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Thread: pneumag

  1. #1

    pneumag

    anyone have any how to video on how to make a pneumag

  2. #2
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    There's a lot of help in this thread:

    http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...9-pneumag.html

    But I'm not sure if there's a video anywhere anymore. I know there was at some point, but I can't find it now. There was a big PDF that got circled around too, but I've lost that as well.

  3. #3
    I looked there the links are there but when you go to them the page said removed
    I will still keep looking thanks

  4. #4
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    This is the best animation I've seen to explain how it works.

    http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/anim...eumag_5fps.gif

    If you're using an Intelliframe, all you really need to do is buy (1) a kit from knownothingmags and (2) an LPR. Once the parts are in your hands, you should be able to figure out what they all do.

    This thread also has some good pictures.
    https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...kets-And-More-!!!!!!!!

    This is probably the best one.
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    If you buy a kit, all the parts should be pre-modded for you. The piston should drop into the top of the Intelliframe with little to no filing.

    The basic idea goes something like this:

    1. Mount the piston.

    You want the piston to be positioned so that it's hitting the lowest part of the sear arm (to minimize psi needed to fire the marker). You also want it positioned far enough away from the sear so that when the marker is pressurized, the piston rod and the sear arm aren't quite touching. You need about 1/8 inch clearance. Once the piston is in the right place, you need to drill some holes and tap those holes for some 8-32 set screws to hold the piston in place.

    Oh...you need a tap set, by the way. And a drill.

    2. Drill a hole for the trigger rod.

    The slot that's meant for the trigger rod is (a) too high and (b) too wide. If you try to put your trigger rod there, it will flop around. So, you need to drill another hole just below the slot. Since it needs to be parallel to the frame, that means you have to drill all the way from the front (through the trigger guard, after removing the trigger) or from the back (through the grip). I personally prefer going in through the back, since you can tap and fill the hole afterward with a set screw, so it's hardly noticeable.

    Oh, and a normal drill bit won't be long enough. You'll have to buy a long 1/8 drill bit.

    3. Mount the MSV-2 (the three way valve).

    This part can be a little tricky depending on the inside of your Intelliframe. Most frames have a horizontal bracket for mounting switches, which might or might not work for the MSV. You might have to cut that bracket out with a Dremel cutting wheel (or a hacksaw) in order to fit the MSV. And then you might have to make another mounting bracket for the MSV.

    Once you have all that figured out, though, the rest is easy. Just place the MSV in a spot where the trigger rod can hit the lever, the lower the better. And make sure the MSV is sitting in a place where the lever isn't partially depressed at rest. Otherwise it won't fire correctly. Once it's in the right spot, mount it down with some little screws and nuts.

    4. Add the trigger rod.

    A carbon fiber rod is included with the pneumag kit. Just trim it to the right length and stick it in. But don't cut it with scissors or something like that. It will splinter. A Dremel cutting wheel works best.

    5. Find a place for the LPR.

    There are so many, many different options out there. Just Google "pneumag" and look at all the pictures and decide what you want.

    The easiest thing is to just get a 90* elbow and mount the LPR to the ASA (if your ASA has two different outlets). You can angle the LPR back quite a ways so it's not in your way.

    You can also mount the LPR to the VASA, but you need a 1/8 NPT tap to do that. Most VASAs don't have a forward port.

    5. Hook up all the LP hoses.

    Very simple. Hose #1 comes out of the LPR and into the "in" port on the MSV (it's labeled). Then hose #2 comes out the MSV and into the back of the piston. There should be enough hose and fittings in the kit for this to work.

    6. Tune the trigger.

    Assemble everything, back the LPR all the way out, add air, and try the trigger. Nothing will happen at first, but as you increase the LPR pressure, eventually the marker will fire. You basically want the LPR set as low as possible where it fires the marker reliably.

    And that's it.

    I would go a little bit farther, personally. If you add some trigger stops, you can make the travel travel very short, which helps with short stroking. You can also add an QEV to help with that. But I would get the pneumag up and running before thinking about any of that.



    OR.....

    You can buy one of Luke's T-Rex engines. You'll still have to file out the inside of the Intelliframe to make it fit, I think, but after that you only need a few set screws to hold it in place. You don't have to drill trigger rod holes or remove brackets. And trigger stroke is shorter than the MSV-2.

    But that's not nearly as fun.
    Last edited by rawbutter; 02-23-2017 at 11:48 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rawbutter View Post
    5. Hook up all the LP hoses.

    Very simple. Hose #1 comes out of the LPR and into the "in" port on the MSV (it's labeled). Then hose #2 comes out the MSV and into the back of the piston. There should be enough hose and fittings in the kit for this to work.
    People tend to forget about the physical location of air lines. Luke has made much of that easier in his setup. Getting air to and from the LPR is an important (critical) layout decision. Look for the LPR and its connections in the various pics.

  6. #6
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    Very true. You want the hoses to be as short as possible, and positioned in a way that they won't kink or get pinched. There are many right ways and wrong ways to do this.

    I think I said this before in the previous thread, but it bears repeating. If you just want a pneumag for the mechanical advantage, then buy something ready-made, or pay someone else $50 to do it (like me, or Spider, or Cyberrave, or Loguzzzzzz......there are so many here who can do it for you). Chances are, you're not going to get it right on your first try, and you're gonna have to spend $50 on tools anyway, so you're really not saving any money doing it yourself.

    BUT, if you want the challenge and fun of building something (and if you want an excuse to buy more tools), then do it yourself. Just be prepared to really take your time. Study all the pictures you can find. Ask questions. Make sure you know exactly what you're doing before you start drilling holes in things.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rawbutter View Post
    OR.....

    You can buy one of Luke's T-Rex engines. You'll still have to file out the inside of the Intelliframe to make it fit, I think, but after that you only need a few set screws to hold it in place. You don't have to drill trigger rod holes or remove brackets. And trigger stroke is shorter than the MSV-2.

    But that's not nearly as fun.
    The T-Rex was never intended to be a "customer install" as you suggest above, it's necessary to have a correctly machined frame and a properly located mounting bracket. The stroke of the piston is short, therefore the position of the T-Rex is critical to prevent over stroke and ejecting the ram.

  8. #8
    Thank you all I will keep all you info in mind
    I will lay it out before I drill or cut
    I like a good challenge and the personal gratification

  9. #9
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    Easier to just buy a frame and T-Rex from Luke.



  10. #10
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    Luke's Custom will not steer you wrong.

  11. #11
    nor will the other honest members here.

  12. #12
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  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by going_home View Post

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