RT Classic Issue (didn't think this through all the way)

[Mondoatx]

Luke,

The bolt does look worn and rough in some areas... there is one spot where there is noticeable wear down... It is level 7... so i am going to see what I can do with it as is after I get everything else resolved... then eventually will be going with a Level10... That is the plan anyway... we'll see what the wife says ;-)

I use a magnifying glass to inspect all my AGD valve parts especially orings. As far as the edge of your bolt goes, it will be an inconsistency of some sort, if there's something wrong you will know when you see it.

[vintage]

i've had this o ring problem more times than i can count with 3 or 4 of the rt classics i own. always a pain in the rump.

[blackdeath1k]

Luke,

The bolt does look worn and rough in some areas... there is one spot where there is noticeable wear down... It is level 7... so i am going to see what I can do with it as is after I get everything else resolved... then eventually will be going with a Level10... That is the plan anyway... we'll see what the wife says ;-)

Bad bolt wear can cause un needed wear on a new sear. I'm sure you could find someone's old L7 bolt for cheap. I practically gave all mine away.

[Spider-TW]

Did the best I could... couldn't quite match the angles or lighting...

Let me know if you would like me to post them on the referenced thread...

Also... I don't see a huge difference betw what is posted on that other thread and what I have here... if someone can/does notice the difference spell it out for me.

Thanks all!

Just having pics of a known leaker rail is helpful, even if the difference is hard to see. Thanks!

The chamfer, or inside shoulder looks smaller or a steeper angle on this one. It could be the lighting. [Like the old rail has a 60 degree chamfer and the new one has a 30 degree chamfer]. I'm thinking that the rub mark on the rear side of the rail is just from backing the banjo bolt out while the o-ring is jammed up in the front.

If the rail was actually thicker, that should have shown up on pin lengths, like newer RTs being more reactive than early ones. Anyone notice such a thing?

For the pic record, this one below was my first attempt at improving the shoulder in the banjo hole. The final one looks about the same without the dents (and didn't leak from the sleeve). This is why I'm pretty confident of the problem, but we could use an easier fix for customized RT rails.

[Mondoatx]

Alright,

So waiting on banjo o rings in the mail... a new sear... a level 10 kit... and a 13 inch hose...

Spider,

So that sleeve reduces the diameter of the hole the banjo goes through... and this keeps the middle o ring from coming out of its' groove and getting caught between the rail and the bolt (like what happened in my picture the other night)? Am I understanding that correctly?

Here is the beast so far:





Going to the field tomorrow to pick up a drop for it (hopefully)... put the 68 on today and it was like 20 feet long... couldn't stand the feel of it...

[Laku]

Might want to consider on/off ASA, those old duckbills are PITA to screw the tank on and off. And it will save the threads on your bottle and ASA.

[Spider-TW]

So that sleeve reduces the diameter of the hole the banjo goes through... and this keeps the middle o ring from coming out of its' groove and getting caught between the rail and the bolt (like what happened in my picture the other night)? Am I understanding that correctly?

I think it is the same inside diameter. It mainly raises the id up higher to support the o-ring. I haven't lost the middle o-ring since. It has had some solid play , as well as a bout of level 10 tuning.

[Mondoatx]

Laku,



Happy now?

I like the drop... but the ASA is kind of ugly to me... but I got a great deal on them at the local field today... they have both been on the wall for years...

Also... I know the ergonomics of that hose sucks guys... still waiting on the longer one and am using that one so I could get the gun going this week as things came in the mail (I think the 13 inch hose will be the last thing that gets here).

M

Might want to consider on/off ASA, those old duckbills are PITA to screw the tank on and off. And it will save the threads on your bottle and ASA.

[Laku]

Laku,



Happy now?

I like the drop... but the ASA is kind of ugly to me... but I got a great deal on them at the local field today... they have both been on the wall for years...

Hah, doesn't really affect my happiness, but it might yours.

Anyway if you don't like it there are plenty of options.

[blackdeath1k]

An early heads up. You said you ordered a L10 bolt kit. Sooner or later the HP piston will start seeping air due to the new age L10 bolt system. So the piston will have to be updated. The L10 runs off a higher stationary pressure which causes the pre L10 design pistons to fail
My classic RT made it 2 games I think before it started leaking. My wifes RTP valve made it at least 10 days of all day play that I know of and it was bought used with the L10 already installed.

[athomas]

You should have the higher pressure piston assembly installed if running the level 10. If it leaks, then install the short gold bolt spring until you get a new piston. The short gold spring will allow you to operate at a lower pressure which may not cause the safety release to vent.

[Mondoatx]

Mags do make me happy...

I do really like the way this thing points... the tank sticks out a bit more than my RT pro... but the barrel is a lot shorter... and it just seems to feel more compact... diggin' it... can't wait to get a few games in.

Hah, doesn't really affect my happiness, but it might yours.

Anyway if you don't like it there are plenty of options.

[Mondoatx]

blackdeath and athomas,

Thanks for the heads up gentlemen.

Much appreciated.

[Mondoatx]

Hey guys!

Got the sear and banjo o rings in today! SUCCESS! Fired off maybe 20 dry shots to get oil through it... and maybe 40-50 rounds out back... it shot great... no leaks...

Didn't want to shoot much more because I didn't want to wear down the new sear with the worn L7 bolt...

Hopefully I get the L10 late this week, the new piston, and the longer hose and I can have her tuned by Sunday for playing...

Thanks for everyone's help!!