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Thread: Level 10: The Gold Spring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    782

    Level 10: The Gold Spring

    I recently had a chance to tinker with my X-mag and Automag (also with X-Valve). Just for kicks, I wanted to see how gentle I could get the Level 10s to function. I kind of ended up going the other way.

    I was using Valken Grafitti paint at 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 54% relative humidity that was breaking just fine on opponents two days before; it was stored appropriately since last use. Using no shims and the largest carrier that wouldn't leak, I got each marker shooting at 280fps with red springs. I then tipped the marker upside down and used a tank thread saver in the feed neck to position the paint in the chamber such that the bolt would hit on the seam. I was very surprised that both markers could hit the paint 10 times and still shoot them without the paintballs breaking down the barrel. I then switched to the gold springs in both markers, re-chrono'ed to 280fps, and repeated the test. The gold spring worked just as well.

    Surely, this will vary with different paints, different environmental conditions, etc., but I think it's a quick (and hopefully, not dirty) method of quickly "tuning" a Level 10 to your existing paint, keeping the marker as reliable and efficient as possible.
    Last of the Salzburg Clan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Good info there. I've had no issue using the gold spring for level 10 use either. The red is just for ideal tuning, but gold gets you so close that it shouldn't matter for most paint.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    DeWitt, MI
    Posts
    782
    Truth be told, I can't remember a time I've heard the Level 10 stop on a ball in a game, since I switched from a Revy to a Halo in 2002-ish. But I don't RT with with my mech Mag, and the X-mag has ACE and is also set up not to RT in mech mode. I'll get ball breaks down the barrel occasionally, but that's either bad paint or me short-stroking one partially down the barrel with the next shot breaking both.

    I do remember having to tune the Level 10 quite a bit before the Halo, but that was before the newer method of tuning the Level 10 became known. I still remember the frustration of intermittent bolt stick during games, because back then, using tighter carriers was thought to be a way to further lighten the impact on the ball. I've still got the clipped silver spring in my tool kit that I ran back then with tight carriers. Obviously, it was a moving target trying to get an overly tight carrier to work in various conditions (environmental, marker cleanliness, etc.), and we know better now.

    Anyway, I'm re-examining this, as I may start using a gravity feed more often.

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