Building auto response trigger

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

Has anyone attempted to build one and have any advice on starting this project?

https://m.imgur.com/a/BkqL3

[captian pinky]

why not just buy one?

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

why not just buy one?

Seriously though, where would I buy one?

[captian pinky]

Seriously though, where would I buy one?

I sent you a pm when you posted you were looking for one. I have one.

[Tunaman]

You are missing the linkage only...not too hard to fabricate.

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

You are missing the linkage only...not too hard to fabricate.

The only material at my disposal comes in the form of old pot metal trigger frames... i have an idea.

[Pyrate Jim]

What are they worth?
Digging through old stuff today I found I have two.

[tonyd]

have a old school but mag done up back in the day looking to sell it . hit me up red splash

[Menace_AO]

have a old school but mag done up back in the day looking to sell it . hit me up red splash

Wrong thread, friend.

[docshooter]

I had an auto response years ago. At the time, I had access to aluminum and a machine shop, so I fabricated several linkages. I have 3 linkages available for sale, including trigger, L-linkage, and pins. I will also include an aluminum "T" that can be fit into the groove in the top of the frame to make your marker fire semi-auto only. The "T" blocks will require filing for a custom fit (and a short, crisp trigger pull).

If anyone is interested, pm me for pictures. Be advised that these require an auto response frame to attach the spring to make the trigger go forward after it has been pulled. I do not have springs, so you will have to find your own spring.

Because I sold my old frame (like a fool), I had to buy a new one. I just bought captian pinky's frame/assembly, so it is no longer available.

[docshooter]

The only material at my disposal comes in the form of old pot metal trigger frames... i have an idea.

Note that the auto response trigger is different (longer in the rear) than standard .45 frame triggers.

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

Note that the auto response trigger is different (longer in the rear) than standard .45 frame triggers.

Ended up cheating and ordering the internal parts from Forest at PTP.

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

Luke, before you say anything. I had nothing to do with the spraypaint on your rail.

https://imgur.com/a/6qPwG

[SuiciDal Sn Y p ER]

Has anyone tried a AR trigger on a RT rail or is everyone waiting for a fail video?

[Nobody]

Has anyone tried a AR trigger on a RT rail or is everyone waiting for a fail video?

A rail is a rail. As long as it is standard, then the parts will swap over. Welcome to 90s tech of todays modularity.

[cougar20th]

I have pictures of the trigger assembly out of the frame if you need it for reference

[Walking Stick]

I know you already got parts from Forrest at PTP but here's an old G3PB Mag project from back in the day that I saved on my computer - copied and pasted. (Well, that was a bit tedious.) It might be of some knowledge or use.


VVVVV




Ok, I'm showing a closeup of this frame since I am constantly being asked "what is it?" It's an old Auto-Response that is no longer made. It's original intention was that it allowed the player to fire twice with one pull of the trigger. Once on the pull, and once on the release. If you look closely, you'll notice that something is missing - yep, no trigger rod.

This frames utilizes a cam-type mechanism that about doubles the travel rate of the Mag's on/off valve. It also makes the pull stiffer but it will give you an insanely short trigger pull if you can find one. Also, the action is so quick that I can safely say it is almost impossible to short stroke the trigger. No kidding. The piece you see jutting out the frame is a trigger stop that I installed. This does two things; it prevents the mechanism from firing twice per pull and you can also dial this to about whatever trigger pull length you desire. The length you see is my preference. It can be much, much shorter than it is. I cut the guard for the double trigger and added the stop. No bleed on a slow pull either....incredible if you don't mind the pull being stiffer than normal. Yes, other things can be done to lighten the pull to help this out. Z-Valves often make the pull extremely light. In my case the Mag is now sporting a Retro-Valve so it's basically a mini RT that never (almost) breaks paint and cannot be short stroked. If at all possible to locate, it makes a really great upgrade in my opinion. Sorry, but I have no clue as to where you can find one of these frames .

New Frame Mods



Photo (Left) shows the Benchmark Double Trigger Frame in Chrome. These things always have tons of excess side-to-side slop in their triggers. We'll get to this. Rear take-up (over travel) is horrible also. The Diamond Lab frames are technically much "tighter". The overall quality edge dips slightly in BM's favor; usually only if you wish to have something other than standard black anodize.

Since this frame has a guard, it is often a chore to install the usual over-travel set-screw behind the trigger. Many years ago I would drill a hole through the rear of the frame in order to could get an aligned hole to tap just behind the trigger to install the stop screw in. On frames with the guards removed it's a simple task to just drill and tap the hole - similar to the frame shown at the top of this page. Not so when you have a trigger guard in your way.



Photo (Above) shows the area I now use to install trigger stops on frames with guards. Since drilling and tapping a hole with a slot already in existence can be really "fun", you need to be really careful with this - especially when tapping the threads for the stop.



Photo (Right) shows the finished project. Drill and tap size will vary with what is used for the stop. In this case it's the adjuster from an old stock AutoCocker. Hex plugs also work great. They require a 1/8" NPT thread, whereas the adjuster used is a 3/8-24. Screw the adjuster so the top surface is flush with the top of the frame or slightly below, as to not interfere with the body rail when re-assembling.

The top of the trigger will hit the bottom of the stop, acting to prevent trigger over-travel. Adjustment is made by either tightening the plug further into the frame or by grinding the plug so that it's thinner. When drilling the pilot hole for the tap, be sure and not drill all the way through the trigger slot into the guard opening. It won't affect the operation but it would look rather horrible.....This method certainly isn't as easy to adjust as the version on the original cut frame but once it's set, there should be no need to alter it anyway.

Also makes for a really clean looking installation. You have to be careful since you usually wind up cutting into the safety spring hole. To date, this has not been a problem....





(Above-Left) A hole for the sear spring has to be added. This mode doesn't just apply to a Mag with an AutoResponse Frame. We used to add these to stock Mag Sears also. Some players like the more "tactile" feel the return spring provides.
(Above-Right) Shows assembled frame with return spring in place.





(Above-Left) Is a photo of a stock Mag Sear.
(Above-Right) Shows what the "AutoResponse" Mag Sear and Linkage looks like installed in the Body Rail.

I almost forgot. If you should ever happen to get one of the AutoResponse frames and wish to swap it's guts over to another frame, some internal milling is also required to clear the linkage arm.....At least I have a guard (just in case) and a positive safety, other than the slidecheck (just in case).....