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Thread: Boo-Yah frame problems

  1. #1
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    Boo-Yah frame problems

    Get a Booyah framed classic automag to fix the other day. Thankfully it came with the special on/off. Threw in a fresh 9v battery. And it worked! For five minutes.

    Then the on/off started leaking. So I replaced o-rings. Then the battery died after 100 shots. So I bought a 9.6v rechargeable battery for it. And nothing. It wouldn't even turn on. (Yes, I'm sure the battery was charged up enough. I tried it in an e-Spyder afterward, and it worked fine.)

    And now, suddenly, the Booyah doesn't want to do anything. After the 9.6v battery did nothing, I threw another fresh 9v in there, and now it won't even turn on. What's really weird, though, is that after I disconnect the battery, if I wait twenty seconds or so, the LCD panel will flash "E-LDC 3.1" or something like that for a moment. Then it's dead again.

    So yeah. I'm really confused. It was working before I tried the 9.6v battery. I mean, not well. But the noid clicked and the screen turned on and I could cycle through modes and fire occasionally. But now it's not doing anything. So did I fry the board somehow? Do the wires sometimes wiggle themselves loose? Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    Never mind. I'm an idiot. After taking a long break, I went back to the frame again, pulled everything out, double-checked the connections, and put everything back together again. Presto, it works. A wire or something must have shaken itself loose from the shooting.

  3. #3
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    Spoke too soon....again. Ran into my workroom to check one thing before leaving for work, and now the frame is dead again.

    This thing is really confusing me. It was working perfectly last night after I double-checked all the wires. I turned it off, left it on the table, but when I went down this morning and tried to turn it on, nothing. The battery still has full charge..... What the **** am I doing wrong?

  4. #4
    Capacitor, replace it.
    High energy solenoids need very good capacitors. They are notorious for going bad on all those frame styles.
    It will act just like you are explaining.
    Typically they will read a bad battery even though it is new. That's the Cap.
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  5. #5
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    The capacitor is the black cylindrical thing between the battery/board and clapper noid, correct? I should be able to order a replacement part easily enough, but how hard are they to swap out? Are we talking splicing wires, or soldering?

  6. #6
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    Caps aren't too bad to replace. Just snip the leads and solder on the new one. BUT watch the polarity.. the arrows on the cap point to the negative lead. It'll go poof if not in the right direction. If you're not comfortable doing it, send it to me, that's what I do for a living.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost View Post
    Caps aren't too bad to replace. Just snip the leads and solder on the new one. BUT watch the polarity.. the arrows on the cap point to the negative lead. It'll go poof if not in the right direction. If you're not comfortable doing it, send it to me, that's what I do for a living.
    Okay...that doesn't seem too hard.

    All the writing on the capacitor has rubbed off, though. Does anyone know what kind I need? Will this work?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kingman-Spyd...UAAOSwd4tUK2as

  8. #8
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    Nah, it's not too hard - you'll be fine. I looked up the booyah and it appears to be a 6800 uF 10V. The one you posted looks great, but might be too long to fit where the booyah cap goes (and awfully expensive for a capacitor)

  9. #9
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  10. #10
    That's it. $1.49 and $3.72 in shipping.
    Don't forget the .99cent insurance...in case if fails...

    Those are the ones we use.

  11. #11
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    Arrow to the negative, ALWAYS to the negative!

  12. #12
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    Well, the capacitor arrived, but it's not gonna work. It's about 1/4 inch too long. *sigh*

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    And here I assumed that all capacitors with the same values would be the same size. Time to go shopping again, and I'll pay more attention to dimensions this time.

  13. #13
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    I have one that should work, what is the rating on the original? The ones I have are 1.075" long

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I have one that should work, what is the rating on the original? The ones I have are 1.075" long
    That should work. I need a rating of 6800uF and 10v.

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