small irritating leak.

[Rockmag]

This is making me a little crazy and Im sure its something simple.. Have a pnuemag with xvalve with rt on/off. It leaks ever so little out the front of the bolt, once in a while a little more. I have replaced all orings and swapped out the on/off. If I apply a small amount of pressure against the seer in the firing direction it seals up. Thoughts? Thank you Ive also changed out the entire level 10 and tried it several times in another marker. The seer is new.

[Tunaman]

This is making me a little crazy and Im sure its something simple.. Have a pnuemag with xvalve with rt on/off. It leaks ever so little out the front of the bolt, once in a while a little more. I have replaced all orings and swapped out the on/off. If I apply a small amount of pressure against the seer in the firing direction it seals up. Thoughts? Thank you Ive also changed out the entire level 10 and tried it several times in another marker. The seer is new.

Do you have any L10 shims in there? If so...take them out. Let us know.

[Rockmag]

No shims, carrier is a little tighter then should be but fires (was trying to rule that out), on/off pin is .7475, am/mm rail. I should probably check if thats the right length.... Using gold bolt spring, pressure on bolt doesnt effect leak..

Looks like pin should be .75, but that .0025 should be well in tolerance. Yes?

[Laku]

Worn sear?

[rawbutter]

If it's leaking out the barrel with your finger off the trigger, it is probably the Level 10 o-ring. Or the pnuemag isn't built right, and the piston is too close to the sear. When the marker is aired up and resting, there should be a tiny gap between the sear and piston rod, about the width of a credit card.

If the piston is okay, it's possible you got a bad level 10 o-ring. It happens. Or it hasn't broken in yet. When you're installing a new o-ring in the level 10, you should start with a carrier that's too small, lube it up, and shoot a few hundred rounds through it to break it in. Then find the right sized carrier for it (biggest one that doesn't leak).

[Rockmag]

Worn sear?

New seer, I have traded out several and I have put the valve in 2 other working markers, am/mm and rtpro, with the same result.

[Rockmag]

If it's leaking out the barrel with your finger off the trigger, it is probably the Level 10 o-ring. Or the pnuemag isn't built right, and the piston is too close to the sear. When the marker is aired up and resting, there should be a tiny gap between the sear and piston rod, about the width of a credit card.

If the piston is okay, it's possible you got a bad level 10 o-ring. It happens. Or it hasn't broken in yet. When you're installing a new o-ring in the level 10, you should start with a carrier that's too small, lube it up, and shoot a few hundred rounds through it to break it in. Then find the right sized carrier for it (biggest one that doesn't leak).

Pnue is right, not touching seer. I will fire it a ton today but I have taken a fully functional lvl10 from another valve, orings and all, and had no change.

[Nobody]

Process of elimination. If you have taken out parts and swapped in a different, working parts and it still leaks, then the leak is in the part that stayed, the pneumatics.

I venture that the pneumatics is pressing onto the on/off, releasing it slightly as to have a leak.

[Rockmag]

for a little more history, this marker was started about 3 years ago by a friend of mine. The valve was new, all parts were new except Luke milled rail and Intelly frame. Parts were sent to one of the guys here that were doing pnues at the time, he milled the frame and put frame parts together. Also installed a ULT in the valve. Friend of mine never finished putting it together. I bought it, finished it. I had this small leak I figured might go away with some brake in, it didnt. So I started with switching the ULT to rt to take away any ULT issues. Changed out the brand new orings, etc.. all of the written above. Have also swapped on/off pins and different rings in top of on/off.

[Rockmag]

Process of elimination. If you have taken out parts and swapped in a different, working parts and it still leaks, then the leak is in the part that stayed, the pneumatics.

I venture that the pneumatics is pressing onto the on/off, releasing it slightly as to have a leak.

There is a gap and if I put slight pressure against the seer in the firing direction it seals up the leak. And I have eliminated the pnues by putting the valve in a non pnue marker.

[Nobody]

There is a gap and if I put slight pressure against the seer in the firing direction it seals up the leak. And I have eliminated the pnues by putting the valve in a non pnue marker.

Its not the valve, its the pneumatics. The pneumatics are slightly releasing at the touch of the trigger. This is not a leak, you just have the trigger rod to close to the trigger. So that when you are holding it, there is a hiss, not a leak.

A leak is where by either holding the trigger, there is air leaking past a seal OR when just airred up and not touching the trigger, there is air leaking past a seal. Hasically, when you are touching the trigger, the weight of your fingers is causing the opening of the valve.

[athomas]

By placing a tiny bit of pressure on the sear, you are pushing the bolt back just a bit, just because of the angle of the sear. That is allowing the level 10 vent hole to go behind the sealing edge of the carrier oring, thus sealing the leak. Too many shims would cause that issue, which is why Tunaman mentioned the shims. It would have made perfect sense, and it would have been my guess as well.

Is the rail bushing in place?

If you push on the back of the valve, does the leak go away?

[Rockmag]

By placing a tiny bit of pressure on the sear, you are pushing the bolt back just a bit, just because of the angle of the sear. That is allowing the level 10 vent hole to go behind the sealing edge of the carrier oring, thus sealing the leak. Too many shims would cause that issue, which is why Tunaman mentioned the shims. It would have made perfect sense, and it would have been my guess as well.

Is the rail bushing in place?

If you push on the back of the valve, does the leak go away?

I completely agree with all that has been said.. Thats whats gotten frustrating. I have not push on the back of the valve, I will give it a try.

[Rockmag]

By placing a tiny bit of pressure on the sear, you are pushing the bolt back just a bit, just because of the angle of the sear. That is allowing the level 10 vent hole to go behind the sealing edge of the carrier oring, thus sealing the leak. Too many shims would cause that issue, which is why Tunaman mentioned the shims. It would have made perfect sense, and it would have been my guess as well.

Is the rail bushing in place?

If you push on the back of the valve, does the leak go away?

Rail bushing is in place.

If I push on the back of the valve the leak gets worse. I do snug the field strip bolt with an allen.

If I push on the bolt with it changes the leak but will not seal it.

I put in another valve and it worked perfect.

[blackdeath1k]

Outside carrier Oring? I assume you have tested multiple power tube orings. But if they were all in the same carrier there is the Oring on the outside of it that I always forget about. Could be seeping air.

Since you have put the valve on other markers And the leak follows the valve. You've ruled everything else out.

[Rockmag]

Alright, I'm gonna start over with the lvl 10 again. Thanks for you input guys

[Rockmag]

Right side bolt ,the original bolt, will not seal up. Left side bolt, whole lvl10 from another valve that worked, sealed up and works with one size smaller carrier which I didnt think to try cuz it worked fine on the other valve.....

[Laku]

Right side bolt is broken. The press fitted stem has come loose and started to work its way out.

[Tunaman]

Send that bolt back to AGD they will replace it.

[Rockmag]

Thanks guys, will do.