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Thread: Looking for an old 'cocker to learn on.

  1. #1

    Looking for an old 'cocker to learn on.

    What's up guys... ...so I know it's a 'Mag forum, but I honestly am a fan of both mags and cockers. As it is, my days at the field are split between my Resurrection and my ULE/classic mag. Anyhow, I can't help but look for another project. Why have 2 when you can have 3? ...and then 4? etc. etc. A friend of mine says he has an old, bone stock 2k3 autococker that he'd part with for a few bucks. Ask about condition and he said "it worked back then", mighta leaked a little and hasn't seen air in well over 10 years.

    My question pertains to that 2k3, as well as any old school cocker. Without going TOO far into detail (if that's possible) are there any real markers to avoid? I like interchangeability. I don't mind replacing parts, but I don't want one off proprietary stuff. I see TONS of markers on ebay/CL for well under $400, and deals to be found for under $200 if you look. Just curious what you guys think.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abubaca View Post
    What's up guys... ...so I know it's a 'Mag forum, but I honestly am a fan of both mags and cockers. As it is, my days at the field are split between my Resurrection and my ULE/classic mag. Anyhow, I can't help but look for another project. Why have 2 when you can have 3? ...and then 4? etc. etc. A friend of mine says he has an old, bone stock 2k3 autococker that he'd part with for a few bucks. Ask about condition and he said "it worked back then", mighta leaked a little and hasn't seen air in well over 10 years.

    My question pertains to that 2k3, as well as any old school cocker. Without going TOO far into detail (if that's possible) are there any real markers to avoid? I like interchangeability. I don't mind replacing parts, but I don't want one off proprietary stuff. I see TONS of markers on ebay/CL for well under $400, and deals to be found for under $200 if you look. Just curious what you guys think.
    generally avoid pre2k, mini and evo.

    bolt lengths( pre2k, 2k+, evo)
    banjo bolts(pre2k, 2k+, merlin, mini( also comes in pre2k and 2k+))

    valve sizes (standard and 11/16")
    ivg style(threaded and non threaded(rex dialer))

    not all bodies have threaded feednecks but they can be modded.


    pretty safe to assume anything 2k+is safe from proprietary stuff

  3. #3
    Thanks for the quick reply! ...I don't know how much "a few bucks" for the 2k3 is, but I may give it a go. I just wanna make sure however much it needs, it's a good platform to start with.

  4. #4
    As to what "a few bucks" would mean to me. I have 3 or 4 2k2, 2k3 sitting around that i paid between 20 and 50 dollars for in working condition. The most I would pay for a bone stock cocker that wasn't a limited run or hard to find is $80 maybe $90 if it was perfect.

    Try to stay away from autocockers though, their addicting...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomer89 View Post
    Try to stay away from autocockers though, their addicting...
    Same can be said for Mags man. All the parts are interchangeable - Upgrade the body.. upgrade the valve.. get a new trigger frame.. Ah crap, I have *almost* enough parts to build another mag.. I'd better pick up a rail and complete it, otherwise its just a pile of parts. You know what would be great on this new parts mag.. A new body! Its a vicious cycle.

    As for the OPs question.. I've found from experience that building a cocker from the ground up is a constant search for the smallest stupidest part, which is hard to find but an absolute necessity (like a mini timing rod, holy crap that was an ordeal a couple years ago).

    But if you're just looking to learn, go for a 2k3. They're safe as far as the majority of parts go. And if you really want to learn, and I mean really learn, strip the whole thing down to every last screw and O-ring (ALL of them) and put it back together. Then tune and time it to perfection. It'll take some head scratching but once you've got the mechanics down you'll be good to go.

  6. #6
    And if you really want to learn, and I mean really learn, strip the whole thing down to every last screw and O-ring (ALL of them) and put it back together. Then tune and time it to perfection. It'll take some head scratching but once you've got the mechanics down you'll be good to go.
    Yeah...I wanna learn, lol. I'm a tinkerer. ...and yeah....I'm the take it all apart and put it back together guy! Normally works out ok, but not always the first time!!! I've got a Resurrection, but it shoots so well and has no issues. Hate to tinker with it. ...and as mentioned...if I can find a deal....

    I'd better pick up a rail and complete it, otherwise its just a pile of parts. You know what would be great on this new parts mag.. A new body! Its a vicious cycle.
    Agreed. In fact I AM looking (although not real hard) for a rail. I have the pile of parts you described!LOL ....and I'm also looking for a car or truck without an engine too. I have a 350 I took out a Camaro to drop in a 383. It runs, so naturally the logical thing would be to use it. Gotta find that rail....and that car!

    ...oh and mountain bikes....no different.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abubaca View Post
    ...oh and mountain bikes....no different.
    Oh my god, don't even get me started on mountain bikes! I feel your pain!

    Hey man, if you're a tinkerer (as I am too), do it up, go for the 2k3. It'll be a fun little project. I figure if it's $100 (for example) and you get 10 hours of tinkering and learning, and get a sweet shooter out of it, its a good deal.

  8. #8
    don't buy psycho ballistics stuff. cheapo china stuff that is extremely inconsistent in quality.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by capt spank View Post
    don't buy psycho ballistics stuff. cheapo china stuff that is extremely inconsistent in quality.
    They even need work to make a pump.

  10. #10
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    If you want interchangeability, don't go the trilogy route.


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