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Thread: Help educate me on a new build

  1. #1

    Help educate me on a new build

    Looking for some advise on building a new mag. I have my old classic that I want to remain that way. Just need to know if the bodies, rails and valves are compatible.
    Also can I have a single trigger to rt or do u need the leverage of the double?
    Do I need the level 10 bolt? Does it add anything other than non ball chop?
    Sorry just a little confused about the rt, retro, ule. I'm been out of the game for a long time. Any straight forward help is much appreciated. Don't need any contradicting facts that confuse me more haha. Thanks


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  2. #2
    Join Date
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    You can use a single trigger with an RT valve, no problem. It's harder to RT, obviously, but otherwise it works fine.

    Level 10 adds nothing to your Automag except less ball chops. And it lowers your efficiency slightly. So if you don't shoot fast, you can probably get away without it. (Having a force-feeding loader helps a lot. I played with a Halo and Level 7 for years....never had any chops because the Halo fed way faster than I could shoot.)

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Help educate me on a new build

    Quote Originally Posted by boddah View Post
    Just need to know if the bodies, rails and valves are compatible.
    You can mix pretty much everything except classic RT body, valve and rail. Classic RT is special case, almost everything else is interchangeable.

    Quote Originally Posted by boddah View Post
    Also can I have a single trigger to rt or do u need the leverage of the double?
    No. Single trigger frames are fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by boddah View Post
    Do I need the level 10 bolt? Does it add anything other than non ball chop?
    You don't need it, but it's really nice to have. It just prevents ball chops.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the replies!! So can I pick up a classic gun for cheap and slowly mod it with rails bodies, frames? Can I rt mod the classic valve?


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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by boddah View Post
    Thanks for the replies!! So can I pick up a classic gun for cheap and slowly mod it with rails bodies, frames?
    Yep. That's common way for mags to multiply.

    Quote Originally Posted by boddah View Post
    Can I rt mod the classic valve?
    No. You can add rt on/off for lighter trigger pull, but how the valve functions can't be changed.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Laku View Post
    Yep. That's common way for mags to multiply.



    No. You can add rt on/off for lighter trigger pull, but how the valve functions can't be changed.
    So what will I be missing? The actual rt trigger pull?


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  7. #7
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    You'll be missing the reactivity and ability shoot up to 26 bps without shoot out.

    Also you can't use the ULT on/off (almost electro light trigger pull) that you could on x-valve and later models of rt pro.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Laku View Post
    You'll be missing the reactivity and ability shoot up to 26 bps without shoot out.

    Also you can't use the ULT on/off (almost electro light trigger pull) that you could on x-valve and later models of rt pro.
    Hmmm ok so I should be looking for x valve or rt valve or both? I would love to shoot the rt with ult trigger!


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by boddah View Post
    Hmmm ok so I should be looking for x valve or rt valve or both? I would love to shoot the rt with ult trigger!
    Either or. If going for RT pro, just make sure it has space for two o-rings (small inside larger like in classic valve) at the bottom of the hole for on/off.

  10. #10
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    An R/T on/off makes for a very nice trigger pull with a classic valve (not quite electro-light, but crispy), but you won't get the rate of fire the R/T valve is capable of.
    I've used my main Mag for many a year with a revvy and without a Level 10 bolt, and my issues are far between. I don't shoot a lot of rapid fire, though, and I use the cheap paint. Mags aren't nice to paint.
    If you want the rate of fire that the R/T is capable of, and be able to use any paint, then an R/T with the Level 10 is the way to go! Be prepared to invest in a tank with a high-output regulator if that's your preference. They like lotsa psi's.
    If you just want to widen your paint options, the Level 10 is a great thing to add to any valve.
    As has been stated, the R/T Classic is a horse of its own color. They're easily identified as the ones with the air lines going into the rails. The thumbscrew becomes a banjo bolt, air passes through it into the valve, and can sometimes be a bugger to assemble without leaks.
    Co2 is not an option with anything other than a classic valve (I wouldn't recommend it for any valve just because I don't like it, but it's non-optional, period, with the X or R/T valves). I don't know if the Level 10 bolt goes both ways.
    The R/T and X-valves use the same rebuild kit, the big difference being that the X is all aluminum. It is a big difference in weight when you're holding them both together!

  11. #11
    Thanks for the help


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  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Cheaper to watch for an inexpensive used RT Pro ULE than buying parts upgrading.



  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by going_home View Post
    Cheaper to watch for an inexpensive used RT Pro ULE than buying parts upgrading.


    Ya that's what I'm thinking.... anyone wanna sell a carbon fibre dust black one haha


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