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Thread: All the Z's Mag

  1. #1

    All the Z's Mag

    I was putting together a mag yesterday from my parts bin. Decided to marry up a Z-Frame to a Galactic Z-body. By shear luck the valve I grabbed had the Galactic Z on/off (thanks to you guys on Facebook for figuring that out for me).

    Unfortunately, my backspin device is not fully intact. The thumb screw fell apart on the first twist after I bought it. The skid plate is missing. So it just has a screw I put on there and the rubber/resin part that underlies the skid plate. Oddly, it works like that, but I doubt it will for long.

    Pretty much every Z-Body I see for sale is "without skid plate". Does anyone have one for sale, and/or would any of our house machinists/3D print guys like to reverse engineer it? It's small market, but I'm fairly certain close to 100% of Z-Body owners need this.

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  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Wouldn't they need the actual plate in hand to do that ?

    The part you are missing....

    Having had one to tinker with years ago I found the Apex barrel works better and is less trouble.

  3. #3
    skid plate to make the ball backspin?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by going_home View Post
    Wouldn't they need the actual plate in hand to do that ?

    The part you are missing....

    Having had one to tinker with years ago I found the Apex barrel works better and is less trouble.
    Yes, they wouldn't be able to model it off of mine. I don't really think it's about which one works better so much as getting the Z-Bodies to work at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by KNM
    skid plate to make the ball backspin?
    Yes

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    8,039
    Yeah, the backspin on the Galactic Z bodies was created by the ball traveling under a rubber bumper that caused the top of the ball to rub on it. The body was best used with large bore barrels so that friction was minimized allowing the ball spin to continue down the length of the barrel as it accelerated. The downside of the galactic body was that it couldn't be used with brittle paint because it could easily break on the bumper.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #6
    I could try to make you one with my soft rubber
    But need the body for fitment and spec

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    I could try to make you one with my soft rubber
    But need the body for fitment and spec
    I think what he's looking for is the top plate and the tension knob.

    Maybe he needs the nubbin and spring also....

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    I could try to make you one with my soft rubber
    But need the body for fitment and spec
    Happy to provide it but...

    Quote Originally Posted by going_home
    I think what he's looking for is the top plate and the tension knob.

    Maybe he needs the nubbin and spring also....
    I'm not exactly sure what is missing. There is definitely no spring in my assembly, but I'm assuming that and the thumb screw have equivalent off the shelf components. I'm guessing that there is supposed to be something between the screw and where the rubber nubbin goes. If so, I don't have that either. Does anyone have an exploded view of this thing?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Patron God of Pirates View Post
    Happy to provide it but...



    I'm not exactly sure what is missing. There is definitely no spring in my assembly, but I'm assuming that and the thumb screw have equivalent off the shelf components. I'm guessing that there is supposed to be something between the screw and where the rubber nubbin goes. If so, I don't have that either. Does anyone have an exploded view of this thing?
    best I can find
    http://s53.photobucket.com/user/Dark...50096.jpg.html

    I know what you need if you are missing it.
    thumb screw , plate , setscrew and nubbin would be easy to make/print

    its all about testing the nubbin I make.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    best I can find
    http://s53.photobucket.com/user/Dark...50096.jpg.html

    I know what you need if you are missing it.
    thumb screw , plate , setscrew and nubbin would be easy to make/print

    its all about testing the nubbin I make.
    I'm happy to send you the whole marker to test if you're interested. From what I can find online i think there is supposed to be a plate between the base of the thumb screw and the rubber "membrane". I gather there is also supposed to be a spring to act as a tensor to keep the thumb screw in place. Both of these are missing from mine. As is I can dial the screw straight into the membrane. This has the desired effect but without the plate I don't expect the rubber will last long.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Patron God of Pirates View Post
    I'm happy to send you the whole marker to test if you're interested. From what I can find online i think there is supposed to be a plate between the base of the thumb screw and the rubber "membrane". I gather there is also supposed to be a spring to act as a tensor to keep the thumb screw in place. Both of these are missing from mine. As is I can dial the screw straight into the membrane. This has the desired effect but without the plate I don't expect the rubber will last long.
    can you throw a picture up of everything you have?

  12. #12
    Sure. I'll take it apart and post pics when I get home tonight

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Patron God of Pirates View Post
    Sure. I'll take it apart and post pics when I get home tonight
    Ok cool

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Adjustable cover:
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    Spin Rubber bumper:
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    Walker
    O.F.P.P.A. - OLD FARTS PAINTBALL PLAYERS ASSOCIATION
    When you wrap-up the day with beer and Bengay.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Washington State
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    Click for animation.....

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    Walker

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    Washington State
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    380
    IT IS IMPORTANT TO READ THROUGH THIS SHEET BEFORE INSTALLING THE Z-BODY
     
    CONGRATULATIONS!!! This is the most advanced and revolutionary upgrade available
    for the Automag family of paint game markers.
     
    Wear proper eye protection when installing or disassembling any paint game marker.
     
    INSTALLATION
    Installation is very simple but here is a brief overview of what to do.

    1.Be sure you have read the orignal owners manual for your marker to ensure you know the proper
    way to disassemble your markers.
    2.Remove any air source and any loader from the marker that may be attached
    3.Disassemble your marker by removing the AIR Valve, the Trigger Frame and Body Rail.
    4.Reassemble, your marker replacing the Z-BODY for the original body.

     
    MAXIMIZING RANGE
    The Z-BODY is designed to put a backspin on the ball. This causes the ball to fly straighter and further than anything
    else on the market GalacticSystemz Z-BODY allows you to adjust the amount of backspin on the ball from no spin to so much
    spin that the ball will actually climb in the air. ALL this is easily done by turning the dial on top of the body.
    Turn the dial counterclockwise to decrease the backspin.

    Turn the dial clockwise to increase the backspin. Ideally you want the ball to fly with a flat trajectory without having to arc the gun.
    Turning the dial too much will cause the ball to climb. Though this is a good trick it is not recommended as adjusting the dial clockwise too
    much can damage the pantented system.

    We are not responsible for any damage done to the Z-BODY by over adjusting the dial.
     
    IMPORTANT
    It is known that turning the dial clockwise too much will damage the Z-BODY. We do not warranty any Z-BODY damaged in this way.
    DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE DIAL!!! Only adjust the dial so the balls fly on a flat trajectory.
    We will not warranty any body that dameged in this way or with any after market modifications done it.
     
    RECOMMECDATIONS FOR ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE
    A large bore barrel is a must. If the barrel is too tight you will notice the balls are very inaccurate and the range is not that much better.
    With a proper large bore barrel the balls will reach 80 yards easily and accuracy will amazing.
    The dial apparatus will need to be cleaned from time to time. Take a cue tip or paper towel with alcohol and rube the orange tip inside the body.
    This will remove any oil, dirt or grime from the tip.
    Quality of paintballs is important. Through our tests Proball, Powerball and Nelson performed excellent but Proball Platinum was the best.
    you want to make sure the balls you are using are clean and free from oil and residue by cleaning them in acetone, paint thinner or denatured alcohol.

  17. #17
    Thanks Walker. Definitely missing the plate on top of the bumper. My "bumper" is more of a semi solid cracking ooze.

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  18. #18
    Oh ok. Yeah you need the rubber piece. You can go with a spring but the pressure from the rubber piece should help with the score backing out.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    Oh ok. Yeah you need the rubber piece. You can go with a spring but the pressure from the rubber piece should help with the score backing out.
    So what do you think? Want to take a swing at it?

  20. #20
    Yeah sure

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  21. #21
    Cool. PM me your addy and I'll send you the marker.

  22. #22
    got it

  23. #23
    i see you have everything you need. but the backspin rubber is on its last leg.
    im going to remove it and get to making a proto of it,
    ill go from there if thats cool.

    i see you have a buddy of mines adapter for the feedneck.
    its nice. the quality they make it from is better than i thought.
    props to the company that does this for people

    ill have my machines pumping parts out whenever people need them as needed.

  24. #24
    Of course, thanks. I'm looking forward to it.

  25. #25
    i got the exact part printed. im going to mess with getting the settings dialed in to print it in my flex materials, and see what the best way to print this part is.
    things are looking good.

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