gassed up today come nowhere near using this much gas. I hope having the ring in proper position calms that down some.

Alpha Beta Test Monkey
Guang-Zoo Turbo Systems

[nak81783]

Don't run a regulator on an Automag; it can starve the valve. The valve is a regulator and is all you need.

Automags are not air efficient compared to many (dare I say most) other markers.

[biggy238]

The stabs home is on my 98. I just threw it of for the look, it hasn't been on the mag during operation for the exact reason you mentioned. I don't think it's valved/sprung correctly for nitrogen anyway.


Sent from my Rotten Apple

[biggy238]

AutoMag NOOB
https://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=256197

Found this. Funny how much I had forgotten


Sent from my Rotten Apple

[nak81783]

I didn't read all that post. It's been a long night with a 4 year old with a stomach bug. But I did something similar about 12 (?) years ago. I went about it differently. My friend was the owner of Bandit Paintball and also a machinist. I designed and he machined a custom on/off assembly. It was somewhere in between a Classic on/off and ULT in terms of trigger pull weight and return force. Worked great for about 500 shots or so. But then we had similar problems with hardness. I think the pin wore significantly and then ended up bending. He had machined/modified my Spyder Mako Storm frame to trip the sear. I think we modified the pocket to turn the solenoid sideways. Shortly thereafter I bought an X-Valve. The frame did work on that with a ULT, but I didn't care for the trigger pull. So I bought another fried Mako frame, swapped guts, put it back on the Spyder, and donated that marker.

More recently I came up with a different on/off design that uses vacuum to function. The concept prototype was extremely light pull (I could fire the marker by shaking it) with reset almost the same as an RT on/off. The cool thing was you could adjust pull weight by varying vacuum. If the vacuum failed (released) it would function about like a Classic on/off. I couldn't find stock parts small enough, and life got busy for something that wouldn't have much in the way of monetary returns.

[biggy238]

Well, I got the stock sear and compared to the sear I made. The bolt catch area of the sear is too far forward, when referenced from the pivot pin. The bore for the cross pin is way too sloppy. I would like to do a bushing like the (RT?) for better stability.

I am really interested in the egomag, at least the pneumatics. I found a local supplier today.


Sent from my Rotten Apple

[maniacmechanic]

I didn't read all that post. It's been a long night with a 4 year old with a stomach bug. But I did something similar about 12 (?) years ago. I went about it differently. My friend was the owner of Bandit Paintball and also a machinist. I designed and he machined a custom on/off assembly. It was somewhere in between a Classic on/off and ULT in terms of trigger pull weight and return force. Worked great for about 500 shots or so. But then we had similar problems with hardness. I think the pin wore significantly and then ended up bending. He had machined/modified my Spyder Mako Storm frame to trip the sear. I think we modified the pocket to turn the solenoid sideways. Shortly thereafter I bought an X-Valve. The frame did work on that with a ULT, but I didn't care for the trigger pull. So I bought another fried Mako frame, swapped guts, put it back on the Spyder, and donated that marker.

More recently I came up with a different on/off design that uses vacuum to function. The concept prototype was extremely light pull (I could fire the marker by shaking it) with reset almost the same as an RT on/off. The cool thing was you could adjust pull weight by varying vacuum. If the vacuum failed (released) it would function about like a Classic on/off. I couldn't find stock parts small enough, and life got busy for something that wouldn't have much in the way of monetary returns.

where / what made the vacuum ???

[nak81783]

I should clarify. It was vacuum assist, which is why it would still function if the vacuum failed, just with a heavier pull. It was a completely different and more complex on/off than the RT version. Vacuum would be set with a pump. As long as the seals hold, it would maintain the lighter pull. The prototype was extremely crude and only proved the mechanical portion of the design. The vacuum portion was backed by things I do at work with vacuum. I just couldn't find stock standard parts small enough to put it all together. I had a post a while back about about centerless grinding and Swiss turning capabilities, which I believe would be necessary to make the components. It may also require some custom size orings.

[biggy238]

I spent some time last night modeling the stock sear. From there I'm going to make some cuts and hopefully have a reproducible spydermag sear with no slop.

Alpha Beta Test Monkey
Guang-Zoo Turbo Systems

[biggy238]

Aaaaaaaaaaand...... That's what I got.

I think it will have to have a tang added with two holes for milling

Alpha Beta Test Monkey
Guang-Zoo Turbo Systems