will a lvl10 kit not work properly on a SmartValve?

[flampaint]

I was under the impression that a lvl10 kit could be installed on a Classic Valve without issues.
As I wanted to reduce the paint-choppiness inherent to a non-lvl10 equipped valve on my "Splash-Camo-Classic-SmartValved-AR Mag" I installed my lvl10 kit and I simply cannot get it to work. It doesn't leak when aired up but as soon as I pull the trigger it either leaks out air (heavily) down the barrel or doesnt do anything at all (wont cycle)

Three possibilities from what I can tell:
1. I was misinformed on the compatibility of Classics and lvl10 alltogether
2. The SmartValve won't work with a lvl10 (due to the increased volume of the SmartValve maybe? doubt it... but just want to verify)
3. It is in fact compatible and I am doing something wrong. If so, I'd appreciate any ideas on what it could be...

Thanks a lot in advance for any help!

[Nobody]

L10s and classic valves work fine together. So forget that idea.

I d9 n9t knowbhow you set it up, i.e. which carrier and/or if you used any shims. I would make sure that you have all new orings for both the valve and the L10 (you can skip those orings if the L10 kit is brand new). Then you can start to reinstall the L10 kit, making aure that it 8s 8n the correct order and with new orings

[OneSelfLost]

Maybe turn the velocity up a bit? I think lvlx bolts need a lil extra. I'm thinking if the bolt didn't have enough air pressure behind it to overcome the pressure of the spring, it would only pop forward enough to skip the sear and hold the lip down, not allowing the on/off to reset. Could be wrong, just a theory though. Crank it up a turn, see what happens

[vintage]

start with the gold spring and turn the velocity up

[flampaint]

Thanks for all the input which, now that I read it, makes perfect sense...
I'll report back here once I get some air again in order to test it.

[athomas]

If it has enough air force to move the bolt forward it should fire. However, if the oring is too tight, then it may just bump far enough to expose the vent hole and leak down the barrel. It all points to bolt stick due to having a carrier that is too tight. It will need a higher velocity setting too.

[Sandman]

On certain occasions it is possible that the combination of a classic rail and body will not work with a level 10.
If you swap back to your level 7 and it works. Then back to level 10 and it does not. You may have this issue.
It will align slightly off and not allow the bolt to move through the body.
Level 10 alignment is much more critical than level 7 alignment.

If your problem is this, in most cases it is the rail causing the issue.
Hopefully it is not since you have a nice anoed rail.
But it's worth a test to swap it out and see if the problem persists.

[Tunaman]

On certain occasions it is possible that the combination of a classic rail and body will not work with a level 10.
If you swap back to your level 7 and it works. Then back to level 10 and it does not. You may have this issue.
It will align slightly off and not allow the bolt to move through the body.
Level 10 alignment is much more critical than level 7 alignment.

If your problem is this, in most cases it is the rail causing the issue.
Hopefully it is not since you have a nice anoed rail.
But it's worth a test to swap it out and see if the problem persists.

absolutely correct. Always switch back to an AGD factory Rail to see if it will work. I had to break the bad news to quite a few guys over the years that their newly annoed rail is no good.

[Kartan]

does this also apply to the x-valve with an old rail?

[Sandman]

It certainly could if the X-valve is using the level 10 bolt.
It is possible to use the X-valve with a level 7 bolt and the problem could go away.

These are relatively rare problems but alignment issues do happen when mixing parts of unknown age and wear with newer parts.

[zondo]

One other thing to try is a new reg piston. I had an issue with a classic valve and L10 and that fixed it for me.


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[BigEvil]

I have had issues with the pistons on older guns when installing lvl 10's . They wouldn't adjust high enough to cycle without venting. Make sure you are using the smallest spring, make sure the bolt fits into the bore of the barrel without issue, and adjust the velocity high enough to get it to cycle consistently first. Then we can deal with the leak. I have found the classic rails and steel bodies to be much more forgiving than the newer ULE'd to death newer stuff can be.

[BigEvil]

I SPY a Benchmark frame on there... if you have a stick trigger frame try it with that first. Use the correct front grip frame screw!!!!!!!